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Rock Climbing Instruction
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rock-climbing-instruction.md

Climbing Instruction

Overviews

  1. Neil Gresham's Climbing Masterclass (32-part series)
    1. Part 1 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkfUqdr-0zk&list=PLBCRwO0FN0zMTqSfFW9SMbK2tncTrI25r
    2. Part 2 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKD4oZjYWO4&list=PLBCRwO0FN0zPOIjDgeCBMhrLrc69kOYzm
  2. REI's Rock Climbing series (articles) - https://www.rei.com/learn/c/rock-climbing
  3. Team BMC
    1. Indoor Climbing - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTodUXkQjZwyerKDXT9qrA4bTeQ6aJ3wu
    2. Sport Climbing - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTodUXkQjZww17nrNYQiG0fpiTTZPBpsN
    3. Bouldering - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTodUXkQjZwz5XVx12GhgnPdLLPCFqE7i
    4. Trad Climbing - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTodUXkQjZwwbots64oegekQrr1SczQGh
    5. Multi-Pitch Trad Climbing - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTodUXkQjZwwVwoW5zbmxpD1r-h9bhbYh

Belaying

  1. Bad belaying - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9hsWjA3SmU

Technique and Training

  1. Beginner / Intermediate Technique - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtfngg_GZtb93FAaysIMnmpfd3u6QlYDE
  2. Fundamentals of Technique - http://nicros.com/training/training-articles/fundamentals-of-technique-3/
  3. Slab climbing - https://www.climbing.com/skills/heels-of-steel/

Crack Climbing

  1. Crack Climbing Tips - http://www.rockandice.com/video-gallery/crack-climbing-tips-with-will-stanhope

Wild Country Crack Technique Series

  1. Finger Cracks: https://vimeo.com/40346006
  2. Hand Cracks: https://vimeo.com/40353764
  3. Fist Cracks: https://vimeo.com/40367819
  4. Offwidth: https://vimeo.com/40358544
  5. Gear and Gear Placement: https://vimeo.com/40654007
  6. Taping: https://vimeo.com/40733001
  7. Advanced Fingers: https://vimeo.com/85044153
  8. Advanced Hands: https://vimeo.com/85044154

Ice Climbing

  1. Steep Ice Climbing (article) - https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4316

Gear

Nuts

  1. Intro to Nuts - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6_zNRQjZ-Q
  2. Nuts that Stay Put (placing nuts, article) - https://andy-kirkpatrick.com/cragmanship/view/nuts_that_stay_put

Cams

  1. Tips for placing cams
    1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKuZvsa8Ppo
    2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNnfGHKgAMI

Tricams

  1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHYEjqJ_d1I
  2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtWVLELp7y4
  3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iy5pLkZ0ZQc

Ball Nuts

  1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qsos6lWoftw

Big Bros

  1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTEVXl7g9kg

Slings

  1. Slings and their uses - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-cb-yf_l8k
  2. Nylon vs Dyneema - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvBH2qysX7s
  3. How to break nylon and dyneema slings - http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/

Shoes

  1. Shoe Size Calculator (tool) - http://sizesquirrel.com/

Rope Stuff

Knots

  1. Animated Knots (website, multiple knots) - http://www.animatedknots.com/indexclimbing.php#ScrollPoint

  2. Alpine Butterfly - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DixDGh9Qutw

  3. Prusik - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKShjgeovXI

  4. Purcell-Prusik - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7R9-EBU-EPs

  5. Monster-Munter - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5kbTv3z76s

  6. Stopper Knot - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOTuVitHxMM

  7. Water Knot - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5a0VlhvNqxQ

  8. Euro Death / Flat Overhand - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xihKhSU245U

  9. Autoblock - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHMSF6Py8Yc

  10. Klemheist - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whFUyeo5jH4

  11. Strangled Overhand Backup - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9Ji3hyyne8

  12. Super 8 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vAbhUvRvaQ

Rope Technique

  1. Asend a Rope with a Prusik - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uA1lpDgyMeY
  2. Kiwi coil - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bq7_is-dJQ

