UK Light Wiring with Shelly 1

steps.md

Intro

This is a simple guide on how to automate UK lights with a Shelly 1 by installing the shelly 1 relay into the ceiling pendant which has both permanent live, neutral and a switched live back from the wall switch.

These steps are from my own experience making my lighting "smart" but also user friendly (it works via a wall switch!). This simple guide will go through replacing an a normal ceiling pendant with one with room for a Shelly 1. If you have a ceiling light with a bigger base it's even easier.

Warning Electrical regulations must be followed by law. If you are not a competent person under the regulations do not attempt electrical work. https://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/electrical_safety.htm

Wiring Diagram

This diagram has been taken from here and modified to include the Shelly 1.

Parts Required

• Shelly 1 - https://shelly.cloud/product/shelly-1-open-source/
• Connector Set - https://www.screwfix.com/p/ideal-lever-wire-connectors-combo-pack-30-piece-set/6472g
• 3 Core Flex - https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical/d190/Doncaster+Cables+%26+Flexes/sd3428/Doncaster+Cables+3+Core+Round+Flex+Cable+%283183Y%29/p42361
• Ceiling Rose [optional] - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E27-Holder-Ceiling-Rose-Pendant-Light-PVC-Fabric-Flex-Lamp-Fitting-Lighting-Uk/232976733437
• Wire Stripper [optional] - https://www.amazon.co.uk/AWinEur-Stripper-Multifunctional-Automatic-Stripping/dp/B07C3FH1QR/

Steps

1. First pre-wire as much as the Shelly as you can. 2. You want a two lengths of brown wire around 6cm which will be the LIVE in and the SW in (Switched live back from the light switch), a length of blue wire around 6cm for the NEUTRAL in. 3. Cut a small piece of wire to connect LIVE to I (Input). This is the power feed shelly will supply to your light. 4. It should now look something like the following, only O (output which goes to the lamp live) will be un-populated.
2. Install the shelly into the base of the new lamp and connect up the lamp wires. 3. Rember to reduce the length of the lamp wire so the pendant is at the correct height. 4. The red/brown live of the lamp should connect to the O(utput) of the Shelly 1. The shelly will only supply power when you want the light on! 5. The neutral of the lamp can be fitted into the N terminal of the shelly if there is room, otherwise you can put it into the neutral connector block you will be installing.
3. It should look something like this:
4. Time to replace the ceiling pendant. If the wiring seems strange and you don't understand it, do not go ahead and please consulate a qualified electrician.
5. Turn off the lighting circuit you are modifying and ensure that nothing is live (ensure the light does not work and use a voltage detector around the base of the light)
6. Once you have removed the lamp shade, bulb and unscrewed the pendant it should look like this:
7. Please make sure you know what wires are which, this is very important!
8. In this instance it's a very basic ceiling rose as the room only has one light. There are two neutral wires, three permanent live wires and a switched live wire (a red sleeved neutral wire which returns from the wall switch).
9. The ceiling rose has a built in connector block, in order to fit the shelly we are replacing this with a simply bracket which the ceiling rose cover fits to and using our own connector blocks instead of one built into a base.
10. You need to disconnect the lamp, which connects to the switched live block and the neutral block. It should now look something like this:
11. Remove the base keeping the wires together, you will need 4 connector blocks (Earth, Live, Neutral, Switched Live). For each block you need support for N + 1 wires. For example, Live in the above example will need a 4 way, the switched live will need a 2 way.
12. Install the bracket for the new ceiling rose it should look something like this (I had not put on the earth connector at this point)
13. Time to connect the lamp up. 14. Connect up the N(eutral) from the Shelly (which includes the lamp) to the Neutral connector block. 15. Connect the L(ive) from the permanent live block to the Shelly. 16. Connect the SW(switched live) input from shelly to the switched live (sleeved neutral) connector block. 17. Connect the earths of all wires AND the metal ceiling rose together.
14. It should now look something like this, this can be very tricky as there's not much space! It's much easier with lights with large bases. Make sure all connections are secure!
15. Secure the cover to the bracket on the ceiling, being careful with the cables and ensuring they have room and that the cables are secure. It should now look something like this:
16. Done! Install a bulb and time to turn the power back on.
17. Use the Shelly 1 App to add the Light to your network, also configure the button action! I have mine set to "Edge Switch" so the wall switch will change the status of the light no matter the position.

