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Creality CR-6 issue list (including listing of motherboard issues)

Creality CR-6 issue list

This is an initiative to create an overview of the issues found with the Creality CR-6 SE.

As of this writing (2020-09-19) the large number of the motherboard issues have not been publicly acknowledged. Hopefully this overview forces Creality to acknowledge the issues with the Creality CR-6 SE leveling free 3d printer.

Update 2021-07-17 from Creality

According to Creality all issues should be resolved in the newer models:

Here are the improvements we did as below: 1, remove the step-down IC, from 24 V to 12 V. After many times verified, There is no difference from 24 V. 2, use new motherboard, from the design aspect, remove the buck IC, better circuit design. 3, the fuse is the self-recovery fuse, the principle is to absorb current, but easy to cause smoke. After experimental evidence, 0 Ω resistance can play the same role, and will not smoke. 4, increase the PVC sheet, insulating tape, etc., the purpose to block the hot bed bare position, to prevent the circuit > conductivity. 5, Remove the ground wire and organize the circuit conduction.

They've also been sending some kits to some users so they can fix the issue on their own printer.

Power switch failure

The power switch fails. This can cause it to turn off mid-print, not turn off at all, or smoke coming from the switch. It appears that the issue is two-fold:

  1. Creality used the wrong crimps for the switch: the switch is rated 10A, but 16A crimps were used for connecting the wires to the switch.

Crusty pins

  1. The switch itself is of bad quality and does not make good contact internal contact. Eventually the switch fails.

Some users have been replacing the switches proactively. It is very hard to get into contact with support, and otherwise it takes weeks for something as trivial as a switch to arrive.

This issue has been sort-of acknowledged by Creality.

ACK not?

It appears that in the newer batches Creality has switched to a new switch. You can identify this switch by that it has three prongs.

UPDATE 2020-12-08: From printer produced in November a new switch has been used with three pins. This doesn't have the sparking issues.

new switch

Auto-bed leveling not leveling

In multiple reported cases the auto-bed leveling system can't level the bed. That is especially annoying because the print bed does not have bed leveling screws. There appears to be a workaround by manually leveling the bed tightening screws.

Filament run-out sensor has run out

The filament run-out sensor seems to have a high failure rate. There appear to be multiple issues happening:

  1. The PCB of the filament run-out sensor is not fixed in the housing. This appears to be fixable by the user though (video on YouTube).

Filament runout sensor fix

  1. The wiring to the filament runout sensor can become loose due to vibrations. Fixable as seen in this video.

  2. The filament sensor fails entirely: it never detects filament. It is not fixable, but can be bypassed by using a 10K resistor.

Filament runout sensor bypass

Motherboard issues

The largest issue with the CR-6 SE is the motherboard issues. It cannot be worked around by the user and requires a replacement.

UPDATE 2020-12-08: It appears that there is a new motherboard revision 2020-06-12 v4.5.3 now

These issues have not been (fully) acknowledged by Creality

There appear to be several issues happening:

USB issues

  1. The printer motherboard can be powered up via USB, and this causes boot failures because the motherboard gets confused. This can be worked around by using an USB optocoupler or preventing the USB 5V pin connecting.

  2. The printer works fine, but connecting it via USB blows up the USB host ports on the Raspberry PI or computer attached.

  3. The printer work fine, but plugging in an USB cable blows up the printer. Sparks may occur.

USB sparky

Overheating or burning of the motherboard

Several reports have been made that the motherboard PCB itself melts down, accompanied with smoke. Sometimes this happens shortly after first power on or shortly after the first print. However, it can and has happened after two weeks too.

This issue has been partially acknowledged by Creality, stating that 0.15% of the motherboards are affected.

0.15% - yes

Back on the envelope calculation: 0.15% means that on 10.000 units only 15 motherboards are affected. That seems reasonable, but as of this writing only 4000 units were received. Count maybe 1000 sold in retail and you come to about 5000 units "in production".

Let's count

Let's count. To protect the privacy of the people who posted it I'm using the initials of the people, so you can see there is no double counting.

  1. 4 August by JL Just received my CR6 SE yesterday. But quickly notice this major issue. The moment it is turned on the heat bed automatically heats up without touching anything. Luckily I have a good and responsive reseller that is sorting out with Creality now.
JL
  1. 17 August by JW - Put the cr-6 se together last night, ran an eevee test. It worked awesome. This morning turned it on and it popped with a puff of smoke.

JW

  1. 15 August by /u/The_Sqeuakening I wish I had looked for this place before assembling my printer, the motherboard on mine burned as soon as I started it. [...] I had set the power supply to the correct voltage for my region so I am fairly certain it was not the power supply.

  2. 25 August by /u/Prymus142 Prints great. Rather it did, Now the screen won't come on. So I have a brick.

  3. 29 August by /u/Kingpenny1 Second Time Turned On, Smoke Poured Out. Be Careful!

Kingpenny1
  1. 1 September by TI Well my CR-6 SE just went up in smoke. I just set it up. It was heating and then started smoking.
TI
  1. 4 September by HW it printed once perfectly. The 2nd time turning it on it started smoking
HW
  1. 4 September by "Mike" *In case you were wondering what it looks like when a CR6 burns up, here is my buddy Mike's. Smoked on first start up... *
Mike
  1. 4 September by DP After a week or so of small successful prints I was looking forward to a weekend off work of putting the CR 6 se through the paces and really testing it. So far I have only printed when I could be around to monitor it and I have been turning off the power to it when not in use. Apparently I am the latest victim of the faulty motherboard issue apparently. When I least expected it I just leveled the bed and was ready to start another small print when this happened. Reaching out to support to see how they handle it.
DP DPb
  1. 12 September by JJ 3 weeks ago my machine would not turn on. Checked the power cable, the fuse and figured it was the switch; it was not making as sound when turning on or off and all of the wires where on tightly. Ordered a new switch and replaced it by following [redacted]'s post using the Digi-key switch and fuses. Was finally able to replace it today and then my motherboard threw off a large spark who do i need to contact for a replacement because this is so frustrating. It worked for almost 2 weeks in the beginning and has been down ever since
JJ
  1. 14 September by RB So here's a pic of the traces that are burning on the back of the main board. My board next to one that is burn't. The Stepper motor 10.7v trace is burnt open as well as one of the 24v traces.
RB
  1. 15 September by JH *plugged in my USB cable to my computer. Fried both the computer and the printer... USB Port on the Printer CB was shorted the gnd and D+ pins. *
JH
  1. 15 September by CH Looks like I’m now a member of the burnt motherboard club... I’ve had mine for over two weeks with no issues and had just finished a 20 hour print.
CH
  1. 16 September by MB Mine cant boot after spark and smoke, plug in usb for octoprint and electrical spark coming out.. cant even boot, already raised a ticket to creality and hopefully they reply soonest..

