- Bed maintenance
- Wipe clean after almost everything -- including touching
- Use adhesive when the print will take longer than ~30min
- Symptoms: spaghetti, bunching
- Extruder maintenance
- Keep nozzle clean
- Don't wipe with paper towel
- Pull off debris with pliers
- Motor running =/= filament pulling
- Tighten idler screws
- Test movement by marking filament w/ sharpie before it gets pulled in
- Z calibration
- In "AutoHome" position, one but not two pieces of paper between clean nozzle and bed (I've been inconsistent w/ this)
- Re-run Z calibration after manually moving, which will cause the two motors to misalign
- Symptoms: under-extrusion, bunching
- Keep nozzle clean
- OctoPrint
- Upload big files manually otherwise GUI will crash Pi
- Remove filename spaces from manually uploaded files
- Finished assembly!
- Possible errors:
- Top Z caps aren't flush to frame
- Bed can't hit Y switch due to excess belt
- Probably poor alignment
- Extruder pulley not aligned well to hole
- Calibrated!
- Cut excess Y axis belt so bed can hit switch
- Printed Prusa logo No1 at -.9mm = success
- Anti-vibration stands = failed due to low filament extrusion
- Discovered extruder motor "clicking" = not sufficiently pushing filament
- Talked w/ CS
- replacement pulley and ordered some (wrong) ones off Amazon
- can't easily get a replacement motor
- Set up OctoPrint
- Debugging extruder
- Dremeled into pulley enough to move it but till insufficient movement from motor
- Replugged extruder cable in Rambo = success
- Printed Prusa logo No2 at -.6mm Z = low quality
- Printed Prusa logo No3 at -.8mm Z = success
- Makerfaire robot w/ arms up = success
- "Simple keyboard" print = extruder problem reemerged about an hour+ in
- Replugged to fix = success
- Prusa logo No4, unkownn Z = failed due to knot in filament spool
- Trying to print Prusa logo No5, extruder kept going off top right of heat bed
- Ran XYZ calibration:
XYZ calibration all right. X/Y axes are slightly skewed.Distance between tip of the nozzle and and the bed surface and not been set yet. Please follow the manual, chapter First Steps, , section First layer calibration.That apparently will get circumvented in firmware - Continuing Prusa logo No5, adjusting Z to -.6mm = failed due to wrong initial Z which hit probe
- Prusa logo No6, 150% speed; Z to -.7mm, -.65mm, -.675mm = success
- Keyboard again, 150% speed, -.675mm Z = lifting in lower left corner but otherwise success!
- Printed filament guide
- OctoPrint keeps crashing when uploading files
- Triceratops head = some missed layers at top but otherwise success
- Minimal Octave = failure
- missed layer pushed next layer askew
- filament flow seemed fine
- tried glue to prevent curling = inconclusive because of failure
- Calibration Z and XYZ
XYZ calibration ok. X/Y axes are perpendicular. Congratulations! - Prusa logo, Z at -.87mm = extrusion errors?
- tried 200% speed
- filament kept bunching up on nozzle
- didn't finish, I think connecting OctoPrint during print
- not keeping first layer
- Minimal octave
- first layer
- same bunching in lower left
- corners aren't squared somehow, even though Z is good
- second layer
- looking better on second layer on both corners and filament
- tough going over rough spot in lower left
- first layer
- Debris on nozzle?
- moved probe all the way down and Z to -.025mm w/o fix documentation suggests it could be uneven surface
- XYZ calibration
X/Y axes are slgihtly skewed - Trying to set Z on prusa logo: -.6mm, -.55mm, -.575mm
- print failed = filament still having trouble sticking to lower left of z calibration print
- Ran Z calibration
- extruder rammed the hell out of top left of bed
- beeped, crashed, rebooted to language selection menu
- Running selftest
- XYZ calibration
X/Z are perpendicular - Prusa logo = fail from filament bunching on nozzle, despite solid Z calibration prints
- fixing bunching at -.65mm
- adjusted to -.625mm
- needle in nozzle
- cleaned bed
- Prusa logo No7 = success!
- Minimal octave
- glued bed, 100% speed, Z at -.625mm
- top layers look messy, possible reasons
- nozzle too far away (eh, white wall layers look okay so far)
- effect of shaky table increases as print gets taller
- bad filament or nozzle temperature
- was at 205 but octpi sets
- switched to white filament for top buttons for fun
- articulated maker bot, take 1
- Z -.65mm, 100% speed, 215C nozzle
- collision with 1st layer curling = failure
- ^ take 2
- trying again w/ glue
- stopped for unknown reasons around layer 18 w/ extruder still attached
- haha, it missing like 12mb of gcode!
