Soon after field testing the Mammut Smart 2.0, I became acutely aware that the carabiner I had paired with the device — the Metolius Element II — was sub-optimal:
The two features I needed for it to pair nicely with the Smart:
Having been climbing more seriously for the last 6 years, my exposure to belay devices has been restricted to that which my local gym allows — that is — the Grigri.
Since its introduction in 1992, the Grigri has become a ubiquitous item at climbing gyms and crags. As an assisted belay device, it offers unparalleled performance and positions itself as a solid alternative to older belay plates and tubes.
When I discovered that there were other products on the market that offered similar benefits to the Grigri, I jumped at the chance to test-drive them. My search brought me to two popular contenders, the Black Diamond ATC Pilot, and the Mammut Smart 2.0.
I later purchased a Smart from my local retailer and finally had the opportunity to put it to use today. The following is a brief usage review including some pros, cons, and surprises. T
Question: How do you insert an HTML string (e.g. <p>this is a paragraph <a href="#">with an anchor!</a></p>) into the DOM?
It's easy with jQuery, $(htmlString). But what if you don't want to use jQuery? It's also pretty straightforward.
const container = document.getElementById('container');
let html = '<p>this is a paragraph <a href="#">with an anchor!</a></p>';
html = new DOMParser().parseFromString(html, 'text/html').body.childNodes;
container.append(...html);
My wife found this recipe for energy bites that contain galactagogues — milk-promoting foods and herbs that could aid in building milk supply.
They also double as a really tasty (and energy-rich) snack for days when you just want something quick!
I had this recipe written down in my notebook, but I refer to it often enough I may as well put it up here as well. It also contains measurements for the tackier liquid ingredients in GRAMS, because measuring larger volumes of things like peanut butter and honey by volume don't make much sense due to variability.
For the longest time now, I've wanted to clean up and upgrade my Hi-Fi system, although what I had was "good enough" in many respects. I'm not audiophile by any stretch of the imagination, so I've felt that my needs were fairly minimal.
The reasons for having a Hi-Fi system at all were straightforward:
For reference, my setup was inherited from my parents, who had used it back before I was born!
As a cord cutter, I am an advocate of taking advantage of local broadcast signals in my area.
Not sure what kind of channels you'll get? Head on over here and find out
The following is a rough guide as to how to install MythTV on a machine running Pop!_OS 22.04.
I have an electric stove. It came with my house.
As an aside, since I moved into my house in 2015, every single major appliance in my kitchen has had some sort of defect. I suppose it says something about the quality of appliances nowadays.
One day the front 10-inch burner stopped working. Too bad, it was my favourite one!
A house call from a repairman later, I was told that the most likely culprit was the infinite switch behind the panel. Unfortunately, this ends the repairman's role, as he soon stopped returning my calls. Apparently, this was too small a job for him.
Complicating matters is that appliance manufacturers seem to have hundreds (if not thousands, by now) of models, all with subtle variations and combinations of parts, features, aesthetics, etc. There are some good websites that help you find out which part goes with which stove, but sometimes they have contradictory information too.
You can't cd in xargs because xargs is not a shell... or something. You have to invoke bash.
ls -1 directory | xargs -n1 -I{} bash -c 'cd {}; echo foobar'
Use -t if you want to see the resulting command executed.