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Traffic situations can change fast, especially around intersections and in curves. The Basic Street Strategies in this section will help you:
- Properly position your motorcycle well on the road
- See and be seen
- Use RiderRadar to avoid traps, and focus your mental processing to make good, quick judgments while riding
This section will take approximately 15 minutes to complete.
If there is more than one lane, pick the lane where you do not have to change lanes a lot and can see ahead while being visible to others.
Maintain a space cushion all around and ride at the speed of traffic in your lane to help reduce potential conflicts. Consider shoulders and medians as possible escape paths.
On freeways, keep right except to pass, and use a middle lane if there are more than two lanes so you can reduce conflicts at entrance and exit points. When you change lanes, be sure someone else two lanes over is not aiming for the same space.
As a motorcyclist, you can divide your lane into three portions: left, middle, and right. Your best lane position (LP) within a lane changes with conditions. Consider what is going on ahead, behind and to the sides. Leaving room ahead for others helps you have space for yourself.
Change lane positions to avoid hazards, to avoid bad road conditions, and to see and be seen. Presentation is a term that means to use a lane position where others have a better chance to see you, especially at an intersection, or as you approach a line of oncoming vehicles.
Use your eyes and mind to determine how and when to adjust position as situations unfold. Imagine a bird’s-eye view from high above to see how traffic conditions might affect you, so you are ready to change lane position or speed.
Use the left third (LP1):
- As a start (or default) position for seeing and being seen.
- To see a car backing out of a driveway ahead on the right.
- To keep drivers from sharing your lane.
- To see better when approaching a right-hand curve.
- To increase your line of sight down the road.
- To avoid doors opening from parked cars.
- To be more visible at an intersection with a limited view to the right.
- To avoid the dark strip of oil, debris, or manhole covers often found in the middle of a lane.
Use the middle third (LP2):
- To help with hazards on both sides, such as cars parked on the right and traffic in the other lane.
- To see and be seen at the crest of a hill.
- To be visible at an intersection with a limited view on both sides.
Use the right third (LP3):
- To avoid windblast from an oncoming truck.
- To see and be seen when there is a line of oncoming cars.
- To see better when approaching a left-hand curve.
- To be visible at an intersection with a limited view to the left.
- To avoid the dark strip of oil, debris, or manhole covers often found in the middle of a lane.
It is your responsibility to make sure drivers have the best chance to see you.
- Distracted driving is on the rise
- Motorcycles are small and narrow
Drivers may not look for you. You must make yourself as visible as possible, as conspicuous as possible, and at the same time ride as if you are invisible to others. Even if a car driver seems to be looking you right in the eyes, do not assume they are really seeing you.
Wear bright clothing and a light-colored helmet during the day. Have reflective material on your clothing and helmet for riding at night.
Be sure the headlight is on during the daytime; it may come on automatically. Consider when to use the high beam for extra visibility, but don’t blind other motorists.
Use your turn signals to let others know what you plan to do. Be sure to cancel your signal once you’ve completed your action.
Flash the brake light before stopping (except for emergency stops) and as needed while waiting at stops to alert other motorists.
Use your horn to gain attention, but do not rely on it. Others may not be able to hear it over loud music or for other reasons.
Consider adding reflective material and additional lights to your motorcycle.
RiderRadar is about looking ahead, but don’t forget to check for hazards behind in the rear view mirrors. Search far and near as well as from side to side. Factors in front make up most of the hazards that affect you. You want to be able to identify them as early as possible so you can respond well ahead of time and do not have to react to an emergency at the last possible moment.
Some locations are more hazardous than others and may be frequent crash locations for any highway user.
Examples include:
- An intersection with limited view
- A tight curve
- A slick surface
- A road with no escape path
Each of these is a hot spot because special attention is necessary. Note that most of the factors that affect a rider are between the 11 and 1 o’clock positions on a clock face.
Using time and distance to your advantage requires you to know what is going on all around. Three visual lead times and distances make up RiderRadar:
- A 2-second following time
- A 4-second urgent time
- A 12-second anticipation time
These are not just straight-ahead times and distances, but include possible paths to the sides. It may be surprising how far you travel, even at moderate speeds. If you multiply your miles-per-hour by 1.5, the product is the number of feet you are traveling per second. For example, at 30 miles per hour, you are moving about 45 feet per second.
A two-second following time and distance is a minimum when conditions are ideal and you are paying close attention ahead. It helps you avoid running into the vehicle in front of you if the operator brakes suddenly. Less-than-perfect conditions require more time and space.
To establish a two-second following time and distance, pick out a fixed point ahead, like a signpost or pavement marking. As the vehicle ahead passes the fixed object, count off “one-motorcycle-one, one-motorcycle-two” at normal talking pace. If you have not reached the fixed point, you have the minimum. Be sure not to count too fast.
A greater following time and more distance are better. This is especially important when you are a new rider, riding an unfamiliar motorcycle, riding in the rain, riding in unfamiliar or hazardous areas, or if the person ahead can brake to a stop in a shorter distance than you. You want plenty of time to search, evaluate and respond.
A four-second urgent time and distance helps you respond properly to conditions, whether approaching an intersection, rounding a curve, or following another vehicle. You can avoid running into the vehicle in front of you if it hits something. You also can respond to an object in the road that a vehicle straddles or steers around, such as a pothole, tire carcass, muffler, block of wood, or something that fell out of the back of a truck. You can generally stop within the distance you would have traveled in four or five seconds. You may need all of that space to bring your motorcycle to a safe stop.
A twelve-second anticipation time and distance helps you evaluate areas it would take you twelve seconds to reach. The idea is to have a big picture of the entire environment and to be aware of the overall traffic flow.
Consider single factors as well as multiple factors, like what drivers might do when they are responding to each other. For example, a car that pulls out in front of another car may force the second car into your path. Also realize an escape path requires time and distance. An escape path can be directly in front of you, to the right, or to the left. Escape paths can be within your lane, in the next lane over, on a shoulder, or even off the road if conditions permit.