Before and After pictures

Home Assistant Integration

I use the shelly MQTT support to monitor and control the lights in real-time (no waiting on a HTTP poll). WARNING using MQTT will disable cloud functionality through the shelly app.

1. Get the IP address of the Shelly through the Shelly App (Settings -> Device Information). Also make a note of your Device ID.
2. In a web browser go to the IP address of the Shelly, under the "Internet Security" tab there is an "ADVANCED - DEVELOPER SETTINGS" toggle. Tick the "Enable action execution via MQTT" 3. Enter your MQTT server IP and port 4. Tick "Retain" this ensures that home assistant always knows the correct state.
3. Hit Save!
4. In your home-assistant configuration.yml put the following

    light:
	  - platform: mqtt
	    name: Some Light
	    command_topic: "shellies/shelly1-<DEVICEID>/relay/0/command"
	    state_topic: "shellies/shelly1-<DEVICEID>/relay/0"
	    payload_on: "on"
	    payload_off: "off"

5. This is making the assumption that you already have your MQTT server configured. I personally use a separate MQTT instance instead of the built-in one as I have a lot of devices using MQTT.
6. Done! restart home assistant and you should be away.

Hi. Great. So if the switch no longer powers the light would the ceiling mounting be a better option?

The switch is an input to the shelly. So it still works like a normal light switch, you can just choose how it works in the shelly app. I personally have it on edge mode, so whenever you switch the switch it will turn the light on if it's off and off if it's on.

It's exactly the same as the ceiling rose method. If you look at the first picture you can see the switch input goes to the (SW) input on the shelly.

Many thanks for the help

Hi All. Have a Hall light that is controlled by about 5 (🙈) switches. Can't even think where a shelly1 should go so thought I'd put it at the ceiling light. Checked it today and can only see earth live and netual. I don't see any switch wire. See the pic attached. Any advice welcome? Have installed a few Shelly1 and 2.4s around the house in the past few months and this is the first one that has been a challange also the first thst is on more that a 1way switch.

I guess there is a junction box set up somewhere but have no idea were. It's possibly in the ceiling but can't defend pulling it down for a shelly 😂. All the switches have neutrals and space for shelly but doubt I can put it at the switch when there's so many switches to the light.

Hi @*Alangers21* There will be a junction box before the light, follow the switched live until you reach it. This is where the perm live will live, you can install the shelly in there.

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On Sun, 31 Oct 2021 at 22:46, Alangers21 ***@***.***> wrote: ***@***.**** commented on this gist. ------------------------------ Hi All. Have a Hall light that is controlled by about 5 (🙈) switches. Can't even think where a shelly1 should go so thought I'd put it at the ceiling light. Checked it today and can only see earth live and netual. I don't see any switch wire. See the pic attached. Any advice welcome? Have installed a few Shelly1 and 2.4s around the house in the past few months and this is the first one that has been a challange also the first thst is on more that a 1way switch. [image: IMG_20211031_164059] <https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/93495362/139603711-44fab9ef-492c-4c0a-a4b3-49bc612178c7.jpg> [image: IMG_20211031_164040] <https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/93495362/139603712-0ee26c17-eec5-46db-b32d-c7ac215010af.jpg> — You are receiving this because you were mentioned. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <https://gist.github.com/aecf24035a4dc5e6b950977e37aeb930#gistcomment-3946648>, or unsubscribe <https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AAD6O6X5VP4JKUFMHTU7HWTUJXBNBANCNFSM4HJSC3WA> . Triage notifications on the go with GitHub Mobile for iOS <https://apps.apple.com/app/apple-store/id1477376905?ct=notification-email&mt=8&pt=524675> or Android <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.github.android&referrer=utm_campaign%3Dnotification-email%26utm_medium%3Demail%26utm_source%3Dgithub>.