  2. 16 September by AD So I plugged in my microUSB cable to connect it my PC and it looks like my USB shorted itself, smoked a little, and I saw a flash of flames.

  3. 17 September by JR Decided to try to try my hand at octoprint. Set it up on my windows machine and decided to try it out for this print. Did my level, and went to connect usb first with the 5v pin blocked as I have seen recommended. My cable started to smoke and quickly hot enough to melt. Pulled that out quick. Picked up another cable, plugged it in to my pc and then went to plug it in, and it started parking as soon as it touched the micro usb port shield! What am I doing wrong?

  4. 19 September by Joel Telling HOLY CRAP. Went to plug in a USB cable on the @Creality3dprint CR-6 SE and THERE WERE SPARKS. Power cycled printer, and now it’s stuck at this screen and dead. :(

  5. 19 September by /u/dominos789 My CR6 is currently stuck on the loading screen and does not boot. Have tried updating the main firmware and the display firmware without any luck. Tried formatting the SD card, changing the file name, keeping the SD card pushed in. I am able to connect using octoprint and it seems to be stuck in a boot loop (printer sends a "start" command when already on, per octoprint).

  6. 19 September by NO We connected the Printer with the micro USB to the PC to start the first test prints quick. It starts to smell and the usb cable become very hot. Now the printer restarts every time with every action. To be a bit more specific: after the usb plug was removed, we killed the power and had it restarted.The display started up as well, like it should, but as soon as you went to leveling or any other option and you pushed 2-3 buttons it restarted everytime.

  7. 21 September by LR Well there goes my mainboard. I went to change the e-steps with pronterface, the second I plugged in the usb. There was spark no magic smoke though.

LR
  1. 23 September by /u/McNick97 Thought I checked everything... Apparently not. First time powering up the printer and flashing the firmware worked. Then I tried lowering the x gantry. Didn't move and suddenly I heard a poof sound and smelled the magic smoke.
McNick97
  1. 24 September by almumen When I turn on the printer, it immediately heats up non stop that I had to stop it before it catches fire! look at the heat bed temperature against the target temperature! Here I set the target @60 thinking that 0 is the problem. but the heating continues past 60 non-stop!

  1. 28 September by /u/Yeraze Just happened. After a few days of successful prints, I just had a long 20hour print finish successfully. Was removing it from the bed when there was a sudden “hiss” and flash visible from inside the case.. a few flames and a ton of smoke. Opened it up, you can see the burn where something blew. Ironically, the blue fuse right next to it is perfectly fine. That part under the heatsink is visibly loose now, all the traces burnt.
Yeraze

Seems not as horrible as it seems, but it does seem that the failure rate is slightly about 0.15%. Remember that 50% of the 10,000 backers did not receive their unit yet (as of writing at most 5000 units have arrived) - but also an unknown number has been sold through resellers (1000-3000?).

Final thoughts

We're not at the end of the Kickstarter yet. The units sent on 4-10 August are now arriving in Europe. This means that over 50% of the units did not arrive yet.

Secondly, this has already been a horribly handled Kickstarter. Creality has been either dishonest about shipping ("express shipping" "we will ramp up production to three shipments per week") or has switched their decisions multiple times ("no sorry, we ship by top countries first, oh and we forgot to mention that add-ons orders will be shipped last").

If you live in Europe or Australia, and ordered add-ons, that means you're at the back of the line when it comes to shipping. Those printers are now (mid-September) being shipped. With shipping times being over 40 days, imagine receiving your printer at the end of October, only to have it go up in a puff of smoke.

Alternatives

If you're looking to buy the Creality CR-6, note that there are plenty of alternative printers that work just as well (or even better). For the price of a Creality CR-6 SE, for instance, you can get a BIQU B1 with a BLTouch and TMC2209 drivers in UART mode (sold separately).

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@almumen almumen commented Sep 23, 2020

20200924_011730
When I turn on the printer, it immediately heats up non stop that I had to stop it before it catches fire! look at the heat bed temperature against the target temperature!

here I set the target @60 thinking that 0 is the problem. but the heating continues past 60 non-stop!

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@Sebazzz Sebazzz commented Sep 24, 2020

The bed is rated for 100 degrees I think, so that is even worse.

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@eduncan911 eduncan911 commented Sep 25, 2020

They stated on Sept 11th letter above of the 0.15% failure rate, and mobos in the warehouse were replaced and "need not worry."

However, printers have been shipping since July, even the "add-ons" version in late August!

Think I'll just order an SKR 1.3 and some drivers, or a mini. Want to run Klipper on it anyways.

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@lobopt lobopt commented Oct 9, 2020

Hmm that mobos in the warehouse where replaced is interesting , i got a message from the german ups that my machine arrived in Europe then didnt hear anything of it for more than a month and every call at ups they told me of a slight delivery problem from the manufacturer. And when i wasnt thinking of it anymore it got delivered with a weird adress on it.
Dont have any problems with it btw so i start to think parts got replaced during that month in hiding.

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@lobopt lobopt commented Oct 9, 2020

Ah yes only got it last week btw

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@danne77sthlm danne77sthlm commented Oct 10, 2020

Is this what I need to not brake the raspberry4/octopie that I want to use with the CR-6 SE ?
https://www.tindie.com/products/brianlough/power-blough-r/

And I bought one through retail here in Sweden, powerswitch was both loose and broken, everything else was in order though

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@almumen almumen commented Oct 15, 2020

I received the new board from creality and tested it. It worked fine this time. Just in case, I cut the power lines from my USB cable to octopi.

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@degrashopper degrashopper commented Oct 16, 2020

I received the new board from creality and tested it. It worked fine this time. Just in case, I cut the power lines from my USB cable to octopi.

@almumen Did you get a motherboard with a newer version number then your old one? If so, could you post what your old version number was and what the new version number is?

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@ilgrank ilgrank commented Oct 29, 2020

I've got board revision 4.5.2 and I have a 20V potential difference between my PC usb port and CR6SE usb port.
I noticed this because after 5 minutes the usb port started smoking and melted.
BTW, I also had the heated bed go up to 110°C on first power on, with no print running.