If you need to stop for a hazard, realize that braking distance is only one part of stopping. The three parts of total stopping distance are:
Perception distance is how far you travel until you become aware of a hazard. You need full attention to know what is going on. The higher your speed, the more distance you travel while you perceive situations.
Reaction distance is the distance traveled from the time you notice the hazard until you apply the brakes or swerve. Again, higher speed equals more distance traveled.
Braking distance is the distance you travel after applying the brakes. You can help yourself by practicing quick-stop skills often. Higher speed equals more distance traveled while you are using the controls.
If you are going 60 mph, you are moving about 90 feet per second. How many seconds might it take you to perceive, react, and brake when a car pulls out in front of you? How many feet would you travel in those seconds?
You can reduce risk by improving skills for each part of total stopping distance. You want to see and understand what is happening ahead so you do not have to make an emergency reaction. Use your eyes and mind, your perception skills, and think “What If?“ to be able respond smoothly instead of panicking.
While having good physical skill is important, safe riding is more about the eyes and mind than about the hands and feet. A good strategy to use is SEE, which stands for Search, Evaluate, and Execute. Search and Evaluate relate to the eyes-and-mind part, and Execute refers to the hands-and-feet part.
Search means to scan far and near and side to side. It includes:
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Checking the mirrors, blind spots and instruments.
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Using your eyes to take in all that is important, and your mind to sort out what you see into four categories:
- Traffic controls and roadway design features
- Highway users
- Road and surface conditions
- Escape paths, in front and to each side
These categories help you organize a complex environment and help you identify key risk factors at any given moment.
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Having escape paths, which give you a way out and include open areas to move into if braking alone is not enough to avoid a crash.
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Having 360 degree awareness. Imagine hovering high over your position so you can see all the factors that affect you.
Your eyes should be busy and your mind active. Do not fixate on an object for more than a split second. Keep your eyes moving—far and near, left and right, including instrument display and mirror checks.
Evaluate means to think about what could happen. It includes:
- Figuring out how factors interact.
- Predicting the worst to get the best results.
- Thinking beyond the moment about options.
- Being ready to change a decision.
- Planning how to respond to potential traps.
- Keeping a margin of safety.
- Thinking What If?
Ride so the mistakes of others do not affect you. For moving hazards, separate yourself from them by making speed or position changes to meet hazards at different points in time. As an example, avoid meeting a large vehicle on a narrow bridge.
For fixed hazards, adjust your position. You do not want to ride into a trap where there is no escape.
It is always important to have at least one escape path open to avoid getting trapped. The best path to have open is the one in front of you so you will not have to swerve. If you must swerve, keep in mind a motorcycle does not need the same space as a car. You can fit into a smaller opening.
Execute means to use smooth and well-timed actions. It includes the three action steps of:
- Adjusting speed, which means to slow down or speed up to separate hazards.
- Adjusting position, which means to pick a better lane or better spot within a lane.
- Communicating intentions, which means to use turn signals, brake light, or horn.
There must be enough time and space to maneuver. Riding at any speed requires an adequate space cushion to brake and/or swerve. Not having good safety margins invites risk.
Now that we’ve covered basic strategies, the next section will explain strategies for specific riding situations you may encounter on the road.
Crashes are caused by an interaction of factors. You can manage risk by being able to SEE: Search, Evaluate, and Execute, and by using strategies for common situations like:
- Intersections
- Lane changes and merging
- Curves
- Obstacle avoidance
- Parking
- Night riding
- Group riding
This section will take approximately 25 minutes to complete
The greatest potential for a conflict between you and other traffic is at intersections. It is important to predict what might happen several seconds before you reach an intersection. Roundabouts, driveways, alleys, medians with openings that allow left turns across lanes, pedestrian crosswalks, and railroad crossings should be considered intersections.
- You want to have 360° awareness
- Be aware of traffic ahead, behind, and on the left and right.
- Remember to use Presentation
- Use a lane position where others are able to see you.
- Notice when others may not be able to see you.
- Be aware of blind spots caused by stationary objects such as trees, light poles, parked cars, fencing, etc.
- Even if you are in view, drivers could still turn in front of you.
- When you are approaching an intersection, have an escape path in case someone makes a mistake.
- Be prepared to accelerate, stop, or swerve.
- Remember to have the four-second urgent distance open.
- Identify traps and plan escape paths early.
- At some intersections it may be necessary to stop more than once, especially to open up the view the best you can.
- This means to use a position to see and be seen in both directions without interfering with cross traffic or pedestrians.
- Before pulling out, make your final check in the direction of the closest potential hazards.
- When waiting at a red light, remain in 1st gear and:
- Keep your brake light on.
- Check the mirrors often and flash your brake light when someone approaches from behind.
- Have an escape path ready.
- After the light changes, wait a second or two and thoroughly check cross traffic before moving out, as some drivers run through red lights.
- Some intersections have traffic-actuated lights, which use sensors in the road surface to detect traffic.
- Sometimes they do not detect a motorcycle.
- Try to stop on top of the sensors if they are visible.
- If you are turning from a stop, select a lane position that allows you to see traffic.
- If the turn is tight, it may help to turn the handlebars and lean the motorcycle slightly in the direction of the turn before starting out.
- You can also position yourself at a slight angle.
- Manage the clutch lever and throttle so you do not accelerate too fast or turn too wide.
Areas between intersections also can be hazardous.
- Be sure to keep a space cushion all around and have an escape path open.
- Have plenty of following distance.
If the escape path directly in front is not enough, the next best path is usually on the right.
- Watch for vehicles pulling out of parking areas or backing out of driveways.
- Notice parked cars where a car door could open in your path.
- Search for people or animals that could dart out in front of you.
- Look for pedestrians, bicycles or other vehicles that could affect escape paths.
Blind spots are areas that make it impossible for you to see others or for others to see you.
You have blind spots beside and behind you, others have blind spots beside and behind them, and the roadway has its own blind spot areas that block everyone’s view.
