This document primarily links to product descriptions at (Dick) Blick, Scale Hobbyist, and MicroMark. These online retailers offer affordable pricing and a good range of products that are usually in stock.
Sure, we're talking about painting, but many paints are much the same. Brushes are critical.
You may think that you need a teeny tiny brush to paint miniatures, but realize that the point of one sharp brush is the same size as another, no matter how large the brush. Until brush size gets significantly larger, smaller brushes simply hold less paint. We use smaller brushes when we want to load them with less paint to minimize accidents. As you become more experienced, you'll become more comfortable with using larger brushes for smaller work.
Brushes are sized with increasing numbers as they get larger, until they get down to 0. Brushes smaller than 0 are indicated (rarely) through multiple zeroes (000) or (commonly) through number-slash-zero (2/0 = 00). Unfortunately, brush sizing varies by brand.
Kolinsky/red sable brushes are what you're looking for. From Blick:
Sable/Kolinsky Brushes are not really made from sable hair at all. The hair comes from the tail of a
species of mink that is a member of the weasel family, and is found in Siberia and northeastern China.
Because of its strength, spring, and ability to retain shape ("snap"), it is considered the finest
fiber for watercolor and oil brushes. It holds a very fine point or edge. Kolinsky is considered to
be a professional grade of hair, and if properly cared for, it will last for many years.
A quality pure red sable brush is a good alternative to the more expensive Kolinsky, with similar
performance and durability.
If you google brush recommendations, you'll run across brands like Winsor Newton Series 7. If you're new to painting, don't buy these, since you'll just ruin them. Blick stocks several cheaper brands, as well as a store brand. Get those first instead, and you won't feel so bad when they're frayed and curled. Once you're got some chops, replace them with better ones and use these for drybrushing and rough work. When/if you do get the Winsor Newtons, you don't want the miniature brushes—these are simply shorter, which means they hold less paint, which means they'll dry up quicker and need reloaded more often.
- a #2 or #3 brush: Blick Masterstroke Finest Red Sable Round #2, short handle
- a #1/0 (#0) or #2/0 (#00) brush: Blick Masterstroke Finest Red Sable Round #00, short handle
Though an essential technique, drybrushing destroys brushes. Until your better brushes start to wear out, save wear on them by buying cheap brushes for drybrushing and rough work. Some folks prefer brushes with bright, filbert, or flat (rather than round) shapes for drybrushing, buying brushes specifically for the job. There are also brushes made specifically for drybrushing.
As your good brushes age out and you buy new ones, you can use them for drybrushing. Use something like electrical tape around the handle to indicate older brushes that you've relegated to these tasks.
- a #2 brush: Blick Masterstroke Finest Red Sable filbert #2, short handle OR #2 dry brush from Micro-Mark
Metallic paints contain bits of grit such as mica that give the metallic effect. Not only are these bits of grit out of scale for the miniature, but will destroy your brushes. Also, they can be nearly impossible to rinse out. If you use metallic paints (many folks use an NMM (Non Metallic Metal) style these days), don't use your good brushes for metallic paints.
You'll also want to use a separate water jar for rinsing out metallic paints; otherwise, those bits of grit will end up in your other brushes. Find a way to indicate which brushes you use for metallics, like the aforementioned electrical tape and make sure to keep them separate.
You won't need a fine detail brush for metallics, since highlights will generally be done with non-metallic colors.
- a #2 or #3 brush: Blick Masterstroke Finest Red Sable Round #2, short handle (same as above)
Clean and condition your brushes often, ideally after each painting session. A few notes on brush care: never leave your brush sitting in water and don't let paint get up into the ferrule (the metal bit).
- brush cleaner / conditioner: The Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver, 1 oz
There are a number of quality paint manufacturers. I'll recommend Vallejo since it's my personal preference. Vallejo's Model Color acrylics are a better consistency than their Game Color line. These colors come in sets and individual bottles.
The problem with starter sets is that they contain metallic paints. If you want to use metallics, buy the set and save a few bucks.
