Radpad Build Guide

radpad_build_guide.md

Radpad Build Guide

1. Prepare your build
   1. Snap off the top OLED Plate from the Main PCB. Also break off the connecting pieces, and put the OLED Plate to the side. You will get to it later.
   2. Decide on a layout. If you want to build any of the smaller layouts (4x3, 3x4, or 3x3), then now is the time to break off a column and/or row. You can discard the unused column and/or row.
2. Main PCB
   1. Solder Diodes. Choose which Diodes you want to use, SMD or Through-Hole
      1. Through-Hole Diodes have the long, wire-like legs (called leads).
         1. Bend the legs around the side of your finger, with the orange diode in the middle.
         2. With the Radpad logo of the PCB facing up, insert the diode leads into the circle & square hole pairs labeled DXX (XX being a number 1-19). Insert the diode so that it is at least somewhat flush to the PCB. DIRECTION MATTERS. The lead from the BLACK side of the diode goes into the SQUARE hole.
         3. Bend the leads out a little bit so that the diode doesn't fall out when you flip the PCB over.
         4. Repeat for all switches in the switch matrix, as well as the encoders up top.
         5. When all diodes have been inserted, flip the PCB and solder the side with all of the leads.
         6. Clip the leads when they have all been soldered. KEEP THE LEFTOVER LEADS. You will need them for the microcontroller socket.
      2. SMD Diodes are tiny black pieces with little metal tabs on each side.
         1. With the Radpad logo of the PCB facing up, melt some solder on one of the diode pad pairs for each diode footprint labeled DXX (XX being a number 1-19). These will be the smaller rectangle pads in between the circle and square holes.
         2. With some tweezers, align the diode so that the metal tips of the diode are over the pads, and the black diode is in between the pads. DIRECTION MATTERS. It may be hard to see, but there is some faint markings on the top of the diode. One side should have a LINE across the width of the diode. That side goes on to the side of the SQUARE hole.
         3. With one metal tab over the pre-soldered pad, reflow the solder of the pad with your iron so it reflows over the tab. Hold the diode steady with your tweezers as the solder hardens. It should now be secure.
         4. Repeat for all diode footprints.
         5. When all diodes are secured with one side soldered down, go back and solder the other side for each one to close the complete the cricut.
         6. Keep the unused Through-Hole diodes for the microcontroller socket.
   2. Solder Reset Switch
3. Solder Microcontroller
   1. Cut the middle braces off of the socket, leaving just the 2 rows of pins.
   2. Solder the row of pins so that that edge of thicker plastic pointing to the edge of the PCB, not inward. Having the point inward cause collisions with the components of the microcontroller.
   3. Can solder diode legs for the controller now, or leave to later.
4. OLED Plate
   1. Solder JST connector on top of PCB and bottom of OLED plate
   2. Cut square bumpon in half, place havles on each end of the top side of the OLED plate.
   3. Screw stand offs into bottom of OLED Plate.
   4. Solder OLED Display to OLED plate.
      • The bumpons should provide a needed bumper to keep the display level when installed.
   5. Connect JST cable to main PCB and OLED plate
   6. Screw OLED standoffs into the main PCB in your desired position (Left, Center, Right).
      • The OLED solder points should be on the left.
      • The holes are oval shaped to give some wiggle room depending on knob size.
      • You can wrap the JST cable around one of the standoffs for management.
5. Switches
   1. Solder any rotary encoders first
   2. Insert switches into top plate. Solder switches onto main PCB.
6. Controller
   1. If you did not solder the diode legs into the controller in Step 3.2, then go ahead and do that now. Otherwise insert the controller.
7. Barebones Case
   1. Attach standoffs to the 4 corners of either the top or bottom plate
   2. Attach the other plate to the standoffs with the remaining screws.
      • Make sure the cutout in the bottom plate alignes with the controller.
   3. Throw the 4 bumpons on to the bottom plate.
8. Flash!

Hi Brandon,
I know that at some point there was a plan to add pictures to this. Is that still true, or should I use this as the final build guide? I'm partixularly concerned about assembling the OLED.