Like other consumer electronics, vape products often contain Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) batteries that can erupt into flames or explode when not handled with due care. Store vape products in ventillated areas, out of direct sunlight. Do not stow vape products in the main cabin of airplanes, which is unpressurized and can trigger flames and explosions.
Contents intended for adults only. Consume at your own risk.
Vaping is a modern twist on traditional smoking. In contrast to combustion, vaping uses a lower temperature--just enough to "atomize" substances into flavorful clouds.
Some ejuice vaping substances include classic flavors, such as tobacco, menthol, vanilla, cannabis, and so on. However, vaping carries different risks than smoking. For example, vaping is more likely to present harmful heavy metals than pipe smoking, hookahs, cigar smoking, or cigarettes. Just like smoking, it is probably better not to smoke or vape at all, than to do either one.
However, for overall oral health, vaping is considered by the community to offset the most hazardous effects of traditional smoking. Many smokers are turning to vaping as a way to improve dental and lung health.
The vaping consumption pattern is more continuous; even a small vaping tank can last for days on end, much longer than a cigarette. The fainter, pleasant aroma of vaping is less likely to stain domiciles and automobiles or offend nonsmokers/nonvapers. In time, society may very well adopt altogether new customs for vaping, given the many conveniences of vaping compared to traditional smoking.
The most common vaping substances are nicotine and cannabinoids. Due to the visual similarities of these two kinds of vaping products, it's always a good idea to clarify which substance is being vaped when sharing.
Nicotine, and to a greater extent, propylene glycol (PG), are both hazardous to pets and children. Keep vaping products away.
For adults, the most common daily risks of vaping include leaking ejuice onto skin, clothing, and so on. This can happen with poor quality vape products, or poorly wicked atomizers.
Expect some condensation when consuming vape products. This tends to gather around air intake sections on vaping devices.
In the event of a leak, wipe up the spill. If the problem persists, consult the manual or contact customer support for your vaping components.
Ecigs provide a straightforward transition from traditional cigarettes into the world of vaping. These are often sold in convenience stories. An LED lights up at the far end, mimicking the traditional glow of a lit cigarette.
Many disposables are suction activated; Simply start breathing in from the device and it turns on. When you pull away, the device turns off.
Vaping pod systems reduce plastic waste. These tend to feature a rechargeable battery, such as with a USB-C charge port. The vaper can quickly snap pods with assorted ejuice flavors, onto the base "mod" that provides power. Replace the pods when tired of flavor, or when the tank is empty.
Reusable vape devices tend to use a multiclick on/off system, such as 3 clicks or 5 clicks. Various models may include separate button combinations for controlling intensity and other settings.
Regulated vape mods furthermore often feature automatic power down after a period of inactivity.
Vaping systems with 510 pins at the connection between the ejuice atomizer and the mod reduce waste even further than pod systems. As well, 510 pin vapes offer a wider degree of customization and compatibility with additional vaping products.
510 pin vapes occur mainly in two form factors: vape "pens" and vape "mods."
Vape pens are quite small and thin, intended for disposable 510 pin vape tanks.
Vape mods are larger, often capable of holding long lasting 18650 or 21700 Li-Ion batteries, and supporting larger ejuice tanks.
Vape mods also support "sub ohm" tanks, a middle ground between disposable components and the highest degree of repairability. Caution: Never use a sub ohm tank on a mechanical vape mod. This is because too many sub ohm tanks have historically featured spring assited 510 pin connections, which introduces additional risk of short circuiting in mechanical mods.
Do not use salt nicotine ejuice with 510 pin mods or boro mods. The effective nicotine dosage may be too high, and the vaping hit may feel harsh.
Rebuildable atomizers elevate the quality of vaping components. Whereas sub ohm tanks and other disposable tanks are designed for use for only a few weeks or months, rebuildable atomizers can be serviced and reused for years.
Rebuildable atomizers come in a number of different form factors:
Rebuildable Drip Atomizers (RDAs) continue the style of some of the earliest vaping products to ever enter the market. After building the atomizer coil and wicking the tank, you can refill an RDA by simply squeezing some drops of ejuice into the wide opening. These are often incredibly simple to learn to use, and provide a fun way to sample a buffet of drips and drops of different ejuices.