Hi. No. Couldn’t find time and lost heart. Maybe we can work together to sort?

…

Sent from my iPad On 10 Dec 2021, at 10:42, McMoobud ***@***.***> wrote: ***@***.*** commented on this gist.

________________________________ @Davidbastin<https://github.com/Davidbastin> Did you succeed in your connection? I've got the EXACT same setup and I'm looking to wire in a Shelly 1 — You are receiving this because you were mentioned. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub<https://gist.github.com/aecf24035a4dc5e6b950977e37aeb930#gistcomment-3990543>, or unsubscribe<https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AVS35ASJE64AWQDL62SQIUDUQHKSLANCNFSM4HJSC3WA>. Triage notifications on the go with GitHub Mobile for iOS<https://apps.apple.com/app/apple-store/id1477376905?ct=notification-email&mt=8&pt=524675> or Android<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.github.android&referrer=utm_campaign%3Dnotification-email%26utm_medium%3Demail%26utm_source%3Dgithub>.

I'm looking to add a Shelly 1 into this switch. It's a garage light switch (fused) with another switch at the other end of the garage.

Any ideas how i'd wire this up?

I'm looking to add a Shelly 1 into this switch. It's a garage light switch (fused) with another switch at the other end of the garage.

Any ideas how i'd wire this up?

Assuming standard fused switch:

Identify the load side, this is the side going to your light. But check to see what else is on the circuit, as you will be switching it all on and off with the shelly.

You could just connect the shely inline on the load side.

Moving the existing "load" live out to the (O)utput on the shelly.
Add a new cable and connect the "load" live out to the (L)ive in on the shelly and the (I)nput.
Add an extra cable and connect the "load" neutral to the to the shelly (N)eutral.

Job done. The wall light switch wont work of course(you just need to leave it "on"), you would have to put it in a different place to have the switch work as normal.

Hi @lordneon, thank you so much for this. I have a question though.

I saw what you said here:

You could still connect it, but you would have to leave your lightswitch on all the time. This sort of defeats the the main advantage of having a shelly over a smart bulb.

However, in this video, he managed to make the light switch and also the cloud controls work by essentially always powering the light, but using the light switch as a trigger to turn the light on and off via a MQTT call using Home Assistant. Would this be possible or am I misunderstanding? How would the layout differ?

Thanks again!

Hi @lordneon, thank you so much for this. I have a question though.

I saw what you said here:

You could still connect it, but you would have to leave your lightswitch on all the time. This sort of defeats the the main advantage of having a shelly over a smart bulb.

However, in this video, he managed to make the light switch and also the cloud controls work by essentially always powering the light, but using the light switch as a trigger to turn the light on and off via a MQTT call using Home Assistant. Would this be possible or am I misunderstanding? How would the layout differ?

Thanks again!

I suspect he has a neutral in the light switch, unless I missed it he basically just said go to the shelly youtube channel for instructions on how to wire it up.

My comment was made in relation to a ceiling rose install which didnt have permanent live only switched live. If you have a switch live then the device is only going to get power when the switch is on.

Not sure I understand your question. Once a shelly is installed and working it can be used to trigger all sorts with home assistant. Nothing stopping you from using a light switch in one room to turn on a light on the otherside of the house.

Hi, great article which has persuaded me to get a Shelly.

I currently have kitchen lights which are 12v so have a transformer which is plugged into a mains socket.

And there is a light switch which controls this mains socket.

I want to install the Shelly at this socket .

The wires going to the socket is a Switched Live and a neutral. I assume the Shelly won't work as it needs a permanent live?

How about the light switch, does that have a neutral? If so then you can install the shelly in there, in there instead.