You have blind spots behind and beside you that you cannot see in your mirrors. Even if your mirrors provide good coverage to the rear, check the blind spots with a head check (a glance over your shoulder) whenever you change lanes, pass a vehicle, pull into traffic or adjust lane position.
Blind spots also refer to the areas ahead where your view is blocked by vehicles, trees or buildings. An intersection with a limited view is like one large blind spot. Blind spots at or between intersections can hide cars, bicycles and pedestrians.
You must avoid riding in the blind spots of others. Drivers may not see you because of doorposts or passengers. Their mirrors do not eliminate blind spots either.
The No-Zone refers to the blind spots around large trucks. These blind spots are on the sides, in the rear and in the front. You should avoid the No-Zone. Never cross behind a truck, bus or larger vehicle that is backing up. When passing or being passed at higher speeds, be ready for air turbulence that could affect you. When passing, be sure have a lot of space. At intersections, the right-side blind spot of a truck or bus is doubly dangerous because of wide turns.
A lane change procedure for a motorcycle is similar to a lane change for a car.
Check to see that the space you want to move into remains clear. Remember that because of curved, convex mirrors, objects are closer than they appear.
Use a head check to see what is not seen in your mirrors. Signal in advance and cancel the signal when in the new lane. Sometimes using a signal early will encourage a driver behind to give you more space, but avoid using a signal so early that someone thinks you are turning before you intend to.
Merging onto a freeway is similar to making a lane change.
- Watch for traffic behind you that will also enter the freeway.
- Try to match the speed of the traffic flow on the freeway before you reach the end of the on-ramp or acceleration lane.
- Have an escape path (often the shoulder area) if there is not a safe gap.
- Be cautious when your merging area is the same area that traffic uses to exit the freeway.
Riding through curves can be a lot of fun, but crash studies show running off the road accounts for many crashes. Do not push yourself by getting too bold. Use good judgment to stay well within your limits. Be sure to have a good entry speed and maintain your safety margins.
There are three general curve types:
- Constant radius, which has the same curvature throughout.
- Increasing radius, which has the curve open up.
- Decreasing radius, which has the curve close up and become progressively tighter.
There are three curve parts:
- Entry, which is the first part of the curve
- Apex, which is the middle or sharpest point in your path around the curve
- Exit, which is the last part of the curve
Finally, there are three lane positions:
- Outside, which is farthest away from the center line in a left-hand curve and nearest the center line in a right-hand curve.
- Middle, which is the center of the lane.
- Inside, which is nearest the center line in a left-hand curve and farthest from the center line in a right-hand curve.
Using three curve parts and three lane positions means you have 27 options.
To illustrate, you could choose an outside lane position upon entry, inside position at the apex, and outside position at the exit. Some riders use a delayed entry, late-apex strategy (staying outside past the entry point and using an apex past the center point in the curve). A wise rider will assume a curve has a decreasing radius and choose a good entry speed and apex.
A Middle-Middle-Middle strategy is a good conservative choice for any curve. It is especially helpful when riding through multiple curves, and on curves where debris or other vehicles are expected on both the right and left of the lane. When in doubt on a curve, use a middle-middle-middle strategy with a good entry speed.
An Outside-Inside-Outside strategy “widens” the radius of the turn in order to maximize traction and reduce lean angle, making this a good “default” riding path through different kinds of curves.
An Outside-Outside-Outside strategy requires more lean than an outside-inside-outside path, but is useful in avoiding debris or other vehicles inside the apex of the curve.
An Inside-Inside-Inside strategy requires a tighter turning radius than other paths, but can help maintain the largest safety margin for a right-hand curve if oncoming vehicles are observed erratically crossing the centerline.
An Outside-Inside-Inside strategy can be used if, while near the apex of a curve, you notice debris or other conditions that would prevent you from following your desired path.
When approaching a curve, remember to SEE, which means:
- Search for hazards
- Evaluate the situation
- Execute an appropriate response
Using SEE throughout the curve will help you make on-the-fly adjustments to keep a safety margin.
- Observe highway warning signs that inform you of curve direction and sharpness.
- Heed the posted speed, if there is one.
- Look as far ahead as you can to see what is beyond the curve and whether there - are more curves or elevation changes.
- Sometimes tree lines can help you determine what is coming up.
- If you cannot see the exit, predict the curve radius decreases.
- Consider the potential for oncoming traffic.
- Consider factors that could affect speed and lane position.
- Notice if the road is crowned or off-camber. These roads can affect cornering clearance and your reach to the ground at a stop.
- For very sharp curves, search for approaching vehicles that could be over the center line.
- Predict the worst to get the best results. For instance, imagine an obstacle is blocking your lane or there is gravel on the surface just beyond where you can see. Set your entry speed accordingly.
- Choose an entry speed and gear choice to provide the most options to adjust for conditions. You do not want to suddenly change gears or make abrupt speed changes in the middle of a curve.
- Consider a middle-middle-middle lane position as a default strategy.
- When appropriate, consider a delayed entry, late-apex strategy.
- Have an escape path throughout the curve.
- Be able to stop in the distance you can see.
- Smoothly and precisely use the controls.
- In left-hand curves, avoid getting too close to the center line so you are not leaning over it.
- Avoid the need to brake hard in a curve, as the motorcycle will typically want to stand up and take a wider path.
- If you need to lean a lot in a curve, place the balls of your feet on the footrests to keep your boots from touching the ground.
- If you find yourself running wide in a turn, look farther through the turn and press more on the inside handgrip to increase your lean. It helps to move your upper body to the inside of the turn so the motorcycle will stay more upright and not scrape parts when leaned.
Besides using SEE, the following general tips can also help you while riding through curves:
- Stay in your comfort zone and do not push yourself because of drivers or riders behind you.
- If you catch yourself pushing your limit or are making even minor errors, slow down. - Listen to your safety voice.
- Ride well within your skill limits and the tires’ traction limits (have a traction reserve). - Consider the traction for both the front and rear tires.
