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Last active February 14, 2022 17:44
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3d printing controllers skr 2 marlin monoprice maker select wanhao duplicator i3

These are just my notes on updating from a Melzi board to an SKR 2 along with Marlin firmware for a monoprice maker select v2 (wanhao duplicator i3).

Exact specs

I'm using the skr v2 for the monoprice maker select v2, which, to my untrained eye is basically adding hyperdrive technology to a go cart, but, maybe I make too much of the difference in the hardware.

Tasklist (rough, will be adjusted a lot)

  • Wire up the board?
  • Compile Marlin firmware + configs
  • Calculate current limiters for drivers
  • Hook up the front panel
  • Mount board with standoffs, setup without cover, test printer
  • Cut up the case to have front panel fit (if necessary, but am assuming)
  • Cheers!

Quickstart things I have learned:

More details

Anyhoo, I'll be following the 3dwork.io guide to updating building the firmware to the latest and greatest since I'll probably need to focus in on some of the settings to make sure it's working.

Also I found: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNWs86U65aU which is upgrading a wanhao to the skr2.

I'm still waiting for the board to arrive, but I'm going to be using the BTT notes to make sure that I have the more recent revision of the board.

Marlin links: Configuration, Source

For later: bltouch for the maker select

I also found this github repository of a Marlin 2.0 skr2 config for Wanhao by Alex Clavijo. He talks about hooking up the TFT screen as well on the repo.

This Adam Coleman walks through doing the skr 1.4 for Wanhao: http://www.colemanworld.net/2020/05/02/wanhao-i3-conversion-to-skr-1-4-log/. There was no follow up on how this went. What happened... oh no!

stl to mount the skr v1.4 to a wanhao -- I think the skr 1.4 and 2 pcbs are the same dimensions.

Documentation on the SKR v2 from the github repo.

The Facebook Group is very active.

(backstory on why I'm doing this in the first place

I had the original melzi 4 board, but somehow the thermo pins I suspect have gone bad. Without anything hooked up to the heatblock sensor, I was getting a 40c or 24c reading. When I swapped the sensor to the bed pins, everything cleared up, and I was immediately getting good temperature readings. While technically speaking, I'm not 100% sure I even need a heated bed, I figured it was time to update it.

Incidentally, briefly before I discovered the pins were dead, I updated to the latest version of Marlin at this time (2.0.9 I think it is). Great!

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