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On Thu, 10 Nov 2022 at 14:11, Iceman330 ***@***.***> wrote: ***@***.**** commented on this gist. ------------------------------ Hi, great article which has persuaded me to get a Shelly. I currently have kitchen lights which are 12v so have a transformer which is plugged into a mains socket. And there is a light switch which controls this mains socket. I want to install the Shelly at this socket . The wires going to the socket is a Switched Live and a neutral. I assume the Shelly won't work as it needs a permanent live? — Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <https://gist.github.com/aecf24035a4dc5e6b950977e37aeb930#gistcomment-4364985> or unsubscribe <https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AAD6O6U5OCWTD5BQQJ6UYFDWHT7CXBFKMF2HI4TJMJ2XIZLTSKBKK5TBNR2WLJDHNFZXJJDOMFWWLK3UNBZGKYLEL52HS4DFQKSXMYLMOVS2I5DSOVS2I3TBNVS3W5DIOJSWCZC7OBQXE5DJMNUXAYLOORPWCY3UNF3GS5DZVRZXKYTKMVRXIX3UPFYGLK2HNFZXIQ3PNVWWK3TUUZ2G64DJMNZZDAVEOR4XAZNEM5UXG5FFOZQWY5LFVA4TEOJYHE2TGM5HORZGSZ3HMVZKMY3SMVQXIZI> . You are receiving this email because you authored a thread. Triage notifications on the go with GitHub Mobile for iOS <https://apps.apple.com/app/apple-store/id1477376905?ct=notification-email&mt=8&pt=524675> or Android <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.github.android&referrer=utm_campaign%3Dnotification-email%26utm_medium%3Demail%26utm_source%3Dgithub> .

There is a neutral in the switch but it's impossible to fit the Shelly behind the switch due to space.

Which is why I was hoping to install it on the main socket side.

Because of not having a permanent live at the plug socket, the Shelly might not work.

But next to the plug socket I have a proper mains wall socket. Can I not take a permanent live from here?

If it's brick, then you can use an SDS drill / chisel to make it deeper. If it's plasterboard then you can fit a deeper backbox. But I admit this can be messy / annoying to do. You can power the shelly from the plug next to it. Is this on a different circuit? If so then you are out of luck, as you still need a perm live to send to the light. If it is on the same circuit, then yes you are good to go.

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On Thu, 10 Nov 2022 at 15:01, Iceman330 ***@***.***> wrote: ***@***.**** commented on this gist. ------------------------------ There is a neutral in the switch but it's impossible to fit the Shelly behind the switch due to space. Which is why I was hoping to install it on the main socket side. Because of not having a permanent live at the plug socket, the Shelly might not work. But next to the plug socket I have a proper mains wall socket. Can I not take a permanent live from here? — Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <https://gist.github.com/aecf24035a4dc5e6b950977e37aeb930#gistcomment-4365040> or unsubscribe <https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AAD6O6XDNFVNPWM5DQV2JCLWHUE33BFKMF2HI4TJMJ2XIZLTSKBKK5TBNR2WLJDHNFZXJJDOMFWWLK3UNBZGKYLEL52HS4DFQKSXMYLMOVS2I5DSOVS2I3TBNVS3W5DIOJSWCZC7OBQXE5DJMNUXAYLOORPWCY3UNF3GS5DZVRZXKYTKMVRXIX3UPFYGLK2HNFZXIQ3PNVWWK3TUUZ2G64DJMNZZDAVEOR4XAZNEM5UXG5FFOZQWY5LFVA4TEOJYHE2TGM5HORZGSZ3HMVZKMY3SMVQXIZI> . You are receiving this email because you authored a thread. Triage notifications on the go with GitHub Mobile for iOS <https://apps.apple.com/app/apple-store/id1477376905?ct=notification-email&mt=8&pt=524675> or Android <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.github.android&referrer=utm_campaign%3Dnotification-email%26utm_medium%3Demail%26utm_source%3Dgithub> .

Unfortunately fitting a larger back box is not an option.

I assume it's on a different circuit as the kitchen lights is on the lighting circuit and the mains socket is on the ground floor socket circuit.

But why does this matter? Because I was planning on getting a permanent live from this other socket to feed the Shelly. And also use this permanent live to feed my original socket (that is plugged into my kitchen lights).

Does that make sense?

Unfortunately fitting a larger back box is not an option.