Rebuildable Tank Atomizers (RTAs) operate like RDAs, but with an extra feature. RTAs include a reservoir tank to hold some extra mL of ejuice. An RDA may dry up in a few minutes of heavy vaping, while an RTA can continue to provide fluffy vape clouds for hours. Vapers who consume on long road trips may prefer RTAs, which help to keep your concentration on driving rather than fussing with too many vaping components. RTAs have a fill port or screw mechanism to access the reservoir.
Rebuildable Drip Tank Atomizers (RDTAs) provide the large drippable entrance of an RDA and the reservoir of an RTA. These can be topped off similarly to an RDA faster than accessing the RTA reservoir.
Rebuildable Boro Atomizers (RBAs) also have a reservoir tank. Whereas RTAs screw on top of vape mods, RBAs are designed to fit snugly inside of boro mods. This gives the entire vape a more compact form, and presents a window for the vaper to showcase and monitor the atomizer. Unlike RDAs and RTAs, RBAs do not fit most vape mods; again, RBAs only fit boro mods.
Mouth To Lung (MTL) and Direct Lung (DL) represent another dimension of vaping components. Mouth To Lung tends to narrow the airflow throughout the vape, while Direct Lung tends to open the airflow wide. RDAs, RTAs, RDTAs, and RBAs are often designed primarily for either MTL or primarily DL usage, though they can often be build arbitrarily with a specific MTL coil or DL coil configuration as desired.
Uniquely apart from sub ohm tanks and other disposable atomizers, certain rebuildable atomizers can integrate with mechanical mods. Unfortunately, mechanical mods have severe risks and are out of scope of this document.
The Stubby AIO X-Ray SE mods supports standard boro atomizers, as well as larger Tallboy RBA's. The boro tank adapter block accessory is not sold separately from Stubby mods, so take care not to lose or damage it.
However, the stock Stubby front panel couples too loosely with the front of boro tanks, resulting in frequent leaks. Recommend a flush front panel, such as one from MK MODS.
The main shops tend to quickly sell out, though the same products are often available from other online merchants.
The Stubby has multiple, wide open airflow ports around the atomizer tank, and around the battery compartment. It uses vape grade 18650 Li-Ion batteries. In any case, stock Stubby microcontrollers gobble up energy, so pack spare, charged 18650 batteries and expect to change them frequently. The non-21 editions of Stubby mods also include a USB-C port for charging, or firmware updates of DNA60 (sold separately) alternate circuit boards.
Stubbies feature a tuneable flathead 510 bottom electrical connection screw pin. Fresh out of the box, the pin may be screwed in rather tightly. Gently loosen with an electronics flathead screwdriver, then thumb screw up/down as needed.
Cthulhu manufactures RBA's, including the Cthulhu 850 RBA. This model resembles one of the more modern, accessible RBA designs, similar to high end RBA's, but cheaper. As a direct lung style atomizer, this model rips decent clouds.
Cthulhu Kraken sold separately, or other standard boro tanks, are needed in order to house the atomizer in a boro mod.
Vaping Bogan demonstrates rebuilding / rewicking the Cthulhu 850 RBA in one of his many interactive demo videos.
The process for building the Cthulhu 850 atomizer resembles the same process of building simpler RDA/RTA/RDTA atomizers.
First, disassemble most components.
For the mod, this means removing the front panel covering the atomizer bay, the drip tip and/or boro screw, and any boro tank adapter blocks.
For the 850 atomizer, this means removing the total atomizer from packaging, pulling off the bridge, then pulling off the top cap, revealing the deck.
Then, unscrew the bottom airflow pin. Take care not to let one of the posts fall out of the deck. Especially important after the coil or wick is inserted. Even tiny airflow holes around the circumference of the head of the atomizer airflow screw can be cleaned, such as by rolling the end of a napkin into a needle. Ensure the floating post is firmly reseated against the deck. Select the desired bottom airflow pin (the 850 RBA comes with several). Recommend the second-widest pin, in order to optimize both electrical contact and atomizer pressure seal with the Stubby boro adapter block. Screw the bottom airflow pin back in.
The grub screws can be left as is, unless you want to be exceptionally thorough and run the end of an isopropyl rubbing alcohol soaked q-tip around them. Rubbing alcohol can help with electrical circuit problems between electrical vaping electrical contact points, which do accumulate resistive residue over time.