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@ilgrank ilgrank commented Oct 29, 2020

I received the new board from creality and tested it. It worked fine this time. Just in case, I cut the power lines from my USB cable to octopi.
@almumen: Can you please tell us what board revision you got? Thanks :)

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@almumen almumen commented Oct 31, 2020

I checked the old and new board. Both are v4.5.2.

So, the first one is a defect.

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@Sebazzz Sebazzz commented Oct 31, 2020

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@eduncan911 eduncan911 commented Oct 31, 2020

I've got board revision 4.5.2 and I have a 20V potential difference between my PC usb port and CR6SE usb port.

Where exactly did you measure this voltage? Please specify exact details, where you placed your DVM, etc.

Let's keep to facts and details here since this gist is the source of truth.

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@eduncan911 eduncan911 commented Oct 31, 2020

I checked the old and new board. Both are v4.5.2.

So, the first one is a defect.

Thanks for this. It's a clear indication that there may be no telling what is good or bad. Just plug it in and hope for the best.

Others have shown pics of their new board that seem to have way more thermal paste under the VRMs in their replacements. One other has claimed their instance bed-heating stopped with the new board (same version too).

One can conclude that their Q.C. sticker doesn't mean jack.

If someone can find a more telling indicator by visually looking at the board, that would go a long way for others to diagnose.

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@ilgrank ilgrank commented Nov 2, 2020

Where exactly did you measure this voltage? Please specify exact details, where you placed your DVM, etc.
Let's keep to facts and details here since this gist is the source of truth.

The 20V potential difference is between my PC USB port GROUND and CR6SE USB port GROUND (DVM at both ports shells), check pic.
voltage_diff

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@eduncan911 eduncan911 commented Nov 2, 2020

Where exactly did you measure this voltage? Please specify exact details, where you placed your DVM, etc.
Let's keep to facts and details here since this gist is the source of truth.

The 20V potential difference is between my PC USB port GROUND and CR6SE USB port GROUND (DVM at both ports shells), check pic.
voltage_diff

While that is initially shocking, and thank you for that, something doesn't make sense in the photo.

You have connected one ground to another ground of completely independent circuits. Each of these DC circuits are independent of each other, generated by the ADC PSUs of your printer and PC.

In order to complete a circuit, or in this case connect the leads to measure voltage, one would typically connect the leads the + and - of that circuit.

Connecting a negative terminal of one DC circuit to the negative of a different independent DC circuit should register 0V - as you aren't measuring a single circuit.

However, moisture in the air, oils from the leads, or other various things could create phantom voltages of no amperage (carrying no current) - and that's what I suspect you are showing here in the picture.

tl;dr : you aren't measuring anything in that pic. Instead, place the leads to + and - pins on a single USB plug to measure the voltage, per device.

We know your PC is most likely standard 5VDC. So start with the printers USB. If you can't reach pin 1 (VCC) within the mini-USB, then try from the mainboard itself at the soldered joints or cut a USB cord to plug in.

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@ilgrank ilgrank commented Nov 3, 2020

Phantom voltages can surely happen, but then the current would be in the order of uAmps, not enough to MELT an USB port.
Update: without opening the printer, I've also measure current between ground, and indeed it is in the order of ~1mA, not enough to melt a port. I've taped out the +5V on the male USB A plug and indeed that seemed to be the (well known) culprit: the printer was trying to take as much current as it could from the USB port. Being on an USB3 port, that could have been as high as 1.5/2.0A, enough to melt the tiny microUSB port.
That doesn't explain the sparks that can be seen when mating the micro usb port with the printer already on tho. 20V is enough, but 1mA.. is kind of a weak current to generate a visible spark in a well lit room. (and it happened multiple times. Now I connect the usb with the printer off and then power it on to prevent a dangerous spark)

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@eduncan911 eduncan911 commented Nov 3, 2020

I don't mean to be rude and please don't take it that way; however, I am trying to explain how to use a DVM. You were not measuring voltage nor amperage with these test. You were not measuring anything at all. That 20V reading didn't mean anything. Nor the 1mA.

I explained how to properly measure voltage earlier.

For amps, you need to attach a load by completing the circuit with your DVM, as inductive probes are not that sensitive. Which we all know would have fried something, most likely the fuse in your DVM would have gone first. It is highly ill-advised with this printer board to connect anything under load on that USB port.


You did right by taping off the VCC+ line to prevent back feeding.

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@ilgrank ilgrank commented Nov 3, 2020

No offense taken. On the countrary, any help is welcome.
While I can have 'measured nothing', the USB plug melting is a fact.
And that's not something you would expect from a product with QC.

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@eduncan911 eduncan911 commented Nov 3, 2020

No offense taken. On the countrary, any help is welcome.

:) So hard these days to have constructive conversations without seeing people's facial expressions, smiles, etc. Even in person with everyone masked up.

While I can have 'measured nothing', the USB plug melting is a fact. And that's not something you would expect from a product with QC.

Absolutely correct! However, this is China and they do cut a lot of corners for profits.

That's why I wanted to get to the bottom of this and you seemed to have started down the right path. I only wanted to help get the proper measurements as you may have found the smoking gun that we all can point a finger at. So close...

The sparks could easily be a voltage mis-match. Measuring at the USB pins from a cut wire (red and black) or from the motherboard's USB connector for the shield and pin1 would give us the correct voltage output of the port. Which is pin1? Well, that depends on the connector they used. You can also try to find a symbol of usually a thick dot or solid square, which would indicate pin1 as well.

I never got my CR-6, nor will ever get it at this point. So I am unable to debug this unless I can get my hands on a unit.

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@Sebazzz Sebazzz commented Nov 3, 2020

@oliverhbailey Another issue is of course with the major YouTube channels giving no attention to these issues - all too afraid not to get access to their new products.

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@eduncan911 eduncan911 commented Nov 3, 2020

A standard USB port is not designed to provide more than a half amp and should not be powering any controller in a device that has its own power supply.

I have a CR-10 and the stock board does the same: it gets powered by the USB from the port I plug it into (not a PC, not a RPi, but another SBC - same difference). I used it to flash Klipper firmware on the board, without powering in the noisy unit.

On some other Creality boards, there's a jumper to disable this (powered-by-usb function).

So I do give credit to this theory that the boards draw far more power than the USB 2.0 ports can supply (500mA tops). So USB ports that are not protected may be burned out, like those on RPis and cheap PC mobos.


As far as complaints about how we got screwed, this isn't a forum or place for thst. This is a technical list of debugging and fixes. Let's put those annodates in the sub-Reddit (https://www.reddit.com/r/cr6), or the FB Community version of the CR6, which is not monitored by Creality (https://facebook.com/groups/cr6community/).