Belaying Technique

  1. Slack vs no slack - https://youtu.be/qOhojbsLfRg
  2. Belaying with a munter - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOf1Yzu_OS0
  3. Lowering with an ATC guide / autoblocking device
    1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3zOisWbuB8
    2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkEGYRA4Cz8
    3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPEpjRFdb4I
  4. Releasing a loaded locking device
    1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyN52Uuilv4
    2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vPqJ_r5rKE

Sport Climbing

  1. Sport Climbing Basics (article) https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/sport-climbing-basics.html

Trad / Multipitch / Advanced

Beginner Trad

  1. Making the transition to trad - https://www.backcountry.com/explore/making-the-transition-to-trad

Rack

  1. Building your trad rack - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4borGN3v1Ms
  2. How to Rack for Trad Climbing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4q5f6SPXGc

Trad Anchors

  1. Overview of climbing anchors - http://rockandice.com/climbing-news/climbing-anchors-and-the-evolution-of-the-quad/
  2. The American Death Triangle - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_death_triangle
  3. Quad anchor (article) - https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-this-build-a-quad-anchor/
  4. How to build a trad anchor - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJQwCcISYX0
  5. Clove master point - https://youtu.be/1UyInC0SkGo
  6. Slings at anchors - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vrgadjo9niY&feature=player_embedded
  7. Build an anchor with the rope
    1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OasGT6RggGw&feature=youtu.be
    2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6StxKWSDMUM
  8. Equalizing three pieces with two slings - https://vimeo.com/126266668

Multi-pitch

  1. Swapping leads on multi-pitch - https://vimeo.com/33940152
  2. Belay with an auto-locking belay device - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ENw_CUdzPU
  3. Fall-line management (protect your follower on a trad route) - https://www.climbing.com/skills/trad-skills-fall-line-management/

Misc. Trad

  1. How to Use a Tag Line - http://www.rockandice.com/video-gallery/how-to-use-a-tag-line-with-brette-harrington
  2. Taping - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wu-RUQWJtYw
  3. Making a rap device out of biners - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7NfmAVUosA
  4. Lowering with a prusik (image) - https://cdn-files.apstatic.com/climb/108421394_medium_1494282286.jpg
  5. Passing a knot on rappel - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTmAd9he_Ys
  6. How to save a stuck cam - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3VYjzlFJJA
  7. Avoid cross-loading a biner over an edge - https://vimeo.com/34285610

Anchor Testing

  1. DMM Techincal Video on Slings at Anchors - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vrgadjo9niY

Rappelling

  1. Extend a rappel - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1MiwlLZ5Wo
  2. 5 Steps for safer rappelling - https://www.climbing.com/skills/5-steps-for-safer-rappelling/
  3. Rappel without a belay device - https://www.climbing.com/skills/rappel-without-a-belay-device/

Simul Climbing

  1. (article) https://www.climbing.com/skills/advanced-techniques-simul-climbing-and-short-fixing/
  2. Theory of Simul-Climbing (article) http://chossboys.weebly.com/theory/theory-of-simul-climbing

Rescue

  1. Three-to-one haul with grigri - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDyMRK_x74o
  2. Self Rescue - https://www.climbing.com/skills/save-yourself-a-guide-to-self-rescue/

Tips and Tricks

  1. http://coloradomountainschool.com/guide-tech-tip-multi-pitch-belay-transitions-and-efficiency/

Training

  1. Training for Ice & Mixed Climbing (articles) - http://www.timetoclimb.com/climbing/training-mixed-ice-climbing-foundation/
  2. Beginner / Intermediate Strength Training - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTWPbSgKaWI&t=1s

Injuries

  1. Injury Prevention - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtfngg_GZtb8jwiIUSjFB1UQz4326zwRG

Books

  1. Climbing Anchors - John Long, Bob Gaines - ISBN#: 9780762782079
  2. Rock Climbing Anchors - Craig Luebben - ISBN#: 9781594850066

Links

  1. Multi Pitch Climbing resource - http://people.bath.ac.uk/dac33/high/index.htm
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