I had issues with my tap switch, it would stop working. Here are my notes from the disassembly.
Internally a PTM215Z.
This sometimes is required even if nothing changed, not sure why.
- Set the hub to scan for sensors (
POST api/${user}/sensors) - This could be optional if the channel was changed. Try skipping this first, if that doesn't work, retry without skipping this. - Press and hold button for your channel (see table below) for at least 7 seconds.
One theory is that accidentally holding any button will move the TAP to the wrong channel.
The buttons ("nipples" in their documentation) of the PTM215Z are labelled A0, A1, B0 and B1.
| Hue button | PTM215Z button | Telegram on down | on up | Zigbee join channel |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 dot | none | 0x22 | ||
| 2 dots | A0 | 0x10 | 15 | |
| 3 dots | A1 | 0x11 | 20 | |
| n/a | B0 | 0x22 | 11 | |
| 4 dots | B1 | 0x12 | 25 | |
| n/a | A0 + B0 | 0x64 | 0x65 | |
| 3 and 4 dots | A1 + B1 | 0x62 | 0x63 |
(The B0 nipple can't be pressed without dissassembling the hue tap)
Why ? Well now that you know about the PTM215Z I don't see a good reason, the pitch is tiny so component level repair would take steady hands and good technique. Possibly to clean the nipple pads and contacts...
- Don't forget (as I did) that the back plate meant for wall mounting is removed by rotating it
- The rest is basically any plastic clips based assembly, so get your spludgers
- When opening the PTM215Z, a metal spring will lightly jump out
- When reassembling it, the metal spring's solid side should face the cover side with the nipples. I found it much easier to reposition by using a magnet to stick it inside the top cover before replacing that cover. The magnet will keep the spring from falling out.