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@eduncan911 eduncan911 commented Nov 3, 2020

Again, wrong forum, and I never emailed you. Feel free to unsubscribe from this thread if you don't want emails. Nothing to apologize for as we are all here to help, and not complain in this technical thread. I clearly listed where you need to list those non-technical complaints as it falls on deaf ears here they can do nothing but give moral support.

You will have a much larger forum and 1000s of pairs of eyes help you if you follow my advice in the last comment to post on other forums. This isn't the place.

And thank you for listing credentials. I won't list the technical books nor published RFCs that has set the standards in the industry across 1000s of devices I've been authored to, as it doesn't mean anything here. We are debugging the CR6.

Please re-read the tone of previous comments before attacking me. I was not attacking you, nor anyone else. If you can't help to stick to the facts here about how to handle repairs to the CR6, again I linked you to some well known forums for you to post your personal annotations to. It's just noise here. But if you want to continue, feel free to continue doing so. I won't continue to advise you otherwise - as I've already said this isn't the forum nor exposure you are wanting.

Have a wonderful day (and stick to provide help to debug the technical issues in this thread).

Ps, I am not the author here as you can clearly see if you take the time to just scroll up and/or read it all. I am just here to help, and your notation on 500mA max draw is a correct fact to add to the list of possible reasons why USB ports are being fried. I was only saying everything else you posted has nothing to do with this thread, which is to repair the CR6. Don't take it personally and if you are, we can't help you with that - the other forums can.

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@eduncan911 eduncan911 commented Nov 4, 2020

Oliver, I've tried to point you to at least the forums regarding the CR6 above for help, while not being objectively nor judgemental in friendly suggestions.

However, you seemed to have singled me out as an avenue of personal anger and frustration for something you know very well I, and everyone else here, has zero control over.

Your judgemental and personal attacks on character are out of line. And you will be ignored going forward. Don't bother responding, it will be unseen.

I'll try to help you one last time. Here's how you ignore someone on GitHub to help with your issues here:

https://docs.github.com/en/free-pro-team@latest/github/building-a-strong-community/blocking-a-user-from-your-personal-account


To everyone else, apologies this has derailed so far off the topic with these posts from Oliver, and now myself, as he's forced me to respond. I won't be party to this his antics going forward.

Let's keep things on topic and continue to debug and resolve issues with the CR-6, as the original first post above actually is doing.

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@DreadKnight DreadKnight commented Nov 5, 2020

@oliverhbailey You're being a weird idiot, go away. I've countered a few other like you on Reddit recently with logical arguments and won.
You're part of this group of people that lack logic and are picking on people who actually try to help out others regarding CR-6 SE issues.
If you have issues go take it out on Creality with a lawsuit or whatever you need, but nobody here is affiliated with Creality in any way, we're all in the same boat as we bought stuff from their KickStarter campaign and received a somewhat crappy and problematic product, that's all.

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@DreadKnight DreadKnight commented Nov 5, 2020

Now back on topic, this printer is the first one I purchased and does very nice prints, however, did bump into quite a few issues / annoyances:

  • since I'm using linux, had to get Cura and figure out how to add the printing profile manually, next release should include the printer now.
  • the power button makes electrical noises and sparks if I don't press it fast enough (so that it stays more between on/off states), very scary
  • the glass print bed is horrible, things didn't properly stick to it and when they did, they were too hard to remove; the bed actually got chipped the second day when I was removing a print, so I have to use it on the smooth side now. This mainly happened because of a bug, so when canceling a print, the nozzle wouldn't get raised in Z-axis, resulting in scratching the surface of the bed (which lead to the whole chipping). This bug was fixed in a community released update of the firmware (which can brick your printer when upgrading, so it's a bit creepy to do so). A lot of people got their glass print beds chipped in similar fashion, many are using it on the other side as well or even upgraded the printer to using a flexible magnetic bed, which I also plan to do, even though they're not meant for this printer out of the box and require some tweaking. Theoretically I should be provided a new glass bed from Creality, but I wouldn't hold my breath about it.
  • previous settings weren't remembered when booting up the printer, so the auto-leveling mesh was not remembered and sometimes the Z-offset value would deviate, which is not cool at all. Apparently the printer doesn't store the settings in some internal memory and requires you to have the card inserted during boot time, which wasn't very intuitive at all.
  • after doing the auto-leveling, it just remains at that screen, while the numbers are bolded, it was not enough to let me and others know that the process was actually finished, as it should have displayed a dialog pretty much in a similar fashion to the "Printing is complete" one
  • I've never managed to get the printer to work using USB cable (I'm on linux, using latest Cura); I've even tried quite a few cables, when I plugged them in, I've noticed very shady behavior, like the filament detector lighting up when the printer was powered down, which made no sense at all, so there's current coming from my workstation through the USB cable that's going in weird places through the printer. Don't want to try out more, especially since info about connecting to a PC was sketchy to begin with (tells a lot about the feature), especially when printer would be powered on. Will just see if I can eventually make this work via Wi-fi perhaps, maybe using a Raspberry Pi (and octoprint).
  • all the toggle buttons are inverted direction wise, not respecting the standards, as I was tweaking settings from the side and it tricked me with some settings. Already reported this and will probably fix this myself pretty soon.
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@DreadKnight DreadKnight commented Nov 5, 2020

@oliverhbailey Yes, trust me. I'm telling this to you without any sort of hate, grudge, resentment. You're acting weird. I don't like flame wars but seen this type of pattern/behavior way too often recently in communities revolving around this 3d printer. So it's my moral duty to try and hopefully get you to realize your mistake in this matter, as I've done with others, despite being super busy and valuing my precious time too much, as I have plenty way more important things to do. I have no doubts that you're great at technical stuff, but you might be lacking some people skills or even some emotional intelligence in some cases, ironically despite you caring about people not getting their houses burned down. While eduncan911 here doesn't really need any sort of defense from me or a lawyer, I'm actually trying to help you out a bit, like a brother would, by making you realize you're in the wrong over here, as this is meant to be a productive guide, so there are no talk of lawsuits and it's not a forum, as everything is crammed up in a semi-primitive messaging system that doesn't allow for very complex conversations, there are plenty of forums and online communities for that. The thing is simple here: list of printer issues and how to deal with them. No disclaimers, no lawsuits, no Creality officials. We're people in a boat, after the ship has sunk. Imagine Life of Pi movie. Don't be one of the weird characters that are trying to kill the others because having anger regarding the current situation. I know I wasn't very diplomatic regarding my reply, but I'm quite blunt and honest when needed, as I run some huge communities online and I deal with a lot of people, which are acting weirder than usual because of frustrations they have, regarding current pandemic and other personal issues. So if you want to talk other agenda about the CR-6 SE that's not directly related to this guide, that's perfectly fine, but do it on the forums, and we might just reply there and figure out a plan of action. That's what we're telling you, so I'm not sure why you got so offensive, as it was simple stuff that you managed to make into something else and blow out of proportions. Once again: this is a simple guide focusing on how to fix things. Keep to the point and take care of yourself.

