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Last active January 10, 2022 16:48
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4 day things to do in Halifax that dont make you look like a tourist
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but the reality is that most Haligonians will know you're a "come from away"

notes: Halifax is best in the early fall. The smell of the ocean with the smell of freshly falling leaves is... unique to this place and makes me smile everytime that i think of it.

Day 1

  • if you can, try to arrive in the early evening, between 5-7pm.
  • halifax can be walked, but many of the surrounding attractions, you will need a car. I highly suggest renting a car. The buses in Halifax are no where near as crowded as Toronto, but the lack of a subway really stings some routes.
  • Halifax Stanfield is a modest airport, but it's got charm. Take note of the clearwater lobster stand at the airport, you wil need this on day 4. it will take you around 30 mins on the NS-102 (toll free) to arrive at your first destination. You want to go to the Foggy Goggle, on Gottingen street. (you are looking for a big sign that has.. well, the goggles. :p)
    • at the goggle, you can order whatever you want, just make sure you order a local beer (Alexander Keith is popular) and THE MAC AND CHEESE. The mac and cheese of the Foggy Goggle is known far and wide among Haligonians for being the cure for even the worst hangovers. It's a spiritual experience. :)
  • afterwards if it's not too chilly, head down cogswell street towards the harbour. Go to the right of Purdy's wharf, go to the end of a coloured dock. you will have an uninterrupted view of Halifax's lesser known but equally awesome sister: Dartmouth. It's a great view, and at this hour, you probably will have no tourists.
  • afterwards, head to your accommodations.
  • Best places to stay: if you can find a spot next to the halifax Commons, you will be close enough to downtown Halifax to walk but not close enough that you will get shit on by high prices. The commons are also a great place to take a quick walk.
  • on to day 2

Day 2

  • If you can wake up early for this one, i would recommend it. Try to get up before 630 am. TRUST ME IT'S WORTH IT.

  • you want to start your day at Edible Matters, on Hammonds Plains. The place is popular among locals, and it's far enough away from the tourists that its our little secret. Why should you eat here?

    • well, they make their bread in house, their ketchup, their butter. Their chicken and waffles are the stuff angels are made of and the coffee is served with a side of their in house pastries. Spend at least an hour and a half here, and try everything. Breakfast here is legendary.

  • after this, it's time to hit one of the few touristy spots: the lighthouse at Peggy's cove. If you can get there before 10 am (full from your giant breakfast) you should beat the tourbuses and get a bunch of great shots. Be warned, between 10-1030 it's as if everyone wakes up, and the place is packed.

    • be careful as you approach the lighthouse, the stones are slippery. close your eyes and listen to the fury of the Atlantic Ocean.

  • DO NOT EAT HERE. there's a restaurant that serves the tourists, and it's super pricey.

  • assuming you have an air BnB (which i recommend), after your time at Peggy's cove, it's time for local secret #2. Ryer's lobster. Sure, you could go eat overpriced lobster at the bluenose or some shit, but if you got to Ryer's lobster, you can get two big ones and just cook em at your Bnb.

  • Ryer's Lobster: https://goo.gl/maps/F8x9uxezY29iWDt99

    • Easy recipe: big pot. LOTS OF SALT. Rolling boil. Put the lobsters in head first (this kills them right away so it's humane), leave for 15-20 mins. Serve with melted butter. Salt and pepper on the meat to taste.

  • if you want, you can make a short detour to Polly's Cove hiking trail, before you go to Ryer's lobster. It's best not to linger at Peggy's cove.

  • in either case, return to your BnB and deposit your lobster in the fridge for dinner.

  • Back in downtown, go find a Donair place. Tony's or King of Donair's is ok. The best one is Randy's on Agricola. Trust. go and sit on one of the benches near the Halifax Citadel, that's where you're headed next.

    • Spend some time till the late afternoon at the Halifax Citadel. Tours are free and there's lots to learn.
    • it's getting dark, time to pick up a two-fer from Alexander Keith's brewery to enjoy alongside that lobster you have chillin in the fridge.
    • Walk, you'll work up an appetite for that lobster.

Day 3

  • you have a lot of choices here, so it's good to pick a place to make a day trip.
  • if you like historical buildings, make a trip to Lunenburg.
  • if you like wine, head to wolfville.
  • if you wanna keep in in the city, take the ferry over to Dartmouth (pronounced Dartmuuth (don't say Mouth like the thing you eat with, instant giveaway you're from outta town), and walk along the Schubenacadie Canal, and walk over to Leighton Dillman park. if you get hungry, save that hunger, take the ferry back and head on over to Bayer's lake - you wanna go to Freddies Fish house. You want the Digby Scallops and chips. Eat em right there on the spot.
  • after all this eating head back to downtown to do touristy thing number 2: THe Harbour Hopper. It seems super touristy, but it's very worth it. You should be gettin hungry so ask yourself what you wanna eat:
     $: get a donair and just chill at the harbour. 
     $$: Wasabi House ( you _neeed to make reservations_ to get some east coast salmon sushi and some stuff that people can catch over there)
      $$$: The Agricola Street Brasserie
      $$$$: The Bicycle Thief (reservations needed)
  • late night and your last night in halifax! Go to Argyle street and pick a pub. Do a pub crawl, go nuts.

Day 4

  • do whatever it is you wanna do today. Walk up and down barrington street and go buy something. Say hi to the tugboat if it's in town. Pretty wide open, the Harbour Hopper's tour guide probably piqued your interest for something, go and do it!
  • Wherever you end up, consider having a goodbye dessert / cocktail at The Middle Spoon, on Barrington street. Actually, Barrington street has lots to see, so you can just walk up and down that street and end up at The Middle Spoon.
  • try to leave for the airport before 430pm (rush hour), or leave on a late flight out.
  • if you arrive at the airport before 7pm, Go to the lobster stand and ask for a lobster that's pre-cleared for air travel and security. Easiest way to get East Coast lobster on a plane, no questions asked, and you'll have a lobster ready to cook when you land back in toronto or wherever you're headed next in Canada.
@ooloth
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ooloth commented Jan 10, 2022

This looks so good!

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