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Last active August 12, 2023 16:13
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Sebastian's guide to Stockholm

Sebastian's guide to Stockholm

Where to stay

I always stay with family when I visit, so I don't have a lot of first-hand experience with the accommodation in Stockholm. I'd advise checking out AirBNB as well as hotels though.

  • For a central location, stay in Norrmalm or Östermalm.
    • The best spots (and also most expensive) are on Blaiseholmen and around Nybroviken.
    • There are plenty of places around Centralstationen (Central Station) on Vasagatan as well.
    • Some hotels that I hear are decent: Freys, Royal Viking, Diplomat, Esplanade, Hotel Skeppsholmen, Haymarket, Miss Clara, Kung Carl, Berns--and Grand Hotel of course (though very expensive).
  • Gamla Stan is also centrally located. Some good spots here too!
    • Check out Reisen, Lord Nelson.
  • Kungsholmen, Vasastan and Södermalm are all viable alternatives that are still quite well-located but not as expensive.
  • I would avoid staying on Djurgården. It's nice out there, but harder to get to and from.
  • Definitely avoid staying near Slussen. They're on a many-year project to rebuild it, so lots of construction going on.

How to get around

  • Stockholm has excellent public transport. Get an SL kort (SL card), which you can get from most convenience stores or public transport stations. For convenience I recommend getting a travelcard that gives unlimited access for 1, 3, 7, or 30 days. You can extend by those periods, so if you're there for four days you don't have to get the 7 day option--you can get a 3 day card and then an extra 1 day.
    • If you're in the city, you'll mostly use Tunnelbanan (the subway) to get around. Many of the subway stations are gorgeous (especially on the blue line) and worth visiting in their own right.
    • There are plenty of buses that can take you around. Ask for directions, though! It can be hard to figure out which bus goes where.
    • Commuter trains go out to the furthest suburbs. Unless you have a specific reason to go out there, though, you won't need to use them.
  • Taxis are expensive. Uber is getting better and better, so that's another alternative.
  • Walk! Stockholm is pretty easy to walk around (except for during winter).

What to do

  • Stockholm is a wonderful city in the right weather. Walk along the water near Strandvägen and around Blaiseholmen.
  • Go for a late afternoon/early evening walk in Gamla Stan (Old Town). It's (unsurprisingly) the oldest part of Stockholm and is very beautiful.
    • Walk through Kungsträdgården and across Strömbron to get there. Gorgeous walk.
    • Have a "fika" (coffee + snack) at one of the cafes at Järntorget. I like Sundbergs Konditori.
    • Walk down Västerlånggatan and try not to feel appalled at the tourist shops.
  • If you have time, consider getting a boat tour of the Stockholm archipelago. There are many options, ranging from a few hours to a full day to several days. The scenery is beautiful, the islands the tour visits will be interesting. Very relaxing.
    • I did the "Thousand Island Cruise" and it was incredible.
    • You can also do a boat tour around the canals of Stockholm instead of going out into the archipelago.
    • Rather than a tour, you can just get a ferry to Sandhamn and spend a few hours there.
  • Lots to do on Djurgården:
    • The Vasa Museum is a bit touristy but definitely worth a visit. Depending on time of year it can be very busy. Get there early. The museum restaurant is pretty good as well.
    • Skansen is part zoo, part open air museum that displays several centuries of Swedish history.
    • If you're into amusement parks, Gröna Lund is pretty good. Only open half the year, because Swedish winter and amusement parks don't mix.
  • For shopping, you'll likely want Drottninggatan, Hamngatan, or Sergel's Torg (which conveniently is the middle point between the two streets). Lovely area to just walk around as well!
  • Other museums, if that's your thing, are Moderna Muséet (Museum of Modern Art), Fotografiska (Museum of Contemporary Photography) and Livrustkammaren (The Royal Armory).
  • For more tourist things, Stadshuset (City Hall) and the Royal Palace are other things to do in the city, and Drottningholm Palace outside of the city is nice too.