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@DreadKnight DreadKnight commented Nov 5, 2020

@oliverhbailey I have a real name and I'm known internationally. This is a persona just like Gene Simmons is known as The Demon.
I don't care about your age, because age doesn't necessarily translate to intelligence. If you don't have a high enough IQ or spend time learning constantly, then age is just a number. Only stupid people assume otherwise. Actually, a lot of old people, including yourself, tend to accumulate a lot of frustrations and issues over time and don't spend the time and money to visit a shrink now and then to even try to tackle some of those problems.

Btw, you're replying from e-mail, like an old dinosaur that you are, when the commenting system over here allows for comment editing. To let you know what that means: people make edits here that you won't get to see in your email. Hopefully you'll learn this one thing today at least.

I stood my ground trying to tackle an idiot like you to go away from this place as a favor, because this gist is not the place for you to be all mighty talking credentials and lawsuits. And this is not me sending you a message, because I'm not emailing you directly, but replying on a semi-public online page. You are full of idiocracy and your typing sucks, so don't be a hypocrite regarding my writing skills, which are far superior. You don't get to have a last word around. I can even get your account removed if you make such bad use of it. Anyway, apparently your thick skull can't process some basic information we're telling you, so I'm just blocking you. You've wasted too much of my precious time.

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@sternrulez sternrulez commented Nov 5, 2020

I'm posting this not to bash Creality (we already know what an abysmal company they are!), but to post other issues that I've noticed seems to be rather common with it.

  1. The auto-level function is in a word: worthless. In addition to the LCD screen freezing frequently during the leveling process, the print does down well in some spots but not others. After performing the leveling again, the print sticks in places it didn't before & vice versa.

  2. Prior to sparks shooting out of the faulty switch as soon as I turned mine on, it stopped extruding altogether when running a print. However, it extruded just fine when performing the add filament procedure. No amount of z offset adjustment & hotend cleansing did anything to improve the issue.

Now, whether or not these issues are both related to either a bad mainboard or terrible firmware is beyond my somewhat limited technical ability to diagnose. I'm certain however that their locking of the firmware places a major hurdle in the path of anyone attempting to perform any calibration or diagnosis. I purchased mine on eBay as a sealed new-in-box unit. It wasn't until after threatening Creality with action from the Federal Trade Commission did they finally respond to me, but in the email they stated that they "do not make the product" and to "contact the original seller for warranty assistance". Clearly I have no claim against the eBay seller since the unit was still sealed, and if Creality "doesn't make" a Creality printer, WHO DOES?

So, here I sit with a $300 paperweight for the moment until I can find out if I can use a BTT SKR mini board in it, but the one takeaway from this is to spread the word! I don't believe nearly enough a ruckus is being made over this, so I'm sure Creality will happily continue selling this garbage far & wide until they're stopped. Take a few moments to drop a line to your favorite 3d printing site...it doesn't matter which one. If they get enough instances they can't help but share on their sites. Try youtube also, especially if you're a patron of them. No, it won't fix the problems we have, but hopefully it will hit this negligent company where it hurts the most: in the wallet!

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@eduncan911 eduncan911 commented Nov 5, 2020

@DreadKnight

since I'm using linux, had to get Cura and figure out how to add the printing profile manually, next release should include the printer now.

Linux here as well. Use the Ender 3 profile and just tweak the settings to add ABL. I think the OP should list this as well above; it's in the Reddit CR-6 wiki about the ABL gcode to add to the Ender 3 profile.

previous settings weren't remembered when booting up the printer, so the auto-leveling mesh was not remembered and sometimes the Z-offset value would deviate, which is not cool at all. Apparently the printer doesn't store the settings in some internal memory and requires you to have the card inserted during boot time, which wasn't very intuitive at all.

The OP above linked to the Reddit wiki where the details about that, that you need the SDCARD and such, are: https://www.reddit.com/r/cr6/wiki/leveling

I've never managed to get the printer to work using USB cable (I'm on linux, using latest Cura); I've even tried quite a few cables, when I plugged them in, I've noticed very shady behavior, like the filament detector lighting up when the printer was powered down, which made no sense at all, so there's current coming from my workstation through the USB cable that's going in weird places through the printer. Don't want to try out more, especially since info about connecting to a PC was sketchy to begin with (tells a lot about the feature), especially when printer would be powered on. Will just see if I can eventually make this work via Wi-fi perhaps, maybe using a Raspberry Pi (and octoprint).

Please tell me you have read all of the OP above, in detail. There are even videos and tweets above telling you not to!

https://gist.github.com/Sebazzz/ff4d716c8d2ad9bab1e87b3fc4238281#usb-issues

It is critical you do not plug in the USB, without modifying your cable to block VCC+ (cut the red wire) in whatever cable you use.

To be brief, Creality is known for hard wiring VCC+ from the USB to power the board. Some Creality boards have a jumper to disable this - the CR-6 mobo does not. While on my klipper-firmware versions of their boards, this is not a problem. However, on the CR-6, this seems to be burning out people's USB ports and/or motherboards of your PC. Mostly likely from too much power draw of the printer.

@sternrulez

The OP above in this thread (the first post) goes into grave detail about both of those issues listed, with links to the Reddit wiki. It's worth a long cup of tea/coffee to side down and go through each topic and click each link. It will take time to run through the full checklist and fixes, flipping the printer over at times. But we are keeping the checklist as thorough as possible.

Clearly I have no claim against the eBay seller since the unit was still sealed, and if Creality "doesn't make" a Creality printer, WHO DOES?

A lot of resellers (those that bought the CR-6 in bulk from Creality during the KS at a larger discount, like 20 or more at a time) sale under the Creality name when they aren't Creality. You'll need to contact Creality directly. But most likely won't get an answer for some time.

I don't believe nearly enough a ruckus is being made over this, so I'm sure Creality will happily continue selling this garbage far & wide until they're stopped. Take a few moments to drop a line to your favorite 3d printing site...it doesn't matter which one. If they get enough instances they can't help but share on their sites. Try youtube also, especially if you're a patron of them. No, it won't fix the problems we have, but hopefully it will hit this negligent company where it hurts the most: in the wallet!