- box = ~success
- no glue, 210C, -.65mm
- sped up to 150% speed on layer 18, no visible loss in quality
- curling on bottom = should have used glue!
- pegboard glasses holder = abort
- glued
- messy filament, likely from low temp
- "hook" on right side detached from raft and would obstruct extruder
- g clamp, take 1 = abort
- glued
- fixed low temp in slic3r to 210
- messiness right around when temp dropped from 215 to 210
- g clamp, take 2 = abort
- same as above but staying at 215 temp + 150% speed
- messiness
- no filament coming out despite no bunching and filament motor running
- manually forcing filament through worked
- gear bearing = failure from nozzle clog like ^
- needled nozzle + successfully tested moving extruder
- gear bearing, take 2 = abort
- filament failure on layer 1
- restarted twice
- whistle, from SD = failure
- I just wanna test the extruder
- no glue, bed actually kinda dirty
- 150% speed
- first dozen layers are perfect, then monster spaghetti
- prusa logo No8 = almost perfect success
- 150%, no glue, 0.65mm
- sloppy outline on 1st layer
- watching temp: 210
- tree frog = stuck filament failure
- unload, reload, cleaned nozzle
- tree frog = failure from under-extrusion
- a little messy inside but could just be the model
- yeah, everything after base layers is low-density -- print detached around frog's chest and was colliding with extruder
- was it for a thicker filament?
- baud rate is 115200 -- saved to octoprint settings
- calibrating Z from .65 to .665
- can't get z calibration to make good lines on right/lower sides
- xyz calibration = perpendicular
- put back extruder idler screws = fixed under-extrusion problem?!
- pegboard hook = near perfect success
- glued bed, 100% speed, .66mm(?)
- new "normal" slic3r settings
- frog = perfect success!
- false starts before cleaning bed and adjust Z
- Z -.575mm
- print time: 3hr5min
- Can't get octoprint to properly load some uploaded files today:
- octave pad matrix
- 2 color minimal octave
- is it because they have spaces in their names?
- headphone clamp (short) = success!
- glued bed, 150% after first couple layers, -.575mm Z
- some small gaps between wall and floor on first layer, mostly fixed on second layer
- minor layer misalignment at top arch of screw hole but otherwise perfect
- robot = good but abort
- 150% speed
- canceled early because it was still gonna take 5hrs
- octave-pad-super-fast = success
- 150% speed
- didn't clean bed
- imperfections are indeed transferred to print layer
- slic3r settings: 10% infill, 3 layer top and bottom
- print time:24min
- doesn't look or feel too bad!
- slight "elephant foot"
Bed leveling failed. Sensor didnt trigger. Debris on nozzle? Waiting for reset- from manually moving Z axis while printer was off
- confirmed mis-level: auto home, move X axis
- fix = moving Z axis to top
- Photo holder = success
- 150%, -.575mm, "very fast" slic3r settings
- 43min
- exposed infill from thin walls
- slight "elephant foot"
- rotary encoder knob = success
- 100% speed, "normal" slic3rs
- 40min
- design isn't what i wanted but it proves the concept
- minimal octave 2 color = failure
- forgot to clean bed but re-glued
- 100% speed, probably "optimal" slic3r
- slight curling in lower right
- color change happened a layer premature
- thereafter filament was under-extruding to the point of repeatedly prompting for reload
- pegboard hook = success
- filament feed came undone from before
- 13min -- no glue needed on these short prints
- Maker Faire Robot
- 150%
- false start from forgetting glue
- curling in back right corner
- shifted layer, almost certainly from pausing to look at curl
- Mutli-color chunkers
- just like before, next (white) filament loaded at first but wasn't pulling through when back to print
- white filament then would "click" in extruder
- back to grey filament, which works fine -- suggesting original "click" problem may not have been the motor's fault?
- Ah, may have been because I wasn't using "colorprint" settings in slic3r
- Bed leveling fails at 4th stop: right column, middle row
- clearly smushing into bed
- XYZ calibration
- jammed out of the 4th point again
- eyeballing the bed w/ a square, it does indeed lean forward, which would cause calibration points towards the back
- may have been from extruder "clicking" vibration undoing nuts?
