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Hacking the Rectangular Starlink Dishy Cable
@oetkb
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oetkb commented May 3, 2022

How long did your order take to ship?

Two months.

@MikeRowand
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MikeRowand commented May 6, 2022

What connector did you use to make that up? That setup would work perfectly for my needs, but I haven't yet found a good connector + panel mount combo for it.

@oetkb
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oetkb commented May 6, 2022

What connector...

Neutrik NE8FDY-C6 and NE8MC6. I'm using them with a travel trailer and I repurposed an existing port (I made the round, aluminum plate inwhich the panel-mount connector sits):

Outside_port_cropped

@MikeRowand
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MikeRowand commented May 6, 2022

Neutrik NE8FDY-C6 and NE8MC6. I'm using them with a travel trailer and I repurposed an existing port (I made the round, aluminum plate inwhich the panel-mount connector sits):

Thank you for the part numbers - knowing the right search terms is the key to solving many problems. :-)

Reusing the existing port is a nice touch to keep it weathertight when not in use - it looks downright professional!

I'm looking to do something similar in a motorhome so I can easily mount the antenna externally, disconnect and pack up for travel, and keep the Starlink router + ethernet adaptor inside the coach. In my case I have a utility entry bay (power, cable, water, and wired ethernet) with a bottom entry for everything that can easily accommodate one more cable and have plenty of room to mount the panel jack.

With this figured out, my only remaining problems are fishing cables into the coach and deciding how to mount the Starlink router inside the coach near my cellular/wifi router...

@trekkergreg
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trekkergreg commented May 23, 2022

Hello folks - I need to shorten a cable to about 20'. Can I take a new 75' cable cut our 55' and solder the end back to the cable or is there a better coupling idea that is better and maybe even easier?

@oetkb
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oetkb commented May 25, 2022

Hello folks - I need to shorten a cable to about 20'. Can I take a new 75' cable cut our 55' and solder the end back to the cable or is there a better coupling idea that is better and maybe even easier?

While soldering might work it isn't considered appropriate for twisted pair wiring and can (probably will) cause all sorts of really-hard-to-diagnose problems.

Search for the following

cat5e shielded 110 punch down junction box

That can be used without special tools (although the right punch down tool makes it much easier).

Alternatively you can get a shielded inline coupler and a use two shielded, RJ45 connectors. However, the RJ45 connectors require a special tool (which tool depends on exactly which connector type you get).

@trekkergreg
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trekkergreg commented May 25, 2022

@trekkergreg
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trekkergreg commented May 25, 2022

This is my first post and reply and am trying it on my iPhone so hope it goes through. What I am trying to do is make a stationary cable with the right ends for my rv. I plan to keep a 75’ cable in the event I need to put the dish elsewhere due to tree or other coverage. I can mount a stationary pole on the stairs and run the cable through a roof gland and over to the modem. What do you think the best solution would be for chopping out 50’ of the center of a Starlink cable? Don’t want to keep 50’ of coiled cable inside the rv. Appreciate your inputs and Thank you!!!

@MooreDoing
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MooreDoing commented May 25, 2022

This is my first post and reply and am trying it on my iPhone so hope it goes through. What I am trying to do is make a stationary cable with the right ends for my rv. I plan to keep a 75’ cable in the event I need to put the dish elsewhere due to tree or other coverage. I can mount a stationary pole on the stairs and run the cable through a roof gland and over to the modem. What do you think the best solution would be for chopping out 50’ of the center of a Starlink cable? Don’t want to keep 50’ of coiled cable inside the rv. Appreciate your inputs and Thank you!!!

Hello,
I had a somewhat similar goal with my camper van and if you’re interested to see how I solved it, check out my YouTube vid. https://youtu.be/UCimJixTxTI

I’m not a professional YouTuber so don’t expect cool music or cute ladies in short shorts 😋

I purchased an extra cable for the times I might want to remove starlink. It’s discussed in the vid.

@trekkergreg
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trekkergreg commented May 25, 2022

Great - I'll check it out. Thanks!!