That's why we have the Reddit group, with over a 1000 pairs of eyes: https://www.reddit.com/r/CR6/

Folks, please go through the checklist as the OP in this thread as directed people to. It's pinned to the top of that group! As well as the Facebook group, it's pinned! https://www.reddit.com/r/CR6/comments/ibwvvf/cr6_postunboxing_checklist/

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@DreadKnight DreadKnight commented Nov 6, 2020

@educan911 This was all way before I've bumped into this gist trying to find help online, but yeah, I've found the stuff you listed around after quite a bit of googling, hence why I really appreciated the initiative you had with this Gist. I've edited my previous post and listed 2 more issues.

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@Sebazzz Sebazzz commented Nov 7, 2020

My mainboard just died. I'd hope because I got an early model it didn't affect me.
Started a new print after just completing two successful prints and my printer froze. Turned off my printer and turned it on again, nothing. No serial communication, not booting to the display. Tried reflashing firmware, this did not help either.

@oliverhbailey Do you have a ST-Link?

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@Sebazzz Sebazzz commented Nov 7, 2020

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@Sebazzz Sebazzz commented Nov 8, 2020

The ST-Link allows flashing without any jumpers, the CR-6 board doesn't have any either.

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@RyushoYosei RyushoYosei commented Nov 14, 2020

I had a mainboard fry USB, twice now, got a replacement, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYu99OomEac

Burned it out, smoked visibly, and made the USB on the PC non-responsive,

Also second mainboard made the Bed leveling non-functional,. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23mavz2GmAs

Why the HECK do they have the USB trying to backpower the comptuer, that's NOT EVEN needed and has caused my computer damage!

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@RyushoYosei RyushoYosei commented Nov 14, 2020

It's why I'm either going to see about finding, if possible an alternative board, because of such a stupid design issue, How they have left such a damaging design flaw in, is horrendeous, and so far has basically, I bought it from how happy I was with the Ender 3 pro I got...Now I have basically decided Id on't want to buy creality -anything- in the future because this shows just how...bad they are with design.

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@Sebazzz Sebazzz commented Nov 14, 2020

BigTreeTech has now launched their SKR CR6 board. You should certainly check that out! It also has support for their awesome touch screens.

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@satish-hsk satish-hsk commented Nov 25, 2020

Please add my incident too:
24. 25 November by /u/satish-hsk * Used the CR6 for 3D printing almost 50+ successful prints, updated to the latest firmware to "CR-6 SE-V2.0.1.2 English update firmware.zip" today and [boom] the very first print after the update. Now, I became a victim too. TC fellas better replace the board proactively. *

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@jacverberne jacverberne commented Dec 15, 2020

Good day, i received my 3Dprinter 24 November during assembling i noticed that there was a dent in de transport Y-axis!, i was hoping it did not affect the print quality, but sadly it does. It gives a small wobble in the print result twice, when bearings pass the dent.
Regarding this, it is a nice printer, and prints well.
But when I turned on the power switch 4 days later, white smoke came from under the printer, the display went on and directly off, it smelled that something was burning. Seems the USB port was blown. So put me on the list off casualties. Contacting Creality was a pain in the ass, I took two weeks before they agreed to send me a new board, and another two to ship the board. After acceptance by the carrier at 10 dec. it is received by line-haul and remaining there ever sins, I’ll guess I have to wait 4 weeks to receive the board. I’ll hope it wil be a new revision.
IMG_3771

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@GTIpunk87 GTIpunk87 commented Dec 20, 2020

As of 3 days ago i plugged in my Pi heard a pop, melted my micro hdmi i had plugged into my pi and tv, the micro usb between the printer and pi also melted, now my board no longer powers on. there's 0 volts going to my bed and there's scorch marks all over my board, almost unnoticeable
image
image

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@jacverberne jacverberne commented Dec 21, 2020

Use a modified USB cable with 5v disconnected ... Or buy the Bigtreetech board instead.
https://www.biqu.equipment/collections/control-board/products/bigtreetech-skr-cr6v1-0-mainboard-for-crealitycr-6s-e3d-printer.

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@GTIpunk87 GTIpunk87 commented Dec 21, 2020

I have posted a possible workaround for the CR6 in another reddit thread. This is for the 24v over usb.
https://www.reddit.com/r/CR6/comments/ke4bia/a_possible_cause_for_the_usb_shorting_issue/

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@jacverberne jacverberne commented Jan 2, 2021

Received a new motherboard, release 4.5.3 installed it, sadley it seems that the display and the PCB in the hotend is also damaged during the burout of the initial board. So, i still can't print :-(. the service of creality lacks of any speed, so this can thake a while.

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@RyushoYosei RyushoYosei commented Jan 3, 2021

...I'm trying to get them to at least replace the fried hotend sensor stuff after the last board damage issue, then if I can get that, I can at least use it with SD card only, until I can buy the alternate company mainboard that isn't a danger to my computer.

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@jacverberne jacverberne commented Jan 3, 2021

I ordered an new Hotend kit, parralel i try to claim warranty, so i can start printing again, i also ordered de Big tech tree aternative mainboard and display. as a backup. Three days ago i mailed creality support, no reply so far...curious how they handle this issue.
Keep you posted...

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@Manuelbi Manuelbi commented Jan 4, 2021

Creality cr6-se Everything has worked well so far. I just connected the USB port to my computer, then it sparked and my computer no longer works.
Ok i checked the port of the printer there is 23.6 volts going out and no ground so the computer has jumped.
Also it is dangerous for fire or electric shock. I checked when the machine is closed no power, when I turn it on the same and as soon I print there is 23.6 volts.

its not even 2 months that I have the machine I contact my seller and he communicates with Creality.
To follow !!!!!