Clean all components with vape safe cleaning supplies. Namely, napkins or paper towels. Avoid soap, bleach, or other cleaning products that would be horrendous for your lungs.
Tap water is okay for cleaning ejuice containers and ejuice mixing supplies. But best avoided around coils and electrical components, which may rust or short circuit.
If you have never built or wicked a vape atomizer before, then you will need to learn to do some (basic) coil math. Critically, Ohm's Law. This formula converts between voltage, current, and resistance. The maximum voltage of the battery, the Continuous Discharge Rate current, and the resitance of the coil must remain within the safe bounds of the component ratings. Or else the battery may erupt into flames, explode, or in the case of a regulated mod like the Stubby line, the mod may refuse to provide power to the atomizer, indicating an atomizer short (circuit)..
Mooch conducts tests on many battery models in order to evaluate how reliable they are for vaping purposes. His results provide evidence for models known to be safer or unsafe at specific ratings. For example, Samsung 30T or Molicel P42A 21700 batteries are generally reliable for regulated and semi-regulated mods. However, some battery merchants are unscrupulous, so obtain Mooch-approved batteries from reliable sources.
The Cthulhu 850 atomizer uses 2.5mm inner diameter, 5 wrap, clockwise coils, such as a Coil Clout MTL Fralien 0.5 Ohm, suitable for MTL style vaping at lower power, about 20W. Higher power applied to a 2.5mm coil risks dry hits or burning the wick early, especially when chain vaping.
Insert the coil into a coil jig.
For U shaped coils, gently unwind half a wrap, forming an S shape.
Lightly unscrew the grub screws, using a 1.25mm hex tool.
Continue to keep the coil inside the coil jig, in order to maximize alignment while minimizing coil damage.
We will screw in the coil like professionally assembled IKEA furniture, by lightly screwing in all screws, and then performing additional, tighter passes. This way, we get the best possible structural shape through to the end of the process.
The 850 RBA deck features two depressions, reservoirs which will gather spare ejuice inside the atomizer into little pools. Aim the coil hole from one reservoir to the other. Insert one coil leg into a post. Lightly screw down the grub screw. Now insert the other coil leg into the other post, and lightly screw down the other grub screw.
Readjust the coil, continuing to use the coil jig to center it parallel to the posts.
Lift the coil up, creating a few mm vertically gap by the top of the posts. The 850 RBA top cap provides plenty of vertical space for this. No atomizer coil should be so low as to risk contacting the main airflow area of the deck, so ensure a few mm gap there as well.
Recheck coil centering, ensuring a few mm horizontal gap between the coil and the posts. Contact between the wrong points can have disastrous results in mechanical mods, leading to dangerous heating or electrical conditions. In regulated mods like the Stubby, it frequently disables the fire button.
Coil placement is honeslty tedious with 3mm coils, expected to be easier with 2.5mm coils.
Once the coil is properly spaced and aligned, use the hex tool to hand tighten the grub screws further. Take care not to overtighten, which risks snapping the coil apart, or even stripping the grub screws.
Realign the coil vertically and horizontally once more.
With the coil in place, the next step is to cut the leads of the legs sticking through the far sides of the posts. Like all vape maintenance, perform this step away from pets and children. Recommend wearing laboratory glasses / ballistics glasses for this step, in order to protect eyes from flying metal shards. As well, some vapers close their eyes for the moment of cutting the wires. Place a small, needle nose wirecutter tool flush against the far sides of one post, and clip one leg's extra wire flush to the post. Continue cutting away at smaller loose wire ends there.
If less than a mm remains, that last bit can be pressed with the tool around the screw. Take care that the wire end will not extend past the screw to contact atomizer caps, which risks short circuits. Loose wire ends also present cutting hazards when servicing atomizers.
Repeat the same procedure with the extra leg wire on the other post.
The process of wicking prepares a fresh or used coil for an optimum vaping experience.
Orient the Stubby boro tank adapter block with the widest contact pin facing up, and the cut corner facing right. The wide contact pin helps to form solid electrical and pressure connections with tanks. The cut corner helps to streamline airflow through the mod. Push the block down onto the Stubby mod's bottom pin.