- If the terrain is hilly, use a lower gear so you have better throttle response. You can use the throttle to fine-tune your speed and lane position, especially if you are in the proper gear.
- Watch your speed in downhill curves. It may help to use a low gear to permit engine braking.
- When riding through lots of curves (like on mountainous roadways), be sure to breathe well to help you stay alert.
- For multiple curves, keep your speed under control and adjust lane position to keep a safety margin.
A recommended conservative approach for all curves is to use a middle-middle-middle strategy along with good judgment to adjust to conditions as needed. Remember the three-step cornering strategy Search-Setup-Smooth.
Maneuvering in a limited space can be challenging.
Making a tight, sharp turn or U-turn is an important skill to master. It helps you:
- In parking lots
- When turning around on the street
- Making a tight turn from a stop
When space is limited, find the combination of techniques that is best for you. These include:
- Use a very low speed and sharp handlebar turn.
- To control speed, use the friction zone and throttle in combination with or separate from the rear brake.
- Use a counterweight method, which means to put more weight toward the outside of the turn. This is done by increasing pressure on the outside footrest and leaning your upper body away from the turn. Also, you can move off the seat toward the outside of the turn.
- If making a tight turn from a stop, first turn the handlebars and lean the motorcycle before moving out.
- Turn your head and look through your intended path.
- Know that a sudden increase in speed will straighten up the motorcycle.
- As needed, touch a foot to the ground. This is called a dab.
- If space is very limited, you can power walk or stop and back up before finishing the turn.
A special procedure is needed to start out on an uphill grade.
A good way is to:
- Apply one of the brakes to prevent rolling backwards.
- If you need to keep both feet on the ground, use the front brake lever while easing out the clutch lever until you can apply some throttle.
- Use the friction zone to hold your position.
It is a good idea to practice the procedure in a parking lot or a lightly traveled street before needing to do it with traffic behind you.
Good searching skills help you avoid potholes, speed bumps and stationary objects.
If something cannot be avoided (like uneven railroad tracks), there are some specific actions you can take when riding over them.
If you need to cross over an obstacle or bumps:
- Slow as much as conditions permit.
- Approach at a 90-degree angle, if possible.
- Avoid fixating on the obstacle.
- Rise off the seat with your knees bent and against the tank.
- Use your legs as shock absorbers.
- Hold both handgrips firmly and do not cover the brake lever or clutch lever.
- Just before contact, shift your weight to the rear and blip, or abruptly roll-on the throttle to extend the front forks.
- Upon contact, abruptly roll off the throttle so the rear wheel is not under power when it crosses over the obstacle.
- Sit down when the motorcycle is stable.
- Continue to SEE.
Parking your motorcycle requires special actions.
- If parking in a parallel parking space next to a curb, position the motorcycle at an angle with the rear wheel to the curb, so it will be easier to pull out. (Note: Some cities have laws that require motorcycles to park parallel to the curb.)
- Position it to be visible to others.
- If using the side stand, turn the handlebars to full lock position to be more stable.
- Lock the forks and take the key.
- Park in a secure area with lots of lighting.
- Use a quality lock-and-chain and secure it through the frame.
- Consider adding a security alarm.
The side stand can sink into soft surfaces, and cause the motorcycle to fall.
- Use a thin, rigid object under the side stand.
- Be sure the stand provides stability on a sloped surface.
- Leave the motorcycle in first gear so it is less likely to roll.
- Use a motorcycle cover.
Road furniture refers to all roadside objects. Examples include:
- Road signs
- Guideposts
- Safety barriers
- Light and utility poles
- Mail boxes
- Bus shelters
- Fire hydrants
Make sure you include road furniture as part of your SEE strategy, as it may affect your possible escape paths.
The passing procedure for a motorcycle is similar to a passing procedure for a car. Do not pass more than one vehicle at a time on a 2-lane highway because the driver in front of the line may turn left and any driver could pull out to pass.
To complete your pass:
- Keep a good following distance and move to the left third of the lane.
- Have a safe passing gap ahead.
- Check your mirrors and blind spot with a head check, and turn on your turn signal.
- Change lanes and accelerate.
- Cancel your signal.
- Select a lane position that gives you space from the vehicle you are passing.
- When past the vehicle, check your mirror and blind spot with a head check, signal and return to your lane.
- Cancel your signal and resume a safe speed.
- Continue to SEE.
Drivers who tailgate pose a hazard. Do not let such a driver keep you from using RiderRadar. You should increase your distance from vehicles you are following so you have more time and space to stop. Then the tailgating driver will not need to make a quick stop because you won’t have to make a quick stop.
Some other options to respond to a tailgating driver are:
- Flash your brake light while maintaining speed to alert them.
- Change lanes.
- Turn off the road.
Should the driver behind you stay close, keep an escape path open to the left and right sides.
Riding at night reduces what you can see and what others can see. Some tips include:
- Wear bright, reflective materials.
- Use your high beam when you can.
- Use the lights of other vehicles to help you see what is ahead.
- Watch for tail lights that bounce because it could indicate a road surface hazard.
- Flash your brake light when slowing or when waiting at intersections.
- Add more approved lighting to your motorcycle.
Be sure your eye protection is free of scratches and smudges. Avoid using tinted or colored lenses at night.
You do not want to override the headlight. This happens when your total stopping distance exceeds the distance your light beam shows. Keep in mind objects can enter your path from the sides. You want to be able to stop in the distance you can see.
You want to have good basic skills before riding with others. Riding with others involves special considerations because there is a lot more to think about than when riding alone. Be sure to ride your own ride. Avoid group pressure to ride beyond your skill or comfort level. You want to keep your attention on your personal safety margin.
There is a classroom-only program, “Share the Adventure – Group Riding,” that provides details and tips about riding in a group. Information can be found on the Motorcycle Safety Foundation website. Tips to remember when riding in a group:
- Arrive ready with plenty of gasoline and check with the group leader for details about the ride.
- Learn common group riding signals.
- Use a staggered formation unless there is the need for single-file riding.
- Avoid side-by-side riding as the safety margin is less.