Otherwise, pick colors throughout the chromatic range, remembering black, white, and a medium grey. Also, avoid special colors like transparents or flourescents. These are the non-metallic colors from the Folkstone Basics set:
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If you're painting any "white guys", you'll want a bottle of this: 70.815 Flesh Tone
Acrylics do not stick to metal. Vallejo makes this in a number of colors. Get 60 ml bottle(s), not 17 ml. Start with one of these:
Initially, just use water to thin your paints. Mediums can be used for things like wet blending techniques and making washes or glazes. Considering they need to be diluted, they will probably last a lifetime. We will step away from Vallejo for this, getting a higher quality product at a much lower price.
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[optional/upgrade] Flow enhancers enhance flow, eliminate beading, increase blending. Used for blending, washes: Liquitex Flow Aid, 4 oz
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[optional/upgrade] Retarders retard the drying process, increasing drying time. Used for blending. Liquitex Slow-Dri Blending Medium, 4 oz
Not a necessity. You can use an old plate. Or pretty much any plate, since acrylics will come off with soap and water.
Some folks use wet palettes, helping them blend colors. I've always used dry, but I should explore. I like ceramic palettes made for watercolor, like this and this. They are cheap, and the wells keep runny washes, etc separated.
- Wait 24 hours before applying fine coats in four hour intervals: 26.518 Matt [sic] Acrylic Varnish
Give your model a wash in mild detergent before painting, since mold release compounds are usually still present.
Plastic/resin models and some metal will arrive attached to sprues. They can be cut from the sprues (see utility knife recommendations below), but snipping is easier and cleaner. Use a pair of cutters suitable for fine work.
- [upgrade] Xuron Micro Shear
Models are made in molds (except for newer ones, which may be 3D printed?) which leave mold lines where two molds meet. I use mostly a utility ("X-Acto") knife to scrape these off, though needle files are sometimes necessary/easier.
- Stay away from cheap knockoff utility knives: #1 knife handles, set of two with #11 blades
- [optional] The #11 blades are straight. I like a curved blade best for removing mold lines and general work: #10 blades (package of 5)
- [upgrade] A cutting pad can be very useful; otherwise, use a sheet of cardboard with care: 'Try-It Size' Cutting Pad, 3" X 4"
- [upgrade] 12 Piece Swiss Pattern Needle File Set
At minimum, you'll need to glue the model to its base. You'll want a good cyanoacrylate glue (superglue).
- Starbond is one of the best: Starbond Medium, 1oz (@ Starbond, free shipping)
Many models also have multiple parts that often need to be pinned together. Pinning involves drilling a hole in either part and using a piece of wire to pin them together. You may be able to avoid pinning for smaller parts and/or lightweight plastic/resin parts. [I think I might have an extra pin vise that I can give to you.]
- The pin vise used to hold bits can also be used to hold small parts. This one is ultra basic: Swivel Head Pin Vise 0-1/8"
- micro drill bits: 20 piece micro-size drill bit set with index, #61 - #80
For larger joints, something like paper clip wire can be used. For smaller joints, pick up some craft wire of suitable gauge. Eventually, you'll want to have several gauges on hand for pinning and modeling. [I can give you some samples so that you can figure out a good gauge. Should keep you in wire for a while.] Here's an example:
Use putty to fill gaps between parts. You'll want both of these eventually:
- Vallejo 70.401 Acrylic Plastic Putty (Tube)
- [upgrade] A ribbon of Kneadatite (aka green stuff) goes a long way. You don't need nearly this much but it's super cheap at ScaleHobbyist. You can also sculpt things from it: Kneadatite 36" ribbon
Boring plastic bases are ok at first, but putting in some effort can really accentuate the model. Depending on the application, use PVA (or just plain Elmer's white) glue or superglue to attach decorations to the base.
- [upgrade] Sculpt stones, etc with epoxy putty. Also use it for filling larger gaps where the miniature meets the base: Milliput Superfine 2-Part Self Hardening Putty, White (@ Amazon)
- Pick up some fine sand, glue it to the base. I have a small tub of fine coral sand that I picked up ages ago. Color doesn't matter, since you'll be painting it.
- Pick out bits of a wine cork or cork board with a utility knife to create authentic looking rocks (after they're painted, duh).
- Use grass and turf products like Woodland Scenics.