flowchart TD
Mac((MacBook Pro)) -->|USB-C/Thunderbolt| Dock(Thunderbolt Dock)
PC((Windows PC)) -->|DP| Monitor
Dock -->|HDMI/DP| Monitor
Backup(Backup drive) -->|USB| Dock
Net(Network Switch) -->|Cat7| Dock
Net -->|Cat7| PC
Router -->|Cat7| Net
Dock -->|USB| Switch
PC -->|USB| Switch
Headset(Gaming Headset) -->|USB| PC
Switch(USB Switch) --> Hub(USB Hub)
Hub -->|USB| Keyboard
Hub -->|USB| Mouse
Hub -->|USB| Mic
Hub -->|USB| DAC
Hub -->|USB| Webcam
Hub -->|USB| Light
DAC -->|3.5mm audio| Speakers
Last active
September 19, 2023 20:40
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Ian's Office Setup
- Switch between Mac and PC while sharing peripherals
- Switch between multiple Macs if necessary using one cable
Currently, switching from Mac to PC means pressing the USB switch and unplugging the Mac. The monitor will auto-detect the source and switch over.
- Thunderbolt Dock - CalDigit TS3+. Has been reliable for 3+ years. Used to use Elgato docks at work and home but they would all fail after a year or so.
- USB Switch - Pluggable USB3 sharing switch - USB3 probably isn't necessary but I hoped that the extra shielding & material might make it less flakey. I haven't had problems with this one. I used to have a mechanical USB3 switch and it was junk.
- USB Hub - Anker 7-port USB3 36W hub. Previous one got flakey, this is my second.
- DAC - Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter
- Mic - Blue Snowball USB mic on a cheap boom - not ideal but upgrading is $$$
- Webcam - Logitech C922x Pro Stream webcam
- Light - Logitech Litra Glow LED streaming light, controlled via Raycast and these scripts
- Keyboard - Keychron K2, but I keep it wired
- Mouse - Razer DeathAdder on a Razer Goliathus mat with a Glorious mouse bugee
- Backup Drive - A big drive in an Amazon Basics USB-3 enclosure that features a power button
- Speakers - Ancient Logitech ones from 2009 or so
- Gaming Headset - HyperX Cloud II
- Desk - Uplift with memory buttons. Purchased the legs only and put my own top on it. Great.
- Monitor Arms - Jarvis monitor arms. With two monitors, do NOT get the dual monitor arms because you will be very limited in how you can position them.
- Monitor
- Current: Samsung SJ55W 34-inch - inferior picture and not curved, but actually usable, unlike the others
- Tried but returned: LG 35WN65C-B - produced an infuriating 4630 Hz tone when on, no matter what it was connected to
- Beautiful, but unusable: LG 38WN95C-W - 144hz, curved, truly amazing, except when connected to Macs will create a strange digital burn-in effect and eventually lines, and LG refuses to help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2y-HlGAZvE4
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