- For curves, use a single-file formation with at least a 2-second following distance.
- Avoid engine braking and use the brake light whenever slowing.
- Check riders ahead and behind often to maintain a safety margin.
- Avoid target fixation, especially on other riders you are with, so you can keep an active visual search pattern.
- When you pass, do so as an individual rider.
- Know what to do if you get separated from the group.
- Be predictable and follow group protocol as long as it is safe.
With general strategies and common situations covered, the next section will discuss basics for emergencies.
It is better to smoothly respond to a situation ahead of time than to abruptly react to an emergency at the last moment. We live in an imperfect world and people make mistakes. Being a safe rider also means having good crash-avoidance skills. In this section, you will learn about:
- Different Types of Braking Systems
- Making Emergency Stops
- How to Handle a Skid
- How to Properly Swerve
This section will take approximately 15 minutes to complete.
While most motorcycles have a front brake lever to apply the front brake and a rear brake pedal to apply the rear brake, braking systems can differ between models. Check your owner’s manual for variations, which may be one of the common setups shown here.
With Combined or Linked brakes, braking force is applied to both wheels when either control is used. The degree of braking force provided by each brake varies by design.
With Integrated brakes, pressing the rear brake pedal also applies some braking force to the front brake.
Anti-lock brakes, also called ABS, keep the wheels from locking or skidding when too much brake pressure is applied for surface conditions.
Making an emergency stop is an important skill. Practice often in a safe area. Use lower speeds and less than maximum brake pressure when developing your skill. Start your practice with straight-line stops.
The best way to achieve the shortest braking distance is to apply maximum brake pressure to front and rear brakes simultaneously without skidding either wheel. Squeeze the clutch lever and use the brake controls at the same time. Keep your body centered and look ahead. Squeeze your legs against the gas tank to help keep from sliding forward. Adjust your braking pressure as the weight of the motorcycle transfers forward by using less pressure on the rear brake pedal and more pressure on the front brake lever.
The ability to use the brakes fully without producing a skid is called threshold braking. This kind of braking takes a special feel for the controls. It is important to squeeze, not grab, the front brake lever and press, not jab, the rear brake pedal. Practice often in a safe area. Remember that surface conditions may affect how much pressure you can use, and you want to be ready to adjust the pressure for best results.
Making an emergency stop in a curve requires effective use of available traction for both leaning and braking. This means you should generally use less brake pressure in a curve than when braking in a straight line.
Basically, you have two choices:
- One is to straighten up first and make a quick stop in a straight line.
- The other is to apply some brake pressure while leaned and increase brake pressure as you straighten up.
To straighten up first, you must have enough space to complete the stop. If road and traffic conditions permit, straighten the motorcycle first and then square the handlebars (center the steering) before the brakes are applied.
To apply brake pressure while leaned, apply and adjust the brakes progressively. As your lean angle is reduced, apply more brake pressure. It is best to have the motorcycle straight up with the handlebars squared at the end of a stop.
Using too much front brake pressure can produce a skid. To keep from skidding, use the front brake lever with a smooth squeeze. If the front brake lever is grabbed before weight transfers forward and down, the wheel can stop turning and the front tire will skid. The result is a sudden loss of control. If a front-tire skid occurs, you must release the front brake lever to get the front wheel rolling again. Then apply the brake again as needed. Improper use of the front brake could cause a fall.
When slowing quickly, weight increases on the front tire and lightens on the rear tire. You have to adjust rear brake pressure so the rear tire does not skid.
A rear tire skid may cause the back of the motorcycle to skid sideways.
One option is to keep on the rear brake pedal so the wheel continues to skid and maintain balance to stay upright. Your path of travel will remain in the direction you were going when the skid began. Keep your head and eyes up.
If the rear wheel is nearly in line with the front wheel, you can release the rear brake pedal and then reapply it as needed.
Do not release the rear brake pedal when the rear wheel is not in line with the front wheel. If the rear wheel stops skidding and starts to roll, the motorcycle will quickly straighten and you can be thrown off in front of the motorcycle. This is called a high-side fall.
Swerving refers to an emergency procedure where you move quickly to the right or left, whether you are going straight or in a curve. There must be good traction and a clear path. Swerving skillfully requires practice.
Do not brake while making an aggressive swerve. Any braking while making the maneuver, even engine braking, may cause the tires to lose traction. If you can slow before swerving, do so and then release the brakes before initiating the swerve.
When swerving on a straight road, your initial press should be firm enough to cause the motorcycle to lean quickly.
Keep your torso upright, your knees against the tank, your feet on the footrests, and look toward your clear path. Do not fixate at what you are trying to miss. Be sure to have a clear path for the swerve back.
Swerving in a curve requires similar steering inputs, but additional traction is needed.
If the initial swerve is in the same direction as your lean, you need more lean angle. If the swerve is opposite the direction of your lean, a much greater lean angle will be needed to recover after the initial swerve.
The decision whether to brake first or swerve first in an emergency is critical.
Give yourself a large time-and-space safety margin so you have time to respond by either braking or swerving. This takes excellent Search skills so you can Evaluate and use your escape options. Keep in mind an escape option can change quickly if the hazard is moving. For example, a car pulling out in front of you could continue in its path, or stop.
If you brake without enough distance to stop, you crash at a reduced speed. If you swerve without slowing and do not have enough space to avoid the hazard, you crash at your original speed.
Let’s look at an example.
While riding on the highway, cargo from a truck ahead of you begins to fall into your lane. Do you brake first, or swerve first to avoid the debris?
Like most brake or swerve decisions, there is no absolute “right” answer, and your decision will depend on circumstances and include your judgment and riding skills. Since the debris could be moving in different directions as it falls from the truck, braking first may give you more time to choose your best escape path, and illuminating your brake light will warn vehicles behind you of the debris. On the other hand, swerving first could more quickly remove you from the path of the debris, and could prevent you from being rear-ended by a vehicle behind you.
Riding a motorcycle can involve a variety of special situations, which will be addressed in the next section.