In order to temper the coil, you will need either a separate, non-boro, 40W+ conventional 510 pin mod, or else an Ambition Mods 510 Boro Adapter 2.0. The adapter screws down in the tank section of a boro mod, allowing a boro atomizer to temporarily screw down on top of the boro mod for maintenance.
Inspect the atomizer. Look for aberrations, particularly any coil legs detached from the posts. That can happen when sending too much power through a weak, used, or damaged coil.
Disable the mod, such as by removing the battery.
If servicing an existing wick, remove the used cotton entirely. Use a napkin corner to sop up ejuice residue, especially in air intake holes and ejuice deck depressions.
Remove detritus, such as dirt, paper bits, cotton wicks, or little cotton or creature hairs, from the coil. Leftover detritus can ignite or otherwise contribute to a nasty vaping experience.
When servicing atomizers, use ceramic tweezers to remove detritus and adjust coils and wicks. Ceramic protects you and your mod, against electrical and heat damage.
If the coil is very freshly built, then the coil will appear silvery. We will need to air galvanize the coil into a bluish / purplish color.
Turn on the mod. Set the power to about 20W. This should be enough power to eventually get the coil glowing red, without spoiling it. Later, we will keep the power at a similarly low level for the first several vape puffs, gently working our way up or down to the desired vaping power level. This allows us to conduct many small experimental puffs, gathering information about the quality of the overall vaping experience, while also mitigating sudden heat shocks to the main heating element.
Briefly activate the fire button, sending short bursts of electrical pulses through the coil. Repeatedly stroke ceramic tweezers along the length of the coil tube, from one end of the rungs to the other. Stroke evenly on all sides of the coil tube. Stroking the coil helps to remove hotspots, which would otherwise burn the cotton and ruin the vape experience.
At first, when you pulse the coil, you may see some sections crackle red, while most other sections are dark. That's a coil with too many hotspots. Continue pulsing and stroking the coil several times, until the hotspots even out. The coil should glow from the middle out, the glow reaching nearly the far ends of the coil.
Pulsing this way helps to prepare the coil to heat the wick uniformly. As well, pulsing releases any unsavory oils leftover from the manufacturing process of vape components.
Measure the resistance of the coil, with a regulated mod or a dedicated vaping Ohm meter. The resistance should be within the supported specifications of all the vaping components, including the battery, the mod, and the atomizer. If the resistance is out of bounds, readjust the coil, suchas adding/removing wraps, or else install more electrically appropriate components.
Disable the atomizer. Let the coil cool off a few minutes. Cooling the coil will protects the new, dry cotton wick are about to install, from burning during the initial wicking process.
Cut a segment of vape cotton so that it would fit through the coil tube with several cm extending through both sides, approximately 6 cm long in total. Gently pull the segment into two thinner halves. Keep the the second half as a spare wick with the rest of the cotton for later.
Take the first half of the segment and rub one end back and forth between your thumb and index finger. The goal is to make a fine point. Insert the point under the coil leg connecting to the high post. Pull the cotton halfway through to the other side.
Gently guide the wick through the coil, until the coil rests in the middle of the length of the wick.
Lightly coat the circumference of the deck with ejuice, lubricating it for a good seal with the top cap.
Align the top cap's wicking holes with the ends of the cotton.
Attach the top cap. Use a pair of scissors, such as the small scissors on a Swiss army knife, to trim each end of the cotton 0.5 cm out of the cap. Remove the cap.
Gently comb both ends of the wick, straightening the cotton and removing excess fluff. Avoid overcombing, which would thin the cotton to the point of breaking the wick hole pressure seals.
Thoroughly wet the cotton with a modest amount of ejuice, including over the coil. Inspect for dry patches. Dry cotton will not wick very effectively on its own. Allow the cotton to continue soaking a few minutes.
Reattach the cap.
Turn on the mod. Inspect the coil's electrical measurements, particularly any atomizer shorts, or resistance values that conflict with your vape system's operating bounds.
Perform a vapetest of the electrical circuit, briefly activating the fire button a few times.
Lubricate the circumference of the O-ring at the bottom of the bridge with ejuice, wiping away excess ejuice with a napkin.
Twist the bridge into the top cap.
Lubricate the boro tank's connective elements: the top boro drip tip hole, the bottom airflow hole, and the rectangular tank seal.