- retightened nuts
- front right bed nut is slightly stripped
- fixed xy alignment to frame
- autohome is now slightly off
- XYZ calibration
- searching bed calibration point: point 2 (where it was failing before) keeps hitting
- Z calibration: same collision point
- lowered pinda probe
- Z calibration: ok
- XYZ again
- searching bed calibration point: 1-4 ok
- improving bed calibration point: 1-9 ok
- measuring reference height of calibration point: 1-9
all right. X/Y axes are slightly skewed
- autohome is perfect
- v2 z calibration print
- moved probe back up
- -.83mm loses on lower left
- -.85mm is ok
- pegboard hook = perfect success
- 150% speed
- color test again = success!
- 100% speed
- layers look a little messy and the end of each section gets smushed by the nozzle when it moves to the next one -- this is probably because slic3r settings for colorprint have removed "z hop"
- 10min print time
- robot figure again
- glued, 100% speed, -.85mm
- first layer suffered same problem of nozzle colliding with recently placed filament
- still looks like Z is too low
- still looks like back corners are curling somehow
- still layer shift at layer 11
- adjusting Z w/ print again
- .85mm was okay
- .75mm: too low, breaks in the middle
- .7mm: solid throughout but flat
- .6mm: good
- glasses holder support
- 100% speed, glued
- first layer is good
- just like last time, the right side came undone from its raft
- deleting
- button cap test: success
- 100% speed, no glue, "optimal" slic3r
- print time 7min
- DESIGN NOTES:
- outer dimension is about .1 larger than it should be
- hole measures 2.23 but should be 2.75, thus there is a .5mm discep
- enlarging hole to 3.25: good
- hole measures 3.49 deep but should be 4
- deepening to 4.5: PERFECT
- it's a good tight fit but still a little wobbly
- multi-color octave pad matrix = success
- slic3r: ColorPrint + NORMAL
- glued, 100% speed
- filament change at 50min
- 1hr16min
- button cap
- autohome seemingly got stuck by black filament caught between left X axis and extruder
- now, same bed leveling problem on 4th calibration point
- fix = tightening freshly loosened nut under pinda probe
- button cap again
- looks like it came off bed halfway through and bunched onto nozzle
- second and third prints isn't tight at all and its bottom layer is discernibly less solid looking
- lowered Z to -.78mm but it's still not sticking on lower left, despite clean bed
- fixing Z: eyeballed w/ paper test to -.9mm
- button cap test
- first layer looks fuller but it's still a little loose -- should probably just adjust the design between each calibration...
- multi-color workout
- "fast" settings: success
- noticeable filament direction changes on topmost "enclosure" layer
- "normal" but with only 3 layers instead of 5/6: success
- honeycomb is noticeable on white filament
- the first dab of a new filament is always a bit cakey
- 44min print time
- now four at the same time! = success
- 150% speed
- 1hr57min
- "fast" settings: success
- 9v-Battery-Fakeout_NO-ROOM_FAST = print success w/ design problems
- glued, 100% speed
- design problem: looks like internal supports weren't connected to the enclosure on their first layer!
- design notes:
- lid rim: measures 23.58 but design is 23
- box inner: mesaures 23-23.28 but design is 23
- bringing in lid rim to 22.5
- could shorten the whole thing by 3mm too
- moving lid supports in .25
- lengthening lid and its supports to 3
- inner socket support measures 8.64 and enclosure hole measure 8.8, both need to be 9
- widening both by .5mm
- ^ w/ .25 lenience = print success
- lid socket pushdown blocks its pins and is a little tall anyway -- lowering it by .25mm and keeping it to lid brim
- also lengthening lid supports to 6mm
- v2 of ^ = success
- "normal" slic3r, 100% speed, glued
- things are a perfect fit but, w/o clasps, will need glue to stay shut
- frame
- glued, 150%, "normal"
- 1hr40min
- artifacts on front but not back, maybe because of the curve
- layer shifting around 1/3 and 2/3rds through, possibly from filament spool snags?
- ball and socket hinge = success
- forgot to clean bed
- "optimal", 100%
- hinge = success
- hard to unlock but works
- hingebox = success
- glued horizontally instead of vertically like print
- 150% speed
- 2nd and 3rd layers are hella messy
- unlocked and works but pin clasp broke off
- elephant
- "normal" slic3r, 100% speed, glued
- on first layer, blobs at end of each piece as if zhop is off
- kobayashi fidget cube = success
- normal, glued, 100% speed
- saw some nozzle collision on first layer but it seemed to go away
- print is tight, it probably should have had a smallery layer height
- filament spool snagged towards end and manually re-fed -- it didn't seem to realize and didn't prompt for reloading
- gear print from SD to compare w/ tep
- 100%, glued
- ...