@SteveDDavis
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SteveDDavis commented May 29, 2022

I am putting a through the wall connector in my racing trailer (link attached). SMART Plug makes a high quality Ethernet port for that purpose. I will have a talented cable builder cut my StarLink cable and put male Ethernet plugs on each end, making taking down and stowing the antenna a doable and easy task.

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Power-Inlets/SmartPlug/SM38FR.html

@trekkergreg
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trekkergreg commented May 31, 2022

Nice plug. I can actually route the cable into a roof gland but not with the proprietary waterproof end do not really want 50 extra feet of cable spooled under the modem. Everyone I speak to talks about the ethernet adapter after the cable is cut but that introduces 2 connections plus the coupling. No one is hip on soldering and shrink tube. Hmmm. Thanks for the info!

@khaleelashraf
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khaleelashraf commented Jun 1, 2022

Hello, amateur here; excellent article though many things above my level of understanding. I have a simple question: I have a 75 and 150 cable, both from Starlinks and original. I already have installed the router using 75. I can place the router in a better position inside the home (wider range WiFi within the home) if I change to 150.
My question is = would using 150 instead of 75 weaken the signal reaching the router? If so would it be better to use a Mesh network to increase range rather than trying to re position router ? Thanks in advance to all experts here

@tuckdog
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tuckdog commented Jun 13, 2022

Thanks for the detailed info…would like a long term report of your stability at 52v PoE ejection after the SL stock router. I need to run the same setup for about 270’ from house to dishy with shielded cat6 direct burial. Have 52v power supply and DC PoE injector in the way from amazon. Tried directly from SL router and had intermittent reboots for low voltage.

@jesuschris
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jesuschris commented Jul 14, 2022

@darconeous thanks for the really awesome write-up here! It's already proven very helpful, but had one more q. Am I correct in understanding that, if I use a hacked PoE injector (52v), I can plug the rectangular dishy into any router? Dishy has the brains to manage communication and alignment, as well as interface with the app?

My goal is to cut out the 120V req for a campervan install so as to improve power efficiency.

@MooreDoing
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MooreDoing commented Jul 14, 2022

@darconeous thanks for the really awesome write-up here! It's already proven very helpful, but had one more q. Am I correct in understanding that, if I use a hacked PoE injector (52v), I can plug the rectangular dishy into any router? Dishy has the brains to manage communication and alignment, as well as interface with the app?

My goal is to cut out the 120V req for a campervan install so as to improve power efficiency.

I have the same use case but you’re probably pushing the boundaries with that implementation. I would expect most of the logic to be managed by the router in light of the dish being subject to the elements and possible physical damage. They obviously want to keep costs down so limiting that risk by putting all the brains in a safe place like the router makes sense. If you’re curious to see a fellow camper vaner’s solution, check out my channel/vid. I’m no YouTuber but I try to share.

https://youtu.be/UCimJixTxTI

@MikeRowand
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MikeRowand commented Jul 14, 2022

My understanding is that the "brains" are all in Dishy, the Starlink router is basically just a POE power supply and a Wifi access point with custom Starlink Ethernet and 120V power plugs on it.

I don't think the app will work if you do this, but you should be able to access the built in web server on the dish to do most of what the app does. It should be http://dishy.starlink.com/ if you are connected to the network you have Starlink connected to, if you have your network set up correctly.

@MooreDoing
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MooreDoing commented Jul 14, 2022

Very interested to hear the outcome if this is tried. 🤘🏼

@tuckdog
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tuckdog commented Jul 14, 2022

@MooreDoing
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MooreDoing commented Jul 14, 2022

That’s amazing! Starlink install 2.0 for me at some point. 🍻

@maxengel
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maxengel commented Jul 27, 2022

What connector...

Neutrik NE8FDY-C6 and NE8MC6. I'm using them with a travel trailer and I repurposed an existing port (I made the round, aluminum plate inwhich the panel-mount connector sits):

Outside_port_cropped

This is great! @oetkb: I have a newer Dishy McFlatface and have read it needs Cat8 and that some people have experienced issues. Have you found that the NE8FDY-C6-B works without issues?