Face the boro tank's front fill port towards you. Place the atomizer inside the boro tank.
Select which side of the atomizer you want to face the front. For example, some vapers like to showcase logos of their favorite brands, while others prefer a cleaner, sophisticated look.
Push the atomizer up so that the bridge goes past the boro drip tip hole.
Orient the bottom of the boro tank so that its airflow holes face front. Attach the bottom of the boro tank.
Turn the atomizer front and center, then offset it counterclockwise about a quarter turn.
Push the atomizer firmly down into place in the tank.
Select a boro drip tip, such as a boro screw and a 510 drip tip, or an integrated drip tip. If using an integrated drip tip, remove the airflow pin.
For example, a Mission XV Mission Tips V2 Cosmos Mini. The round shape of the drip tip is convenient, compared to asymmetric drip tips that require more specific mouth angles.
Remove any 510 thread adapters from the mod.
Wipe off any residue around the mod, the mod's tank bay, or the adapter block.
Reinsert the Stubby boro tank adapter block, oriented wide pin up, cut corner right. Push the block down.
Insert the tank, face out, into the boro tank shaped space in the tank bay. If the tank fit is too tight or too lose, temporarily remove the tank and the tank adapter block, and thumb screw the Stubby bottom pin looser or tighter to compensate. Recommend raising the pin until the tank barely fits into the bay, for the tightest fit, without risking damage to the tank's bottom airflow pin.
Now we will ensure the best electrical and pressure seal between the tank and the mod. Apply a bright light onto the front of the mod, while looking through the X-Ray SE's cut corner side airflow window. Move the tank forward and back through the bay, until the front of the tank rests flush with the 510 adapter block. Hold the tank in place with your fingers. Attach a boro screw or base of an integrated drip tip onto the top of the mod. Finger tighten the screw. Inspect the tank for proper orientation of the fill port, airflow holes, and electrical connections.
Use a boro screw tool, the handle of ceramic tweezers, a guitar pick, a small prybar, an average flathead screwdriver, or the bottom of a metal AIO panel, to hand tighten the boro screw until the atomizer rotates facing the front.
If using an integrated drip tip, check that the desired drip tip airflow pin, skirt, cover, etc., are attached.
Reattach the front panel.
Test the airflow. It should be smooth, either loose or tight to match your direct lung / mouth to lung needs, and with minimal whistling or gurgling.
Take a few test puffs of your latest wick.
When satisfied, fill the tank partway with ejuice. The more air you leave, the easier it is to service the atomizer if needed.
Wipe away excess ejuice.
Gradually raise/lower power to the preferred setting, to reflect your personal vaping experience.
Replace the coil with a new one as needed, in the ballpark of every six months for relatively light vapers.
After some vaping sessions, leaking or condensation may occur. Expect to daily disassemble some components and wipe away condensation with a napkin.
When using a needle-folded napkin to wipe the drip tip, bridge, atomizer bottom airflow pin, etc., be gentle. Take care not to accidentally dislodge cotton, especially for atomizers with vertical coils.
For more severe condensation or leaking, disassemble, wipe down all components, and rewick. Consult (video) tutorials for your atomizer, as many reviewers reveal helpful tips to get the best possible experience out of your hardware.
Keep vaping components away from pets and children.
Cease vaping when components become too hot to touch. Remove the battery. Inspect components before resuming.
Prefer mods with ample battery airflow.
Avoid using batteries that are too old or provide unstable current.
Rewrap or replace batteries with minor tears on the cover. Avoid using batteries with other visible damage.
Check battery orientation for valid polarity. Vape mods commonly design positive down.
Avoid environment moisture (rain, snow, water).
Store vape componemts in a cool, dark place. Allow ejuice more days or weeks to steep. When taking vapes outdoors, store and aim sensitive components, such as clear tank sides, away from sunlight. Cover ejuice bottles. Follow shade.
If you're completely new to vaping, typical vape mods operate with a five click system: Rapidly click the main button five times in a row, to toggle the device on/off.
Covering the carburetor on the atomizer main panel with your fingers helps to regulate airflow.
