If you are here then you are thinking about using the insane res build. While it was primarily created for those with very warped build surfaces it will nevertheless still be usable by those using surfaces that are not warped and it should not cost much in terms of time before each print. In fact it is likely to save you time before each print.
Both systems are very similar. ABL however is more suited to probing the entire bed before each print whereas UBL is better suited to probing the entire bed on a once off basis and then only doing a quick probe before a print to determine whether the bed has shifted in orientation at all. ABL could technically produce the same resolution as UBL however it would require a detailed probe of the entire bed before each print which would take forever.
Both systems create a mesh of the bed which helps Marlin to understand how to adjust the height of the nozzle as it moves over the bed.
In general, ABL will do a 3 x 3 probe of the bed to create a mesh. Imagine trying to draw a picture the size of your bed but only being given the chance to connect 9 dots together to create the whole picture...it will not have much detail. This UBL branch creates a 15x15 probe of the bed. Suddenly the picture has a lot more detail! The images below show a 3 x 3 mesh vs a 15 x 15 mesh of the same bed. As you can imagine the 15 x 15 mesh produces a far better result.
I personally prefer this branch even with a glass bed so I can't blame you. However you do need to be aware of a few points which I have listed below:
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This is in beta. As such there may still be a few glitches but I think I have them mostly ironed out.
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Don't try to use this with the stock BL touch mount. You will need to use the mount made by Keith Bennett which is listed here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4564987. This allows for a greater portion of the bed to be probed. Using it with the stock mount will likely result in the nozzle crashing into the bed.
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The firmware has been designed to probe extremely close to the edges of the bed. This means that you will be pushing the X and Y axes right to their travel limits in order to reach as far as possible. Make sure that there is nothing blocking the movement on each axis before starting.
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Becuase each axis is being pushed to the limit your nozzle will come very close to the bed strain relief adapter at the left rear of the bed. You will need to print this shim which will drop your BL touch lower so that the nozzle just misses the strain relief adapter. Usually 2mm is enough but some have reported that they need to stack a 2mm and a 1mm shim. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3125269/files
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As with the other ABL branches, you need to completely remove the z-endstop before using this branch. Unplugging it alone is not enough.
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The TFT cannot display the full 15 x 15 grid since there is simply not enough space. If you want to see the full grid you will need to connect to the machine using the USB cable and then send G29 T. This will return the grid which you can then paste here to visualize (after editing the row and column numbers out): http://lokspace.eu/3d-printer-auto-bed-leveling-mesh-visualizer/
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If you are using a glass bed with clips then this ##will## crash into your clips because it probes so close to the edges with so much detail. A better arrangement for a glass bed is to use adhesive to stick it to the magnetic bed and then you have a magnetic glass bed. Some users have done this and reported successful results.
If you are happy with those points and want to go ahead then continue reading...
Install the UBL branch in the same way that you would any other branch. You will also need to ensure that you are using the latest TFT firmware which is also in the main repo.
Once you have installed it you will find that the TFT automatically adjusts the bed levelling menu to show UBL options in place of ABL options.
Before your first print, navigate to Menu --> Movement --> Bed level --> UBL. There you will find the option to start a probe. First pre-heat the bed and then select this option and be ready for a probe that will take around 15 minutes to complete. Stay near to the printer while it is probing so that you can watch to see whether the probe is going to miss the bed at any point. At the end of the process you will receive a message saying that it has filled in missing points. Don't worry, it never missed any points. This is just a standard UBL message because usually UBL is not designed to reach the whole bed.
Once the probe is complete, save it into both slot 0 and slot 1. Accept the EEPROM message when it appears after each save. Now head over to your z-offset menu and make sure that it is set and saved correctly. Remember that you should be able to feel a tiny bit of frition on a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed when the setting is at the right level.
The main probe is now complete and a detailed mesh of your bed has been saved. All that is required is to perform a three point probe before each print to ensure that the bed is still in the same oritentation that Marlin expects. To do this you will need to change the start code for the B1 in cura. Find the line that reads G29 and change it to three separate lines that read:
G29 A
G29 L1
G29 J
Re-slice the print that you want to use, load it into the printer and go for it.
It took quite a bit of effort to put this firmware branch out. I don't ask for donations because I personally benefit from a lot of community projects and am not in a financial position to donate to all of the projects that I benefit from and so I don't expect it to work any different for me in reverse. However, I do like to see results where people use this, good or bad. The good results result in that warm fuzzy feeling knowing that someone has benefitted from the work. The bad results help me to make it better :) So if you have the time, please post some results in the comments here or on the BIQU B1 facebook group.
Thank you for the prompt response. I never considered that it might be due to the physical setup of my printer, and assumed it was something to do with software/firmware settings.
What you are saying does make sense though as I had the same problem with your high res ABL version which lef me to the insane UBL one, and I cound't see how it was still happening. I will take a look at your video and hope that helps. I will report back, thanks a lot for your suggestion and all the work you have put into providing these firmwares for others. I feel I am soooo close to making it work, and I need to as my bed is warped all to hell (If I can't get it to work I guess I can go glass however) Thanks.