@oetkb
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oetkb commented Jul 28, 2022

It's extremely unlikely that you'd need Cat8 since the stock cables are Cat5e. The Neutrik connectors work great; no issues.

@maxengel
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maxengel commented Jul 28, 2022

It's extremely unlikely that you'd need Cat8 since the stock cables are Cat5e. The Neutrik connectors work great; no issues.

Got it! That's great to know. I'm going to try that setup with my camper. Out of curiosity, are you using foam or something else to form a seal? FWIW, I was looking at using this.

@oetkb
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oetkb commented Jul 28, 2022

Out of curiosity, are you using foam or something else to form a seal?

Since I repurposed the cable/satellite inlet most of the seal is supplied by the rubber gaskets for the inlet. Neutrik makes an optional gasket for the panel mount connector that I found and purchased on eBay.

@jmartin83
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jmartin83 commented Aug 18, 2022

Hi ,
Regarding the excess cable and coiling, on regular Ethernet word seems to be that it doesn't put out enough power to create a strong magnetic field, but seeing that this is PoE could this be a factor ?
I need to do more testing but, I basically had the dish on the ground level, lots of obstructions but cable uncoiled, 125 to 270 Mbps , average in the high 180 Mbps ( 13 samples )
I've moved the antenna to the roof this week, no more obstructions, but cable is coiled nicely ... and speeds are 96 to 188 Mbps , average in the 140 Mbps. ( 13 samples )
I guess a lots of factor are at play like network jitter and possibly weather . But what used to be my average dl speed , is now just the max it reaches on occasion .
Thoughts ?

@Missoulajeff
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Missoulajeff commented Sep 2, 2022

Hello All, Thanks for the detailed and expert comments. Total newb here. Sorry in advance!

Problem Set: I need to mount my Starlink Gen 2 Dishy approximatley 195' from the ideal router location inside our cabin. As you all know, the longest pre-made Starlink cable is 150'

Potential Solution One:- Place Starlink Router in weather proof box <75' from Dishy location, then use Starlink ethernet adaptor and run 23 gauge Cat5e from Router box all the way to cabin router location and install a third party router there.

Does anyone have corrections or comments on this strategy? Can someone give me good links to high quality ethernet cable? This is going to be running underground, in a 3/4" schedule 40 PVC conduit, about 6" from a 110v electrical cable buried in second conduit.
I'm assuming this ethernet needs to be shielded. Correct? And do I need to ground one end of it?

Potential Solution Two: Cut custom 90 degree Starlink cable termination off, use weather-proof cable coupler to join the cut end of the Starlink cable to new 23 Gauge Cat5e cable, then attach the cut-off starlink termination to the far end of the Cat5 cable and plug that into the Starlink router located in the cabin.

Does anyone have corrections or comments on this strategy? Is this coupler recommended and appropriate for this situation?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FLY7233/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A130RVB6PSAL46&psc=1
What ethernet connectors / terminations do you suggest for the cut starlink cable and the Cat5 ethernet cable at the location of the coupler?
Do you have any advice on how a novice like me can get the wiring correct? I see reference to "type B" wiring but have no reference. Are ther diagrams out there?
And will the POE that is required from Starlink router to Dishy work in this arrangment?

Thanks so much for any and all assistance. My preference is to go with Potential Solution Two because it eliminates the extra energy used by the second router and eliminates the need to stash the starlink router out in the outdoors.

Jeff

@jfpdazey
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jfpdazey commented Oct 25, 2022

@oetkb Planning on doing basically the same setup in the "wet bay" of our RV with the components you've mentioned. After a lot of searching, it seems like yours is the best option to get quality components, full shielding, and a measure of waterproofing/dust resistance - at a reasonable price.

Looking at the instructions on the NE8FDY-C6 (on the Neutrik website), step "J" indicates a "Grounding Option" where you are instructed to "Insert contact only if screen should be connected to front panel". See the screenshot included below.

My question is, if I'm aiming at maintaining the full shielding from Dishy to router by using these Neutrik components, letting the router/power cable take card of ground, should I skip this "Grounding Option"? My gut says 'yes', but I'd like to be certain.