I assume it's on a different circuit as the kitchen lights is on the lighting circuit and the mains socket is on the ground floor socket circuit.

But why does this matter? Because I was planning on getting a permanent live from this other socket to feed the Shelly. And also use this permanent live to feed my original socket (that is plugged into my kitchen lights).

Does that make sense?

The tricky part is your light switch input. If you take that out of the equation, yes you can just just have a plug with a shelly inline which controls the lights. Easy.

If you look at the wiring diagram above. The switch input must be on the same circuit as the power for the shelly.

You do not want to bridge two circuits in any circumstance.

Ok thanks.

Just another question, you had an earlier post where you described on the wire connections when fitting to a light switch which has a neutral.

I'm sure it was there a couple of days ago, have you deleted that post? Any chance of it back as I found it very useful.

Hmm no haven't deleted that. Straight forward though. Assuming three wires present in the light switch: - perm live - switched live (to light) - neutral Power the shelly with the perm live and neutral. Connect one side of the light switch to perm live, and the other to the SW input of the shelly. So when the light switch is turned on the shelly gets power on the SW input. Connect the (I)nput of the shelly to the perm live. Connect the output of the shelly to the switched live.

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On Fri, 11 Nov 2022 at 09:40, Iceman330 ***@***.***> wrote: ***@***.**** commented on this gist. ------------------------------ Ok thanks. Just another question, you had an earlier post where you described on the wire connections when fitting to a light switch which has a neutral. I'm sure it was there a couple of days ago, have you deleted that post? Any chance of it back as I found it very useful. — Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <https://gist.github.com/aecf24035a4dc5e6b950977e37aeb930#gistcomment-4366053> or unsubscribe <https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AAD6O6RRFRTMWUYW7TUHUYDWHYH7JBFKMF2HI4TJMJ2XIZLTSKBKK5TBNR2WLJDHNFZXJJDOMFWWLK3UNBZGKYLEL52HS4DFQKSXMYLMOVS2I5DSOVS2I3TBNVS3W5DIOJSWCZC7OBQXE5DJMNUXAYLOORPWCY3UNF3GS5DZVRZXKYTKMVRXIX3UPFYGLK2HNFZXIQ3PNVWWK3TUUZ2G64DJMNZZDAVEOR4XAZNEM5UXG5FFOZQWY5LFVA4TEOJYHE2TGM5HORZGSZ3HMVZKMY3SMVQXIZI> . You are receiving this email because you authored a thread. Triage notifications on the go with GitHub Mobile for iOS <https://apps.apple.com/app/apple-store/id1477376905?ct=notification-email&mt=8&pt=524675> or Android <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.github.android&referrer=utm_campaign%3Dnotification-email%26utm_medium%3Demail%26utm_source%3Dgithub> .

Hi. Apologies if this is the wrong place for this question. Any idea how I should add Shelly to my WC switch? Also, there is an extractor fan which comes on when I turn there light on and the extractor has an isolation switch.

Thanks! Was apprehensive adding mine to my Bathroom 12v spots, but with your instructions it was really straight forward.

Easy to add in the loft. Normally I would get in an electrician, but your walkthrough was perfect.

Hi. Apologies if this is the wrong place for this question. Any idea how I should add Shelly to my WC switch? Also, there is an extractor fan which comes on when I turn there light on and the extractor has an isolation switch.

Assuming blue is neutral and com is permanent live (please check).
All you got to do is identify which is the wire going to the light. Remove this from L1 and put this into the Output of the shelly. Leave rest as they are.
Put an extra cable from L1 to the switch input. Connect shelly as normal. (Live to L, Neutral to N, Live to Input )

Hello,

sorry if this is a stupid question. I have a similar setup as @jpankh

How would I wire this? And what wires do I leave on the “dumb” switch

thank you

Hello,

sorry if this is a stupid question. I have a similar setup as @jpankh

How would I wire this? And what wires do I leave on the “dumb” switch

thank you

In your light switch it looks like you have

3 wires in COM, which should be perm live.
2 wires in L1, which should be switched live
4 wires connected together which should be neutral.