Part of being a good rider means being prepared for special riding situations like:
- A Variety of Road Surfaces
- Carrying Passengers and Extra Weight
- Touring
- Riding in Windy Conditions
- Avoiding Animals
- Select Maintenance Issues
While you may not encounter these situations on every ride, being prepared for them can keep you safe.
Motorcycles are designed to travel across a wide variety of road surfaces, but may handle differently on each. Part of being a good rider is understanding and compensating for different road surfaces.
Roads are most slick during the first few minutes of rain because oil and dirt mix with the water. It may be best to stop in a safe area and wait out the situation. Reduce speed and minimize lean. Metal covers, bridge gratings, train tracks, painted or taped lines, leaves, and wood can be very slick when wet.
When you ride in the rain, use the tire tracks left by cars to help prevent hydroplaning. Hydroplaning occurs when water builds up under the tire contact patch and results in loss of traction. Maintaining proper tire pressure will help keep the grooves in your tread open and able to channel water away for better traction.
Ruts can form in areas of heavy traffic. They can make handling your motorcycle difficult and may even cause damage if you hit them hard. Also, rain builds up in these areas and increases the chance of hydroplaning. Avoid these ruts when possible.
Be aware of sand, gravel, rocks, and trash. The same is true for liquids such as fuel, oil or engine coolant. Look out for shiny or damp pavement. Watch for items that might cause tire damage such as nails or sharp metal objects.
Use a good lane position, especially in curves, to give yourself time and space to adjust your path of travel. Avoid following vehicles such as trucks or trailers that are hauling debris, as items could come loose and fall into your path.
Crack sealant and tar strips can be slick, especially in wet or hot weather. Notice them early and adjust lane position. Avoid too much lean.
These areas can be very slick. Identify them early and reduce speed. When crossing slick patches, you may want to keep the clutch lever squeezed and avoid leaning. Use your feet as outriggers as needed, remembering they may slip too. Brake use must be gentle.
A crowned road is one that is high in the middle to drain water. Off-camber roads slope away from the direction of the curve. Use caution in left curves because ground clearance may be less than on a flat road.
These cause the tires to feel loose, but they pose no serious threat. Keep steering relaxed and avoid quick actions.
These are like obstacles, so cross them at close to a 90-degree angle. Keep speed under control and maintain momentum. Rise off the seat and keep your weight evenly distributed. For angled railroad tracks, it is usually safe to ride straight across them. For tracks or road seams that run in the same direction as your path, move far away enough so you can steer to cross them at 45 degrees or more.
You should be a skilled rider before you carry a passenger or extra weight because it affects the way your motorcycle handles. Starting from a stop is more difficult and it takes longer to get up to speed. More time will be required for passing. More brake pressure will be needed for stopping. The motorcycle will handle differently. The suspension and tire pressure will need to be adjusted per the owner’s manual.
When you carry a passenger:
- The motorcycle should be equipped to carry a passenger, which includes proper seating behind the operator and passenger footrests. A passenger should be tall enough to reach the footrests and strong enough to hold onto the operator or passenger hand-holds.
- Be sure the passenger wears all of the proper protective gear.
- While the passenger mounts, keep both feet on the ground and the front brake lever applied.
- Be extra smooth and go easy on lean angles.
Have the passenger follow these rules:
- Hold your waist or hips, or use the passenger hand-holds.
- Keep feet on their footrests at all times, including when stopped.
- Keep hands and feet away from hot or moving parts.
- In turns and curves, look over your shoulder in the direction of the turn or curve.
- Avoid leaning too much or turning around.
- When crossing an obstacle, rise slightly off the seat.
Like carrying a passenger, carrying extra weight or cargo can also change the way a motorcycle handles.
When carrying extra weight or cargo:
- Do not exceed the motorcycle’s load limit as provided in the motorcycle owner’s manual.
- Keep items low and close to the center of the motorcycle.
- Keep items evenly balanced from side to side.
- Place heavier items in the load triangle, the space formed between the top of your head and the two axles.
- Do not overload the saddlebags or tank bag.
- If you use a tank bag, be sure it does not interfere with handlebar movement.
- Carrying weight on the rear will lighten the front wheel and may affect handling.
- Never strap items to the handlebars, front forks or front fender. Even if the handlebar and suspension movement are not limited, the extra weight can affect steering.
- Do not block lights or moving parts, and keep items away from mufflers.
- Be sure the load is secure. Use accessory racks and luggage designed for your motorcycle.
- Be sure there are no loose items to blow around or get caught in the wheels.
- Be sure loose items are securely attached with web straps, bungee cords, cargo nets, or similar fasteners.
- If you use bungee cords or elastic nets, be sure the ends are secure and that a stretched cord does not snap back and injure you.
Touring refers to riding longer distances, perhaps over several days, and is much different than commuting or short-distance rides. Proper planning is a must. Consider potential weather conditions and make plenty of stops to avoid fatigue. Carry the proper clothing so you can dress in layers as needed, and have enough tools to make repairs if trouble arises.
Carry extra food and drinks if you will be in remote areas, and consider the lack of cell phone coverage. Emergency services may be some distance away. Let someone know your plans, especially if you will be traveling alone.
Strong, steady winds or gusty winds can affect your path. The force of the wind can cause you to move within your lane or even out of your lane. Gusty winds often occur in open areas or mountains. Steady winds require you to adjust your input on the handgrips. Be ready for wind that changes quickly.
Maintain contact with the motorcycle by squeezing your knees against the tank.
Also be prepared for air turbulence or vacuum effects around large vehicles. This can affect you when you pass or are being passed. Be prepared for the effects of large oncoming vehicles and be especially careful in rainy and wet conditions.
Dogs like to chase motorcycles. A good response is to:
- Slow
- Downshift
- Accelerate past the dog
Do not kick at the dog as that may injure the dog or upset your balance.
Larger animals such as deer or elk can be a problem. These animals tend to wander about, and hitting one can be as harmful as crashing into another vehicle. If a large animal is on or near the roadway, stop before reaching it and wait until it leaves. Keep searching because more than one may be present.