Thanks in advance!
John

image

@oetkb
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oetkb commented Oct 25, 2022

@jfpdazey: The short answer is, "Yes, skip the panel grounding".

It's unlikely to actually make a difference with the types of mounting we're using (i.e., non-conductive "panels" unconnected to any possible ground path) but better to be safe than sorry.

@jfpdazey
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jfpdazey commented Oct 26, 2022

@oetkb Perfect! Thanks for your quick reply. Makes sense given your point about the “panel” itself not being connected to ground.

@francc01
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francc01 commented Oct 26, 2022

Hello All.
I want to do a similar thing.
To remove the starlink router, as i find it to limited in terms of configuration.
Besides that, i want to be able to connect most equipment via cable.

One issue, i am unable to order the provided PoE injector, as amazon does not list it anymore for sale.
Would the following one be a good option?
(ps i can only order from Amazon spain due to my location).

its 90W output, and has a power supply integrated.
A bit more€€€ but thats ok.

The idea is to put dishy V2 more or less 150 to 200 meters from my main house on a high support.
The PoE injector will only be used for powering Dishy V2. No other devices.

I have for that a uws-litle-16-PoE switch and a edgerouterx.
I am aware of the switching of the pairs to match up as well dishy and as well the PoE injector.

Trying to avoid bricking first connection of dishy ;) would be a shame after waiting so long...
Thank you

EDIT: I have at the moment the following injector:
48V 0.5A 24W PoE adapter from tp-link (TL-POE4824G). Its a passive 1 GB injector
If i can use this one, then it should be ok and i do not need to buy the more expensive mentioned.

@WIMMPYIII
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WIMMPYIII commented Nov 15, 2022

Hello All. I want to do a similar thing. To remove the starlink router, as i find it to limited in terms of configuration. Besides that, i want to be able to connect most equipment via cable.

One issue, i am unable to order the provided PoE injector, as amazon does not list it anymore for sale. Would the following one be a good option? (ps i can only order from Amazon spain due to my location).

its 90W output, and has a power supply integrated. A bit more€€€ but thats ok.

The idea is to put dishy V2 more or less 150 to 200 meters from my main house on a high support. The PoE injector will only be used for powering Dishy V2. No other devices.

I have for that a uws-litle-16-PoE switch and a edgerouterx. I am aware of the switching of the pairs to match up as well dishy and as well the PoE injector.

Trying to avoid bricking first connection of dishy ;) would be a shame after waiting so long... Thank you

EDIT: I have at the moment the following injector: 48V 0.5A 24W PoE adapter from tp-link (TL-POE4824G). Its a passive 1 GB injector If i can use this one, then it should be ok and i do not need to buy the more expensive mentioned.

There has to be less then 100 meters between each switch. So to get 200 meters you need an inline switch in the middle of your run.
This run will just be for getting data to your dishy. ( this can be done for several 100m jumps)
https://www.amazon.com/Cudy-POE15-Waterproof-1000Mbps%EF%BC%8C1-Wall-Mount/dp/B085S1R5NX/ref=sr_1_38?crid=2NZHHBO1DZL4U&keywords=PoE+Extender+outdoor+gigabit&qid=1666769394&sprefix=poe+extender+outdoor+gigabi%2Caps%2C195&sr=8-38&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840#customerReviews

You need to run power on a 2nd run of wire. ( I don't think cat6 wire is going to be good on more than 100 meters)
snip the end and tie in half the pairs to negative and half to positive on a power pack. (For 200m i think you would need proper DC awg 12 wire) and possibly a higher voltage then this listed below like 56v you would want to use a voltage calculator and also voltomenter the end before attempting to power it.
(If you can get AC power at the dishy end you could run the stock router in bypass mode in an enclosure and just do the above for data to a router into the house)
https://www.amazon.com/Reolink-Adapter-Compatible-RLN16-410-RLN8-410/dp/B07WL7R26Z

You will need this at the dishy side
Option 1 (needs pins set properly) https://www.ispsupplies.com/McCown-Technology-Corporation-800-GIGE-POE
Option 2 (needs an enclosure) https://dishypowa.com/

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