What to eat and drink

Restaurants

  • I was finally able to go to Gastrologik (Gastrology/Gastro logic) in Östermalm last time I was in Stockholm. It's a two Michelin star restaurant specialising in Swedish produce, where you'll get a 20-ish course degustation meal using whatever produce is in season at the time. The food is, as you expect, extraordinary, as is the service and decor. It's very very expensive, and to be safe you should book about a month in advance. Get the drink pairing, either alcoholic or non-alcoholic.
  • Fem Små Hus (Five Small Houses) in Gamla Stan. Upmarket traditional Swedish food. Often has excellent game-y meats like moose or raindeer. I go here every time I'm in Stockholm and it's usually one of the best meals of the trip. You'll likely need a booking.
  • Tradition in Gamla Stan. Also traditional Swedish food but a bit more relaxed. Excellent food. Try the meatballs or--if you're up to it--the blood pudding. Get the "Björk" aperitif to start, which a spirit distilled from birch sap. Book just in case, though it's not impossible to get a walk-in table.
  • Sturehof at Stureplan in Östermalm. Specializes in fish.
  • Prinsen (The Prince) in Östermalm is another upscale traditional Swedish food place.
  • Pelikan on Södermalm serves great food, mostly of the traditional Swedish variety. It can be a bit noisy when busy and a booking is recommended for most days, but you can get lucky and get a walk-in table.
  • Operakällaren (The Opera Cellar) near Kungsträdgården is one of Stockholm's most famous restaurants, which has a Michelin star. The decor is amazing and the food is great. If you're in Stockholm in December, book in for their "Julbord" (Christmas Table).
  • I haven't been, but Supper in Vasastan comes highly recommended from friends. Spanish tapas-style menu. It's apparently relatively easy to get in if there's two of you, but larger parties require bookings.
  • Perhaps not a restaurant per se, but Hötorgshallen near Hötorget is a deli/market that has lots of food options. I recommend a kebab (yes, really), or fish at Kajsas Fisk.
  • On Djurgården, I like Blå Porten (Blue Door), and Godthem.
  • Other good restaurants in Gamla Stan: Magnus Ladulås, The Flying Elk, Bistro Nobel.
  • Other good restaurants in Norrmalm/Östermalm: B.A.R., Operabaren, Wasahof, Riche, Grodan (The Frog).
  • Östgötakällaren

Pubs/bars

  • Pharmarium may just be the best cocktail bar in Stockholm. It's situated in Gamla Stan, in the exact same spot as Sweden's first pharmacy in the 1500s. They have an interesting and constantly evolving cocktail menu, skilled bartenders, excellent service, and amazing decor. They get busy so bookings are recommended, especially for parties larger than two.
  • Tennstopet i Vasastan is a Stockholm institution. Very cool atmosphere and good drinks. They have food too but I've not eaten there: great for a drink though.
  • Himlen (Heaven) on Södermalm is a skybar with spectacular views both during the day and at night. It's also a restaurant, but I've never eaten there so I can't vouch for the food.
  • Ardbeg Embassy in Gamla Stan has a large whisky selection and 20+ different kinds of (mostly Swedish) beers on tap. If neither whisky or beer is your thing, the wine list may be small but it's not bad.
  • One of my favourites is af Chapman, which is a boat attached to Skeppsholmen that's been remade into a hostel. Go there for an afternoon drink. Maybe not in winter though.
  • Engelen (The Angel) in Gamla Stan is always good for a drink. They often have live bands.
  • Kvarnen (The Mill) on Södermalm is nice.
  • Sky Bar near T-Centralen is well-situated and decent for a quiet drink. You'll need to go through the lobby of the Radisson hotel to get there.
  • A lot of the nightlife happens on Östermalm, particularly near Stureplan.

Cafes

  • Mr Cake
  • Gunnarssons
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