Climbing Cheat Sheet

CCS.md

Useful Video Tutorials

Sport Climbing

Simple Anchor:

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-oSr8ei4BU
• https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=1331 (Just watch the two piece anchor stuff)

Quad Anchor (I will pretie this just in case):

• https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=2256

Belaying from the top:

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wor_idcjAic&t=26s (ignore the first two methods, just use the "belay directly off the anchor method". Also consider using the shelf of the anchor for the ATC)
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9np7B1Zao4 Some interesting things that can go wrong

Cleaning sports anchors:

• https://youtu.be/aDilZALfW9c?t=191 (Use PAS instead of quickdraw and connect pass to both bolts if removing draws on the way up... especially in Cuba)

Cleaning anchor by rappelling:

• https://youtu.be/aDilZALfW9c?t=326 (Again we have PAS so no Teather needed)

Multi pitch rappel:

• https://youtu.be/SoKMGeMzxVM
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HdQjQ7Prhmk (part 2)
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bLB3UgzOjo (part 3)

Ascending rope:

• https://youtu.be/WcUmdGIf21o?t=147 (grigri + prussic, watch entire video if interested in other methods)

Transfer to Rappel System for Top Rope:

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeoZNsaTD64

Trad Climbing

Ice Climbing

• Simple Intro to Ice Climbing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSj69qYgO7g&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR2DSCNhEInnc2Yxqw8vqRb41-poW1EHQuksM0GihZtuqRSX_GtStPdzaeA Careful: with axes at the same height there's risk of fracturing the ice, resulting in pulling off both axes. Especially on brittle ice, the triangle ("advanced" here) is better.

https://www.99boulders.com/multi-pitch-climbing << really good multi pitch sport tutorial

Beneficial Self Rescue and other tips playlist
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHVIjwsDTPqSeyho4KiYZtgTwS6Zpw90g

Shortening cordelette for anchor building
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/110478005/how-to-shorten-cordelette-for-small-anchor

Cams to hand size chart
http://www.clydesoles.com/Front/Camssize.html

Multipitch with 3:

It's a right faff swapping leads as a 3 if you are climbing on half ropes. Personally having done it before, I think it's much better to just to have one person lead all the pitches.

Alternatively, if you climb on two single ropes (skinny or regular), then there is no need for anyone to untie. In this case you can climb in series i.e. A ------ B ------ C

A Leads on a single rope, brings up B then C

B leads on both, brings up second/third

C leads on a single rope, brings up B then A

Whilst this method doesn't allow for both seconds to climb simultaneously, it eliminates the hassle of swapping ropes at the belay, which can be time consuming and increase the risk of someone becoming unintentionally unattached.

Multi-pitch rapel

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Xb0ajjlTis

Alpine extension:

https://www.climbing.com/skills/extending-an-anchor-on-a-multi-pitch-route/

Rapel To Ascending

https://rockandice.com/climb-safe/climb-safe-how-to-extend-a-rappel-device/

Multi-pitch sport checklist for Lions head:

• Quickdraks * 12 (per pair)
• 2 ropes (includes fixed line) (per pair)
• Safety line
• Rapel kit (1 x ATC + 1 x prussic chord + 2 * locking biners)
• PAS (+ 1 locking biner)
• Anchor kit (cordelettle anchor + 4 * locking biners)
• Top Anchor (cordelettle anchor + 4 * locking biners)
• Guide books
• Harness
• Shoes
• Water
• Snacks/food
• Belay glasses (Optional)
• Camera (Optional)
• ties to hold glasses while climbing (Optional)
• Rope bag
• Head lights
• Hemet

Camping checklist:

• Tent
• Sleeping bag + pillow
• Sleeping clothes
• Swimming clothes
• Towel
• Climbing clothes
• Toiletries
• Water filter
• Bug spray
• Sun screen
• Fire starting kit
• Camping food
• Axe
• Stove
• Coffee + Grinder + French press
• Flip flops
• Entertainment

non perishable food ideas

• Breakfast: Coffee, Instant Oats
• Lunch: Fruits. protein bar, protein shake, PBnJ sandwich
• Dinner: Ramen noodles, corn, dehydrated food, marshmallows ?

http://www.multipitchclimbing.com/ << ultimate source for multi pitch climbing

Rappeling with two ropes:

With ATC: Just use an overhand knot with lots of tail (https://youtu.be/xXD1sF8iJ_8?t=294)
With grigri: use tag line (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlKPQ_0f6aI)

Releasing a locked ATC: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3phu4F9dvQ

Ascending a rope with an ATC: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Yi9Vd64ABQ . Notice how an extended rappel is useful here. You can just walk up low angle stuff like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSkhzMDCKz8

top managed belay site for ice climbing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdD4MbcE1hs