If you are experiencing dry, cottony, ashy hits, then you have several few resolution options. Check that the level of ejuice in the tank covers all of the atomizer's ejuice fill holes. Shift the ratio toward less VG, more PG (particularly for low power vape systems). Reduce the sweetness of ejuice, as sugars damage coils more quickly. Raise or lower power. Reduce chain vaping by allowing more time between hits. This includes personal chain vaping, as well as sharing a vape with friends.
Avoid holding the fire button longer than necessary. Rewick cotton (paying attention to the thickness of the cotton segments, placement, and combing). Rebuild a frwsh coil (paying attention to smoothing out coil hotspots). Select a more robust coil. Select a more robust atomizer. Check for sufficient airflow, which helps cool the coil. Assist anyone borrowing your vape with proper technique. Educate yourself and others.
If you are experiencing spitting/gurgling, clean condensation off of components. Rewick. Rebuild. Check hand tightness of components. Check airflow. Select more powerful components, or less poweful components. Select an atomizer, bridge, or airflow pins with narrower or longer shapes.
If you are experiencing too intense or too mild vapor, adjust power. Select a mouth to lung atomizer and coil, ot a direct lung atomizer and coil. Install fresh batteries. Due to the inherently fickle measurements of purported battery charge remaining, assume empty and install a fully charged fresh battery.
If you are experiencing too much or too little flavor, adjust power. Adjust ejuice recipes. Rewick. Rebuild. Clear your sinuses. Drink some water. Steep ejuice longer. Obtain fresh ejuice. Obtain fresh ejuice ingredients. Increase total flavor percentage up to about 10% - 15% of the overall batch.
Many minor vaping experience issues are solvable by continuing to take small, light puffs with ample time between puffs. Try patience.
When mixing ejuice, let the batch rest in a room temperature, dark cabinet for several days ("steeping") for richer flavors such as tobacco to mix more thoroughly.
Three rapid clicks of the fire button with a Stubby microcontroller raise a menu.
Stubby microcontroller settings provide a stealth option. Stubby stealth mode disables the screen, for any light sensitive users or environments. However, stealth mode may automatically reengage the screen, when powering the device on/off, or when pressing either of the up/down buttons.
The up/down buttons primarily adjust the power. Press and hold to rapidly scroll (unfortunately wraparound). Lower wattages traverse in 0.5 W increments. Higher wattages traverse in 1.0 W increments.
A freshly wicked atomizer may not instantly pull smoothly. Reduce power, take small puffs, and gradually adjust power. The wick may take a few hours to reach that perfect draw. Each morning may reset the state back to a weak, spotty draw. Week after week, the draw will gradually lose the ability to become smooth. That's how you'll know it is time to rewick. The cotton may lose its capillary action, becoming permanently burnt/drenched, unable to generate smooth, milky vape clouds or flavor. A used wick may no longer deplete ejuice, resulting in a tank that appears forever full, but fails to vape properly.
Some vape mods, especially boro mods, support custom panels. Panels with different cutout shapes can provide new fingerholds, expanding the ergonomics of your mod.
Warning: Research ingredients before vaping. Don't mess with any ejuice or ejuice ingredients with Vitamin E acetate.
Vegetable glycerin (VG) promotes cloud generation, while propylene glycol (PG) carries flavor. VG is thicker and requires vape mods capable of reaching higher power. Adjust the VG:PG ratio to suit your needs.
Common nicotine doses range from 0 mg(/mL) to 12 mg(/mL). When making ejuice, note that the initial VG and/or PG nicotine base strength will reduce somewhat, as the flavors dilute the nicotine base.
Recommend to use nicotine premixed into a base VG and/or PG liquid, at approximately the intended dosage. This reduces the risk of nicotine poisoning, by avoiding raw, undiluted nicotine.
The Make My Vape Calculator automates some back of the envelope calculations when refining ejuice recipes.
The DIY ejuice subreddit discusses tips for recipes and basic ejuice making tips. For example, fruity ejuice tends to be "shake and bake," able to be vaped soon after mixing. On the other hand, some richer, tobacco-y ejuice tends may require steeping for several weeks in a cubbard before the flavors are able to mix throughly to taste.
Once mixed, store your ejuice in unicorn bottles. This makes them compatible with the widest range of vapes, many of which have very narrow fill holes.
Label your bottles. For example, with some creative stickers.
Share your results!