You can confirm with a multi meter, rest is as normal:

Power the shelly with the perm live and neutral.
Connect one side of the light switch to perm live, and the other to the SW input of the shelly. So when the light switch is turned on the shelly gets power on the SW input.
Connect the (I)nput of the shelly to the perm live.
Connect the output of the shelly to the switched live cables.

You will have to use some connection blocks as you have a lot of cables on the go, it would be worth looking at the shelly mini so you have a bit of extra space to play with.

Thank you! Appreciated.

move tried wiring another switch as pictured. It allows me to control by the app but won’t let me control by the switch. I’ve followed the instructions (as far as I can tell) so not sure what I’ve done wrong.

Thank you! Appreciated.

move tried wiring another switch as pictured. It allows me to control by the app but won’t let me control by the switch. I’ve followed the instructions (as far as I can tell) so not sure what I’ve done wrong.

Hmmm, that all looks fine, It might well be because it's a dimmer switch rather than a normal light switch. Try swapping the light switch with a normal one?

In my house I've got my dimmer lights on normal light switches, controlled by a shelly dimmer 2. I just control the light levels via the shelly / automations.

Yes it must have been the dimmer switch! I used a normal switch and it worked! Thank you for your quick responses! Really helpful! On 6 Aug 2024, at 21:34, lordneon ***@***.***> wrote:Re: ***@***.*** commented on this gist.Thank you! Appreciated.move tried wiring another switch as pictured. It allows me to control by the app but won’t let me control by the switch. I’ve followed the instructions (as far as I can tell) so not sure what I’ve done wrong. Hmmm, that all looks fine, It might well be because it's a dimmer switch rather than a normal light switch. Try swapping the light switch with a normal one?In my house I've got my dimmer lights on normal light switches, controlled by a shelly dimmer 2. I just control the light levels via the shelly / automations.—Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub or unsubscribe.You are receiving this email because you commented on the thread.Triage notifications on the go with GitHub Mobile for iOS or Android.                                                           

Hi, thanks for this great resource. I've been looking through the posts but I don't see one that resembles the wiring I have. It's a Victorian house with really ancient wiring. All I have is this set of wires

I can't tell from those whether I have a neutral or not. Would I be able to use a Shelly 1? If yes, what do I connect where?

Thanks!

No, that's the bog standard live (red) and switched live (black). Think of it this way, when you flip the switch it completes the circuit, so one side is live and the other is only live when the switch is on.

You should be able to install using my guide which is all about installing it in the ceiling pendant where you should have permanent live, switched live and neutral

Thanks. Is there any way to do install it in the switch rather than the ceiling pendant? I want to do this in a couple of places and one of them might be simple enough to put in the pendant but the other one is an awkward multi-light unit.

You could try a shelly 1l which doesn't require a neutral, you might need to put a bypass in, but worth a try. Otherwise, you could change the cable to a 3 core but that's a lot of work. I've never used a non neutral one, in my current house as part of renovations I've put 3 core in to every switch so there's always a neutral.

…

On Mon, 12 May 2025, 11:50 dewang, ***@***.***> wrote: ***@***.**** commented on this gist. ------------------------------ Thanks. Is there any way to do install it in the switch rather than the ceiling pendant? I want to do this in a couple of places and one of them might be simple enough to put in the pendant but the other one is an awkward multi-light unit. — Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <https://gist.github.com/lordneon/aecf24035a4dc5e6b950977e37aeb930#gistcomment-5577146> or unsubscribe <https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AAD6O6T7WSOUCC4UF7YUVJD26B4FRBFKMF2HI4TJMJ2XIZLTSKBKK5TBNR2WLJDUOJ2WLJDOMFWWLO3UNBZGKYLEL5YGC4TUNFRWS4DBNZ2F6YLDORUXM2LUPGBKK5TBNR2WLJDHNFZXJJDOMFWWLK3UNBZGKYLEL52HS4DFVRZXKYTKMVRXIX3UPFYGLK2HNFZXIQ3PNVWWK3TUUZ2G64DJMNZZDAVEOR4XAZNEM5UXG5FFOZQWY5LFVA4TEOJYHE2TGM5HORZGSZ3HMVZKMY3SMVQXIZI> . You are receiving this email because you authored the thread. Triage notifications on the go with GitHub Mobile for iOS <https://apps.apple.com/app/apple-store/id1477376905?ct=notification-email&mt=8&pt=524675> or Android <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.github.android&referrer=utm_campaign%3Dnotification-email%26utm_medium%3Demail%26utm_source%3Dgithub> .