E9CCC670-995A-43AF-BFEA-BE89F0FD9DFB
B988776E-2FB8-4F8E-9A8F-1E8974A5DFB0
6608C930-DC09-4D59-A011-D9742CB03D6F
566133F3-5C59-497E-AAED-F620AD56A769
4F7865BE-0D15-4337-9D2D-DA0D39A4BCB4
5775B5E6-B796-4C77-8752-BFCBDBB0CB2B
9FAD1A43-DE61-4FEF-8B46-19BD57327D86
9719DF54-A6E7-448C-B754-2CBE79A37BDF
A4376196-0037-45C4-9505-56B449C2F8B9
5CE7BA26-9100-4F04-9CBD-E0BE282358E8
CF1DE446-15CE-4EAD-8D72-FC4255FEC95D
9B9737C4-4F7C-4119-86BC-DC5FDD8C21C8
B733E920-AA52-4256-AD4A-9077303947F1

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@Manuelbi Manuelbi commented Jan 4, 2021

hello yes this is the first time I connect the printer to the computer

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@Manuelbi Manuelbi commented Jan 4, 2021

has screws below the USB port

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@Manuelbi Manuelbi commented Jan 5, 2021

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@mgerald21 mgerald21 commented Jan 5, 2021

Thanks for reporting all these issues and making others aware of them.
But I have a new cr6se MB4.5.2 (Europe) which behaves quite normal - (up to now).
E.g. the voltage at the usb port is 4.95V. Maybe something wired is going on at the first connect to an usb host port.

Best. GM

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@mgerald21 mgerald21 commented Jan 5, 2021

Ok just double checked that, frame is on earth and NOT connected to GND of the power supply. Resistance between both >>>MOhms.
And mine in on 230.

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@mgerald21 mgerald21 commented Jan 5, 2021

Yes, still functional.

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@Manuelbi Manuelbi commented Jan 6, 2021

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@eduncan911 eduncan911 commented Jan 6, 2021

@Manuelbi

But on the plus side, they informed me last night that they have stopped shipping CR 6 SE and CR 6 SE max

What do you mean they informed you they have stopped shipping?

The KS campaign is done shipping I think.

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@Manuelbi Manuelbi commented Jan 6, 2021

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@mgerald21 mgerald21 commented Jan 6, 2021

They still sell CR6SEs on their web shops and different warehouses (EU, UK) and also via retailers like aliexpress, banggood, etc.

I'm wondering if they fixed or changed something in the newer printers after the KS campaign.
And I don't think the main issue is the mainboard - maybe something with ground, earthing.

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@GTIpunk87 GTIpunk87 commented Jan 6, 2021

The issue came from a ground loop which i actually posted a fix for in this thread. The earth ground, yellow wire on heatbed, isn't grounded. Sitting on the clip leaves an open ground loop. If you place the wire on the heatbed under the clip where it says ground tape it with Kapton then place the clip over and screw back down.

I have made Creality aware of this issue months ago and are aware of it. I messaged a ton of Creality workers through all forms of social media. They've been in direct contact with Creality CEO with my name and case. And have messages to show they are aware.

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@jacverberne jacverberne commented Jan 6, 2021

I received their successor board 4.5.3, and i measured the voltage between the USB port and the chassis, it measures 0v difference! Seems they fixed the problem...

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@Manuelbi Manuelbi commented Jan 6, 2021

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@GTIpunk87 GTIpunk87 commented Jan 6, 2021

That doesn't explain how the USB port gets shorted. In addition, USB is by design, suppose to be isolated from the PC. Only the USB to Serial chip, CH34x should be powered by the PC, its and HID device. Only the earth ground should be shared between the PC and the Printer.

On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 11:12 AM GTIpunk87 @.***> wrote: @GTIpunk87 commented on this gist. ------------------------------ The issue came from a ground loop which i actually posted a fix for in this thread. The earth ground, yellow wire on heatbed, isn't grounded. Sitting on the clip leaves an open ground loop. If you place the wire on the heatbed under the clip where it says ground tape it with Kapton then place the clip over and screw back down. I have made Creality aware of this issue months ago and are aware of it. I messaged a ton of Creality workers through all forms of social media. They've been in direct contact with Creality CEO with my name and case. And have messages to show they are aware. — You are receiving this because you were mentioned. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub https://gist.github.com/ff4d716c8d2ad9bab1e87b3fc4238281#gistcomment-3584513, or unsubscribe https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AD6CBIBS72KABVOVSNNXE33SYSKXHANCNFSM4RXTKMPQ .

The machine is sharing a ground between the heat bed and the PSU, which is also grounded into the main board, this is a closed loop if the bed is connected properly. If not the loop remains open leaving the USB not grounded allowing unusual voltage

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@GTIpunk87 GTIpunk87 commented Jan 6, 2021

The "short" that occurs is because the metal clips make contact with the elements of the heat bed creating a circuit which can then be sent through the earth ground into the mainboard. If the wire is attached to the marked screw hole for ground then Kapton tape in place and then screw the clip over the tape, it stops connection with the head bed and ground wire with absolutely 0 chance of a short. Don't believe me ask any one of the FB community group I've walked through the fix.

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@jacverberne jacverberne commented Jan 8, 2021

The "short" that occurs is because the metal clips make contact with the elements of the heat bed creating a circuit which can then be sent through the earth ground into the mainboard. If the wire is attached to the marked screw hole for ground then Kapton tape in place and then screw the clip over the tape, it stops connection with the head bed and ground wire with absolutely 0 chance of a short. Don't believe me ask any one of the FB community group I've walked through the fix.

I check this, but it seems that Creality followed your advice, under both clips was Kapton tape applied.
IMG_4038

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@speters speters commented Jan 12, 2021

In Reddit: r/CR6 user Q_not commented that apparently diode D601 was left out in board revision CR-ERA_V1 1.0.3.

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@DavidPaget DavidPaget commented Jan 28, 2021

Hi, I have suffered the USB short destroying my main board issue. In my case the display was also burnt out. Creality have sent me a new main board and display. However, I still cannot heat the hot end or the bed. I do not see any sign of damage on the bed and when I try to preheat the bed there is no voltage across the bed power supply on the main board. I have tried two main boards and the result is the same. Has anyone any ideas on what to look for?

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@Sebazzz Sebazzz commented Jan 28, 2021

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@DavidPaget DavidPaget commented Jan 28, 2021

Thanks Sebazzz, I thought that too.
I see that there is a new firmware version today, I will try it.

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@Manuelbi Manuelbi commented Jan 28, 2021

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@DavidPaget DavidPaget commented Feb 4, 2021

Sebazzz,

You were right, updating to the latest firmware solved my problem, although how they could be sending out boards with firmware is a mystery (the firmware I had installed was only a week old).
So now... hot bed and nozzle heat up.
But... machine will not auto level. It does not detect the Z direction and crashes into the bed.
The photoelectric switch voltage supply is 3.3V. According to the specs for this switch the operating voltage is 5 - 20V. Creality state that 3.3 volts is normal.
The little blue light showing detection of deflection on the print nozzle mount lights up when the print head crashes into the bed.
Again any ideas?

