Make your own Touch ID Button

TouchID-Keyboard-Components.md

Tools Needed

• iFixit iOpener Set
• T4 Screwdriver
• T3 Screwdriver

Steps

1. Soften adhesive using iOpener

2. After about 60~90 seconds, use Opening Picks (or a slot screwdriver that's thin enough to fit) to pry open the back cover from upper right corner

3. Apply more forces to completely remove the back cover

4. Disconnect the battery

5. Remove the screws (T4) that keeping the black plate attached to the frame and remove the black plate

6. Disconnect all 3 connectors from the logic board and take out the logic board from the Keyboard frame

7. Remove the Lightning connector (T3)

8. Remove the power switch from upper left corner (T3)

9. Carefully remove the sticker(?) from the connector and disconnect Touch ID sensor from the connector

10. Unscrew the mounting screws around the Touch ID sensor (T3), and remove the Touch ID sensor

11. Carefully remove the flex cable used to connect Touch ID sensor

Now you have all the parts to put together a standalone Touch ID device for your Apple silicon Mac.

After connecting the Lightning connector and Touch ID sensor back to the logic board, you can pair the Touch ID sensor with your Mac under System Preferences.

If the pairing step doesn't appear when you go to Touch ID settings -> add a new fingerprint, make sure the Touch ID sensor is correctly connected and try power cycle the Touch ID device.

Just wanted to note that I was able to successfully create a free-standing touchID that works with my home and work M1 MacBook Pros. Some notes:

Yeah, it is a giant PITA to get the glued-on bottom panel off the keyboard. I used the iFixit iOpener heating pad to soften the glue, and started out trying to shove the big guitar picks into the seam, but the picks just weren't stiff enough, and were too small/hard to grip to generate enough force to shove them in.

I eventually used a heavy-duty X-acto blade in a #2 Handle very carefully to get started, and inserted guitar picks behind it as I went. Pretty much ruined the blade as it is now covered with sticky glue, but it did its job. Cut away from you and keep your fingers well clear. Take it slow.

Once I got enough of the edge separated to slip some fingers in the space, it just became a matter of brute-forcing the back away from the metal frame of the keyboard case.

I did not have to remove the sticker/tape and disconnect the touchID sensor cable from the longer ribbon cable as in step 9. Just leave it taped and connected, peel it up very carefully, and feed the whole length carefully out the top of the keyboard. I used a spudger to start lifting the cable from the loose (circuit-board) end, and to gently pry off the tiny inline circuit board that is glued to the frame just to the left of that taped connector. Go slow and be gentle, these ribbon cables are very delicate and easy to rip. Ask me how I know.

I used Snazzy Lab's wired enclosure. It looks clean and unobtrusive. I kind of would have preferred not to crazy-glue the sensor in to the enclosure in case I change my mind later, but hey "just glue it" appears to be the Apple motto. I found that I couldn't get the lightning port to be really secure using the melted-pin method as designed, so I also used some crazy glue to secure it to the tab above it. As we like to say in the Midwest, "That ain't going anywhere." I will probably add some small rubber feet to keep it from sliding around on the desk.

I already had fingerprints registered on my MacBook Pro with the built-in sensor, and the keyboardless sensor Just Worked™ without any re-registration. I tested before I glued things down of course.

As the ungluing problem seems to be significant, I can share something that worked like a charm.

Putting the keyboard on the heated 3D printer bed.

Large heating area, fully customizable temperature.

I've had no issues with the lightning connector on two of these, but I cannot get either of them to work wireless via Bluetooth.

For someone who has successfully accomplished wireless, I have a few questions:

1. you do not need the power switch and connector (and prior position does not matter),

2. you do not need anything from the keyboard ribbon cable (and did not short any of those lines for power), and

3. you did not need to connect a new antenna (just using the board itself)?

The behavior I am seeing is that if I connect via lightning then the battery will charge, but when I disconnect the cable it does not show up in Bluetooth and the battery depletes very quickly. But given I am seeing this on both, I do not expect a simple cable connection error.

Answering my own questions for the benefit of the community:

1. I did not need the power switch -- it's "always on" for me even without the switch parts connected.
2. No, I did not need anything from the keyboard ribbon cable.
3. The antenna appears to be the top right of the keyboard near the rubber strip. When you remove the board, it ends up just being a little metal stub - but that still has surprisingly good range without adding an external antenna wire.

In terms of my actual connectivity and battery issue...

The glue was a huge pain, so I used WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner Spray to loosen the glue instead of heat/pressure. FWIW, this worked great - I didn't heat the board nor had to do much prying like the YT videos. While that spay appears safe for the electronics, I believe it damaged the batteries in both. I replaced one battery today and the wireless TouchID is now working great!

Incidentally, you can use wireless Bluetooth (without any battery) by just using a USB power cable if you don't want to give up a USB port on the Mac. That seems obvious in hindsight, but I hadn't considered it originally since you need to actually connect to pair first.

The little round shiny thing on the traces from the built-in antenna is a micro-coaxial connector that could probably be used to connect an external bluetooth antenna.

Brilliant! I hadn't noticed that little detail.

As the ungluing problem seems to be significant, I can share something that worked like a charm.

Putting the keyboard on the heated 3D printer bed.

Large heating area, fully customizable temperature.

What temp did you end up going with? (Hard to tell, looks like 65C?)

What temp did you end up going with? (Hard to tell, looks like 65C?)

70 C

FWIW the glue wasn't too bad for me, I used a cheap heatgun from Amazon, blasted it around the edges and worked my way around the perimeter with some guitar picks.

• the battery has a pull-tab adhesive, so you don't need to pry it out (like I did)

This was gold. Thanks!

I managed to tear the ribbon cable between the mainboard and the touchID sensor. Anyone found a replacement?

I just did the same... still searching

Anyone have luck finding one or a workaround?