Watch the animations on this page for more information about avoiding animals.
With modern tubeless tires, a blowout is rare. But riding with tire pressure that is too low causes a tire to overheat and possibly fail. Low pressure also increases tire wear and decreases fuel economy, costing you money. Check your tires frequently, and keep them properly inflated.
Check the pressure when the tires are cool, before the ride. Be sure the tire tread is adequate by checking for the wear bars molded into the tires. Buy the right tires for your motorcycle and have them professionally installed.
If a tire fails, hold the handgrips firmly without fighting the steering. Avoid shifting and braking until speed is under control. If traffic permits, slow gradually and move off the roadway.
If braking is necessary, use the brake on the wheel with the good tire. Using the brake on the wheel with the bad tire can cause the tire to separate from the rim. If your bike has a combination braking system, keep your brake pressure as gentle as possible.
Although rare, a throttle may stick. If this happens, twist the throttle back and forth several times. If the throttle cable is stuck, this may free it.
If the throttle stays stuck, immediately squeeze in the clutch lever and operate the engine cut-off switch. This will remove power from the rear wheel, though the engine sound may not immediately decline.
Once the motorcycle is under control, stop in a safe place. After you have stopped, check the throttle cable. Make certain the throttle works freely before you ride again.
Many motorcycles use a cable to operate the clutch. If the cable breaks, the clutch remains fully engaged. This is not a cause for panic. If it breaks while stopped, brake firmly to stall the engine.
If it happens while riding, the motorcycle can still be ridden but it will be more difficult to change gears. When you need to stop, slow down gradually and downshift when speed permits. Shift to neutral before stopping to avoid a jerky stop or stalling the engine. Get the cable replaced right away.
A weave is a relatively slow swaying of the rear of the motorcycle. A wobble is a rapid, strong shaking of the handlebars. These are problems usually caused by excessive weight in the wrong place, by a mechanical problem, or by improper tire pressure.
For either problem, your response is the same.
- Keep a firm hold on the handgrips without locking your arms or fighting the steering
- Ease off the throttle
- Do not apply the brakes and do not accelerate
In some cases, it helps to shift your weight forward by leaning over the tank. Be sure to get the cause of the problem corrected.
The drive train for a motorcycle uses a chain, belt, or drive shaft to transfer power from the engine to the rear wheel.
A chain or belt that slips or breaks while you are riding could lock the rear wheel and cause the motorcycle to skid. If a chain or belt breaks, you will notice an instant loss of power; close the throttle and brake to stop in a safe area.
On a motorcycle with a drive shaft, loss of oil in the rear differential can cause the rear wheel to lock, and you may not be able to prevent a skid. Routine inspection, adjustment, and maintenance make failure a rare occurrence.
If an engine locks or freezes, it is usually low on oil. The engine’s moving parts cannot move smoothly against each other, and the engine overheats.
The first sign may be a loss of engine power or a change in the engine’s sound. Squeeze the clutch lever to disengage the engine from the rear wheel. Move off the road and stop. Check the oil. If needed, the oil should be added as soon as possible or the engine will seize. When this happens, the effect is the same as a locked rear wheel. Let the engine cool before restarting.
The next section will describe rider impairment.
You already know riding safely requires you to manage risks every time you start the engine. But if you are impaired by factors like alcohol, drugs, fatigue, emotions, or even changes that come from aging, how does it affect your riding?
It’s no secret, impairments raise your risk, and bringing anything less than your best skills and judgment to motorcycling could lead to unwelcome consequences.
This section will take approximately 15 minutes to complete.
Alcohol is a drug and a major contributor to crashes. It reduces your ability to search for hazards, evaluate factors, and execute physical actions.
Research shows that almost 50 percent of the riders killed in crashes had been drinking before taking off. Two-thirds of those riders had alcohol levels below the legal limit. Even one drink can impair skills.
Depressant drugs, such as alcohol, slow down the body’s functions. Alcohol enters the blood quickly and gets to the brain. The effects begin after the first drink, and worsen as the drug builds up in the bloodstream. Judgment and vision are usually the first abilities to suffer and fade when drinking alcohol. Most people are affected by one drink.
Blood alcohol content, or B.A.C. is determined by three factors:
- The amount of alcohol consumed
- How fast it is consumed
- The drinker’s body weight
Do all of these drinks contain the same amount of alcohol?
All of these drinks contains about one-half ounce of pure ethyl alcohol. Note: some mixed drinks may contain more than one shot of liquor.
Drinking faster than the body can eliminate the alcohol causes it to accumulate in the blood. The adult male body is able to get rid of alcohol at the rate of almost one drink per hour. If a male consumed two drinks in an hour, at the end of that hour, the alcohol from one drink is eliminated, and the alcohol from one drink remains in the blood. If four drinks are consumed in an hour, at the end of that hour, the alcohol from three drinks will remain in the blood. Women process alcohol at about three-fourths of that rate.
A higher BAC means greater impairment. People who try to manage their BAC usually do not have much success because their judgment is impaired. A person is impaired before reaching the legal limit.
It is absolutely vital to separate drinking from riding for those who drink. It is also important to avoid riding with impaired riders or carrying passengers who are impaired. They can make you crash.
Alcohol is not the only drug that affects the ability to ride safely. Other drugs like many over-the-counter and prescription drugs, as well as illegal drugs, have effects that increase risk.
These can have depressing effects or stimulating effects. Depressing effects, such as alcohol’s, are well known. Stimulating drugs can be harmful because they can cause you to ride aggressively. Stimulating drugs can wear off suddenly and result in extreme fatigue.
Marijuana use has been shown to produce impairment that could affect the ability to make safe riding decisions. Some of these impairments are like mental blind spots that make searching and evaluating accurately more difficult.
Intervention is an attempt to stop someone from doing something dangerous. A group of riders can intervene to keep an impaired rider from getting on a motorcycle. It may be difficult, but the payoff can be life-saving.