Yeah I saw the email about the new Shelly that doesn't need a neutral. Unfortunately that's too big to fit with the back nox that I have and I don't fancy hacking the walls to make it bigger. I might just have to look at putting it in the ceiling.

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On Wed, 14 May 2025 at 18:05, lordneon ***@***.***> wrote: ***@***.**** commented on this gist. ------------------------------ You could try a shelly 1l which doesn't require a neutral, you might need to put a bypass in, but worth a try. Otherwise, you could change the cable to a 3 core but that's a lot of work. I've never used a non neutral one, in my current house as part of renovations I've put 3 core in to every switch so there's always a neutral. On Mon, 12 May 2025, 11:50 dewang, ***@***.***> wrote: > ***@***.**** commented on this gist. > ------------------------------ > > Thanks. Is there any way to do install it in the switch rather than the > ceiling pendant? I want to do this in a couple of places and one of them > might be simple enough to put in the pendant but the other one is an > awkward multi-light unit. > > — > Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub > < https://gist.github.com/lordneon/aecf24035a4dc5e6b950977e37aeb930#gistcomment-5577146 > > or unsubscribe > < https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AAD6O6T7WSOUCC4UF7YUVJD26B4FRBFKMF2HI4TJMJ2XIZLTSKBKK5TBNR2WLJDUOJ2WLJDOMFWWLO3UNBZGKYLEL5YGC4TUNFRWS4DBNZ2F6YLDORUXM2LUPGBKK5TBNR2WLJDHNFZXJJDOMFWWLK3UNBZGKYLEL52HS4DFVRZXKYTKMVRXIX3UPFYGLK2HNFZXIQ3PNVWWK3TUUZ2G64DJMNZZDAVEOR4XAZNEM5UXG5FFOZQWY5LFVA4TEOJYHE2TGM5HORZGSZ3HMVZKMY3SMVQXIZI > > . > You are receiving this email because you authored the thread. > > Triage notifications on the go with GitHub Mobile for iOS > < https://apps.apple.com/app/apple-store/id1477376905?ct=notification-email&mt=8&pt=524675 > > or Android > < https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.github.android&referrer=utm_campaign%3Dnotification-email%26utm_medium%3Demail%26utm_source%3Dgithub > > . > > — Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <https://gist.github.com/lordneon/aecf24035a4dc5e6b950977e37aeb930#gistcomment-5580173> or unsubscribe <https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AAFYWDYKOVGQB2BE6SZZTK326NZXJBFKMF2HI4TJMJ2XIZLTSKBKK5TBNR2WLJDUOJ2WLJDOMFWWLO3UNBZGKYLEL5YGC4TUNFRWS4DBNZ2F6YLDORUXM2LUPGBKK5TBNR2WLJDHNFZXJJDOMFWWLK3UNBZGKYLEL52HS4DFVRZXKYTKMVRXIX3UPFYGLK2HNFZXIQ3PNVWWK3TUUZ2G64DJMNZZDAVEOR4XAZNEM5UXG5FFOZQWY5LFVA4TEOJYHE2TGM5HORZGSZ3HMVZKMY3SMVQXIZI> . You are receiving this email because you commented on the thread. Triage notifications on the go with GitHub Mobile for iOS <https://apps.apple.com/app/apple-store/id1477376905?ct=notification-email&mt=8&pt=524675> or Android <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.github.android&referrer=utm_campaign%3Dnotification-email%26utm_medium%3Demail%26utm_source%3Dgithub> .