- SD Card reader
- Hotbed installation: https://vimeo.com/album/4289066/video/195241496
- WARNING! you will need to re-adjust the z offset in pango before the first print or it is likely to scratch the cover!
- Enclosure assembly: https://vimeo.com/album/4289066/video/193920216
- LCD instalation: https://vimeo.com/album/4289066/video/195243416
- Filament Holder - this needs to be printed, files are on the SD card
- raw one is the autoprint file (rename it if you want the enclosure!)
- enclosure holder is in a sub folder not accessible from the console
Feed the filament. It is important that the pice of filament you feed is stright or it will block against the extruder entry. This means about 2-3 in (7-8cm) of filament need to be inserted. If at the first print the lock button (long leavery thingy) jumps up, it means the filament wasn't inserted far enough.
The pango printing software can be found on the SD card.
- Extract the file for your OS
- Connect the printa via USB - it will show up as COM(number) port
- start pango
- go to 'view' -> 'console'
- select the right port and click 'connect'
- pull the window larger to see the console
- click 'home' to bring the printer into home position'
- find the right 'z-offset' (negative numbers mean up positive mean down). I found starting with zero and slowly moving it up and down 1mm untill you can slide a pice of paper between the plate and the nozel works well.
- go nuts
- Go to the console
- heat the nuzel (heat e button)
- click retract to remove as much filament from the nuzel as possible
- cut filament over the entrace
- re-seal filament for storage
- Meshmixer (free): http://www.meshmixer.com/ - very good for mesh manipulation
- Microsoft 3D Builder (free): Part of Windows 8&10 - excellent for mesn reduciton / repair (better then Meshmixer by far)
- Simplify3d ($149): https://www.simplify3d.com/ - Much better printing software then Pango