Here are some tips to help keep someone from riding after drinking:
- Enlist others to help.
- Call for a cab or other transportation for the impaired rider.
- Slow the pace of drinking.
- Delay departure.
- Provide alcohol-free drinks and food.
- Keep the motorcycle parked. If the rider cannot be stopped, consider hiding the keys.
Full attention is needed to be safe on the road. Drivers commonly use cell phones and other mobile devices. They can be eating or talking to passengers. They may be taking medication. It is up to you to be focused on your task to make up for the distracted behavior of others. Assume others are distracted and do not see you. You can only do this by not being distracted yourself.
Fatigue is an increasingly common factor in crashes, and being fatigued or drowsy raises your risk. It may be you had a poor night’s sleep or had an especially difficult day at work. When you are tired, your senses are not as sharp.
- You will not be as likely to see or recognize potential hazards or situations.
- Your decision-making is slowed.
- Your physical actions are not as quick or accurate.
You will need more time and space to SEE and a more-than-usual safety margin. A wise rider will stop for a short rest.
It is not easy to determine the effects of emotions on riding, but feeling angry, troubled, or stressed makes safe riding more difficult. Any emotion that keeps you from using a safety strategy will increase risk. Make an honest assessment of your priorities and keep safety top-of-mind.
Being overconfident, or even under-confident, can result in poor riding decisions. You could put yourself in situations that require more skill than you have or that your motorcycle is capable of doing. Have self-awareness and foresight to confidently make decisions to reduce risk so you can take charge of your own safety. You want to be realistic about your capabilities and limitations as well as what your motorcycle can and cannot do. This way you can make better, safer decisions in those moments of choice.
You want to enjoy motorcycling to the fullest for many years. Know how aging affects you so you can correct or compensate as needed.
While getting older usually brings wisdom and better judgment, aging affects health as well as many of the important physical tasks for safe riding. Vision and reaction time are examples.
It is important to stay fit and healthy to enjoy all aspects of life, but because motorcycling is demanding, you should take special steps. Keep up with eye and physical exams. Know if medications affect your skill and perception. Take note when others comment on your riding ability.
You can help yourself by increasing your safety margins, using a greater following distance, and avoiding riding at night. Practice your riding skills often so your actions are precise, especially for emergency maneuvers such as hard braking and quick swerving. Consider the value of additional formal training.
If you find yourself having difficulty riding the way you used to, consider getting a smaller motorcycle, or even a scooter or three-wheel motorcycle.
Motorcycling is a great way to travel. The feeling of freedom and exhilaration are part of nearly every ride. Using poor judgment, however, can lead to high-risk riding. Some ride at the edge or near the very limits of crashing. Aggressive riding such as challenging the road (such as testing how fast a corner can be ridden or competing with other riders) should be taken to a racetrack. Many track days and track schools are available around the country. Stunting has no place on public roads.
Safety requires riders and drivers to be predictable, courteous, and cooperative. Remember to maintain good risk offset.
The riding skill you have should exceed the risk you take, and this takes rider character. You have to choose safe and responsible actions instead of risky moves. To be a safe motorcyclist and be able to look forward to a lifetime of great riding, you always have to make the choice to do the right thing.
The next section will help you prepare for the Range Riding segment of the Basic RiderCourse.
Before you start the hands-on range exercises, you will want to be familiar with:
- The range safety rules
- Personal preparation
- Common RiderCoach signals
- The general sequence within each range exercise
We will learn about all of these topics in this section.
This section will take approximately 15 minutes to complete.
The range safety rules help keep learning positive. You must follow these rules:
- Do not practice without RiderCoach permission.
- Always wear all your protective gear when seated on the motorcycle, even when the engine is off.
- Know the location of the engine cut-off switch and how to use it.
- Keep the clutch lever covered during early skill development (especially the first few exercises). This is because a quick squeeze of the clutch lever will remove engine power from the rear wheel. Always be prepared to reach and squeeze it.
- If you start to accelerate out of control, squeeze in the clutch lever and apply the brakes.
- Be ready to roll off the throttle to use the front brake lever. Keep your fingers around the throttle with your wrist flat to help with handlebar and throttle control.
- Keep a time-and-space margin of safety; check front, sides and rear before moving out.
- Yield to other riders as necessary.
- Use courtesy and cooperation when sharing the range.
- Do not pass other riders unless directed to do so.
- If you have a problem, move out of the path of travel if you can, and stop. A RiderCoach will assist you.
- Stop smoothly in position if you see or hear a group stop signal.
- If you get behind in an exercise, do not rush to catch up. Take your time.
- If you have a tip-over, do not pick up the motorcycle. Be sure the engine is off. A RiderCoach will help.
- If you do not understand an exercise or become too uncomfortable to ride it safely, let a RiderCoach know.
Before your range activity, be sure to prepare yourself. This includes:
- Getting a good night’s rest
- Knowing the range location
- Being on time, or early
- Having proper protective gear, which includes:
- Long-sleeve shirt or jacket
- Full-fingered gloves
- Long pants
- Over-the-ankle boots or shoes
- Having sun and rain protection
- Having water and snacks
A helmet and eye protection will be provided at the site unless you bring your own.
Contact your training site administrator as soon as possible if you have any questions about where to go or what to bring with you.
There are 14 riding exercises before the skill test. The exercises give you a step-by-step, building block process for learning to ride. You are allowed to ask questions at any time. Here is what happens in each exercise:
- Your RiderCoach tells you the name of the exercise and the objective. Listen closely to the objective because it will help you focus your learning.
- The general range setup will be described so you know what parts of the range are used.
- You will be given specific instructions and a demonstration of where to go and what to do.
- Many exercises include practice on the motorcycle with the engine off before actually riding. These simulated practices will have you think about what you will do on the range.
Upon exercise completion, you may be asked questions like: What went well and why? What do you need to improve upon? These questions help you understand the value of the skill and develop the habit of thinking and reflecting about what you have experienced. Future success requires self-assessment, which is taking a look at yourself and how you are doing.