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February 27, 2013 22:17
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How to make sauce.
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1. Get good tomatoes- the usual plastic ones won't do. I usually get heirlooms, | |
if I can. Look for ones that are kinda squishy, but not actually squished. If | |
they're too hard, they were probably picked too early and won't be sweet | |
enough. | |
2. Prep tomatoes. | |
1. Place each tomato on cutting board. Press down on tomato, and roll it | |
around cutting board. You're trying to damage the internal walls to get | |
them to release juice, without rupturing the skin (same thing you'd do | |
to an orange when making fresh OJ). Romas can take a lot of squeezing, | |
heirlooms usually can't. | |
2. Cut bottom off tomato, squeeze jelly-like substance out into bowl. Use | |
your fingers to get out as much as possible. | |
3. Slice rest of tomato as thin as you have patience for. | |
3. Now you have a bowl of tomato guts/liquid, and a pile of sliced tomatoes. Put | |
tomatoes into oven-safe saucepot (cast iron or something) and salt them. | |
Work salt into tomatoes with your hands. This is the fun part; you're trying | |
to draw more liquid out of the tomatoes. After the salt is worked in, let it | |
sit for a few minutes to get as much liquid out as possible. | |
4. Pick up giant ball of salted tomatoes, squeeze as much liquid out of it as | |
will come (into the bowl mentioned above). | |
5. Add olive oil to tomatoes, enough to thinly coat everything (to keep it from | |
burning). | |
6. Put saucepot in oven at 450 degrees and leave it in for a while; the exact | |
time depends on how much liquid you got out of the tomatoes, but you're | |
waiting for the edges of the tomatoes to start to darken (Maillard | |
reaction). It usually takes 45-60 minutes, but keep an eye on it. | |
7. At this point, prep anything else that's going into the sauce. At least | |
garlic and onion, maybe beef, maybe mirepoix/soffritto. Brown it all, just | |
before the tomatoes are done. Set it aside for the moment. | |
8. (Carefully) take the extremely hot pot of tomatoes out of the oven, put it | |
on the stovetop on medium. Immediately start deglazing the pot with the | |
tomato juice, all of those stuck-on bits are gold. If you run out of tomato | |
juice, switch to wine. | |
9. Once deglazing is done, dump in the rest of your prepped stuff from #8. | |
Stir it all up. Make sure there's enough liquid to cover (it's okay to start | |
using water at this point, you should have the flavor you need). At this | |
stage, you will almost certainly forget that the pot came out of the oven, | |
and you will hold the edge of it to stir. It will hurt. Hold your burned | |
hand under cold water while stirring. | |
10. Add any herbs you might want, fresh oregano is great, maybe a bay leaf. | |
11. Simmer for as long as you have patience for, at least 45 minutes | |
(especially if you used mirepoix or beef, they need a lot of time to | |
integrate or you'll get that gross thing where the solids stay on top of | |
the pasta and the juice runs out). Keep adding enough water to simmer | |
effectively, but try not to drown it. | |
12. After you run out of patience, turn the heat up a bit, dump in your | |
(preferably fresh) pasta, and (if you're low on liquid) add enough liquid | |
to cover the pasta. Yes, into the sauce. Cook the pasta until the texture | |
is right, which means aldente-ish. | |
13. Take off heat. Eat. |
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