Fire roasted cauliflower over truffled parsnip, walnut, and porcini puree,
topped with lemon beurre blanc and shaved black truffle:
Goals: Balance the umami and richness of the puree with the acid of the beurre
blanc, let the truffle sing but not overpower the dish, and let the roasted
cauliflower's flavor stand out on its own.
Timing: Beurre Blanc is stable, and can be very gently reheated for service,
puree can remain gently heated in blender/processor for quite some time by
leaving it running. So have those knocked out of the way first, and finish the
cauliflower when ready to plate.
Puree:
Ingredients:
- 6 Medium parsnips, pealed and cubed with their fibrous centers discarded from
the larger pieces (when you cut the parsnip, you'll see an outer and an inner
circle, much of the inner circle is very fibrous and makes a courser puree;
just cut around it, using as much of the parsnip as you can, but getting rid of
the very center parts; on smaller pieces, don't worry about it)
- Walnut pieces, about 1/2 a cup
- Dried Porcini mushroom, 1/2 - 1 (imagine them finely chopped, their mass
should be about 1/4 cup total)
- Low Sodium Soy Sauce
- Milk
- A dry and acidic white wine; sauvignon blanc is my choice here. It will be
fully cooked down, so don't use anything expensive, but it should technically
be potable.
- aged parmesan (Vecchio or Stravecchio)
- White truffle oil
- Truffle juice (if you buy water or oil preserved truffles, just use the
liquid they are packaged in)
- Butter
Process:
Poach the parsnips in just enough milk to cover, with about 1/2 cup white wine,
and a tablespoon of butter. (Note that milk-protein + acid + heat == farmers
cheese/paneer; so there will be weird looking stuff happening in the pot as the
curds separate from the whey; this is fine).
After the parsnips are softened, remove and drain them, blotting them dry with
ink-free paper-towels; and removing as much curd as you reasonably can (the
curd is fine, but may burn during the next step)
Place the parsnips on ink-free paper-towels and blot dry-ish, then move to
roasting pan and toss with just enough truffle oil to coat. Place in a 375ºF
oven and roast until they have some color on them.
Toast the walnuts and dried porcini, also tossed with a tiny bit of truffle oil
until... toasted...
Cook off about 1/2 cup white wine, reducing it down to about 1/4 cup.
In a food processor or high-speed-blender, blitz the porcini and walnuts to a
reasonably fine powder. Add the roasted parsnip, about 4 tbsp butter, the
reduced white wine, and give it a whir to create a thick paste, then add enough
milk to achieve the desired viscosity (1-2 cups; depending on how much moisture
the parsnips retain. Also, you may need to add a little milk to get the paste
to form if using a blender; just make sure to use as little liquid as necessary
to avoid agglomeration, blend fully, and then add more liquid). Add soy sauce
and grated parmesan to taste, and finally (and last, because the compounds
which give truffle their amazing flavor are highly volatile) add the truffle
juice until you have just enough truffle, but not too much (depending on the
product, about 1 tbsp-ish; if you add to much, cut it with a little more cooked
wine or lemon juice)
Beurre Blanc:
Ingredients:
- White Wine (1/4 cup)
- Juice of 1/2 lemon
- Butter (1/4 lb; 1 stick; you won't use all of it, but it's nearly impossible
to make smaller batches of the stuff...)
- White Truffle oil (1 drop)
Process:
Start by cutting up butter into cubes and placing them in the freezer for about
20-30 minutes.
In small saucepan reduce wine and lemon juice to a gastrique (at least half,
probably 1/4 volume). Remove from heat, and add butter 1 cube at a time, waiting
for it to melt fully before adding the next. Whisk the entire time. Return to
heat if the butter is taking too long to melt; but do NOT over heat or it will
split. When you have a thick velvety emulsion, add just a droplet of truffle
oil, and whisk in thoroughly. (Should just be a tiny hint of truffle; barely
detectable)
(If you want a more traditional beurre blanc, you would very-finely mince a
shallot, and soften in butter, before reducing the gastrique; but in this
recipe it's not necessary)
When this cools, it will take on a consistency like mayonnaise, to reheat, add
to heat for about 1-3 seconds, then remove, whisking thoroughly, repeat until
desired consistency, but be extremely careful not to heat too quickly or get
it too hot; if you start seeing oil-slick at any point, place the saucepan on
something that can pull heat out of it (marble counter-top, cold cast-iron pan,
etc) and whisk like you have never whisked before.
Cauliflower:
Ingredients:
- Cauliflower cut into flat-ish pieces, about 1/2" thick
- Fresh garlic
- Water
- the juice of 1 lemon.
- Milk (1/4 cup ish)
- Butter (4 tbsp)
- Fire
Process:
Steam the cauliflower pieces in an inch of water, white wine, lemon juice and
garlic (just mash the garlic up enough to let it do its work; no need to chop
it up or anything) until softened. (I'd use vegetable stock instead of water if
you have it)
Remove cauliflower, drain, and blot dry. Move to large skillet, add milk and
butter. On medium heat let the milk proteins start to brown a little; and let
the butter soak in. Then remove from heat and let stand for a few minutes just
to let it gently poach in the butter until ready to plate:
Plating:
Form a base of the parsnip puree; top with the cauliflower. Fire roast the
cauliflower with a torch, make sure you roast it enough that the roasted flavor
is very noticeable in the final dish (you'll smell/see it; it should smell
roasted, and should look very dark brown, but not quite black on the
high-spots).
Drizzle with beurre blanc, make sure to provide enough of this acid kick to
balance the richness of the umami-bomb underneath, while not really standing
out on its own; e.g. you shouldn't necessarily immediately notice it's there,
but if it weren't you'd miss it a lot)
Top with shaved truffle (white winter truffle preferably; order online; since
apparently you just can't find it in specialty stores around here any more...)
http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2015/04/pressure-cooker-fast-and-easy-chicken-chile-verde-recipe.html