My guess is that your board has the wrong firmware. Met vriendelijke groet, Sebastiaan Dammann

________________________________ Van: DavidPaget notifications@github.com Verzonden: Thursday, January 28, 2021 6:58:21 AM Aan: Sebazzz Sebazzz@noreply.github.com CC: Sebastiaan Dammann sebastiaandammann@outlook.com; Mention mention@noreply.github.com Onderwerp: Re: Sebazzz/ACrealityCR6Issue.md @DavidPaget commented on this gist.
________________________________ Hi, I have suffered the USB short destroying my main board issue. In my case the display was also burnt out. Creality have sent me a new main board and display. However, I still cannot heat the hot end or the bed. I do not see any sign of damage on the bed and when I try to preheat the bed there is no voltage across the bed power supply on the main board. I have tried two main boards and the result is the same. Has anyone any ideas on what to look for?

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@Sebazzz Sebazzz commented Feb 4, 2021

The photoelectric switch voltage supply is 3.3V. According to the specs for this switch the operating voltage is 5 - 20V. Creality state that 3.3 volts is normal.

That is on the BTT board - but leveling works fine there.
Maybe you have plugged it into the wrong port.

Best of luck!

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@DavidPaget DavidPaget commented Feb 5, 2021

  • Maybe you have plugged it into the wrong port.
    Yippee - you are right. The manual wrongly designates the photoelectric switch as the port nearest the display port (and is was on the old board). On the new board the correct port is the one labelled J4 in the manual but it is labelled J2 on the board
    Screenshot 2021-02-05 075818
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@Flatlinezor Flatlinezor commented Feb 24, 2021

So guys, apparently I am just about to buy one printer, everything is solved now? I dont plan to USB it to my pc btw, memory card is just fine as it has an adaptor anyway.

The blowing up and going up in flames concerns me more obviously, how can I make sure that the board I get is a proper one?

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@esunayg esunayg commented Feb 24, 2021

Just got mine 2 days ago, which came with fw 2.0.1.2 using with octopi with removed +5v (to affraid to connect to pc :D) works very nice for now. But it seems they have not changed the power switch, its feels very spongy. My first printer, and its ok for me. Used almost 500gr of filaments, still no smokes :)

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@Flatlinezor Flatlinezor commented Feb 24, 2021

Just got mine 2 days ago, which came with fw 2.0.1.2 using with octopi with removed +5v (to affraid to connect to pc :D) works very nice for now. But it seems they have not changed the power switch, its feels very spongy. My first printer, and its ok for me. Used almost 500gr of filaments, still no smokes :)

The switch has been changed earlier I believe to have the 3 tap in or maybe you refer to another defect i havent read earlier.

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@sternrulez sternrulez commented Feb 25, 2021

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@jacverberne jacverberne commented Feb 26, 2021

So guys, apparently I am just about to buy one printer, everything is solved now? I dont plan to USB it to my pc btw, memory card is just fine as it has an adaptor anyway.

The blowing up and going up in flames concerns me more obviously, how can I make sure that the board I get is a proper one?

I believe they solved the problem, assure that they send the printer with the new 4.53 mainboard and you will be fine. i installed the new board and works fine for me....

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@esunayg esunayg commented Feb 26, 2021

Just got mine 2 days ago, which came with fw 2.0.1.2 using with octopi with removed +5v (to affraid to connect to pc :D) works very nice for now. But it seems they have not changed the power switch, its feels very spongy. My first printer, and its ok for me. Used almost 500gr of filaments, still no smokes :)

The switch has been changed earlier I believe to have the 3 tap in or maybe you refer to another defect i havent read earlier.

I opened it up, and it has 3 pole power switch but there is a "but". I have 10 of those mini switches at my house (6 poles), they definately cliks wayy lauder. This one doesnt. It feels very cheapy.

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@api182 api182 commented Feb 27, 2021

So guys, apparently I am just about to buy one printer, everything is solved now? I dont plan to USB it to my pc btw, memory card is just fine as it has an adaptor anyway.
The blowing up and going up in flames concerns me more obviously, how can I make sure that the board I get is a proper one?

I believe they solved the problem, assure that they send the printer with the new 4.53 mainboard and you will be fine. i installed the new board and works fine for me....

😔 I ordered from their official store on the 17th Feb, arrived 25th Feb, still has a V4.5.2 board in it, a serial number that seems to date back to May 2020(?) and none of the Kapton tape under the bed clips...

This is me...
Reddit - How to decode the serial number?

@danloic

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@danloic danloic commented Feb 27, 2021

Hi every one,

I join in your discussion about CR6 SE issue. Mine explode two raspberry pi with 24V trought USB port, Creality send me one new motherboard (before I had V4.5.2 and now V4.5.3 motherboard). I installed this new in my CR6 and now I have reconnected one dead raspberry to measure the tension between the aluminum plat of the bed and the ground of the raspberry, I have always 24V so I have disconnect the earth cable of the bed to not burn an other raspberry.
Now, I tried all firmware compatible with the 4.5.3 motherboard but the hotend crash into the bed, the Z prob is down, probably because the 24V destroy the circuit on the modular head of the printer...

Is any body have this issue? bought this printer one month after the kickstater campain be over.

Sorry for my bad english...

@Flatlinezor

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@Flatlinezor Flatlinezor commented Feb 27, 2021

Hi every one,

I join in your discussion about CR6 SE issue. Mine explode two raspberry pi with 24V trought USB port, Creality send me one new motherboard (before I had V4.5.2 and now V4.5.3 motherboard). I installed this new in my CR6 and now I have reconnected one dead raspberry to measure the tension between the aluminum plat of the bed and the ground of the raspberry, I have always 24V so I have disconnect the earth cable of the bed to not burn an other raspberry.
Now, I tried all firmware compatible with the 4.5.3 motherboard but the hotend crash into the bed, the Z prob is down, probably because the 24V destroy the circuit on the modular head of the printer...

Is any body have this issue? bought this printer one month after the kickstater campain be over.

Sorry for my bad english...

Someone above had the same issue, your manyal stated an incorrect pklace to connect the Z axis, J2 or J4 is mixed I believe with the new motherboard. Switch those and it will work just fine.

Search for "J2" in this topic and you will find it. By the way, read the whole topic here and then you will be wiser and not ask stuff that has been fixed before....

@danloic

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@danloic danloic commented Feb 27, 2021

Hi every one,
I join in your discussion about CR6 SE issue. Mine explode two raspberry pi with 24V trought USB port, Creality send me one new motherboard (before I had V4.5.2 and now V4.5.3 motherboard). I installed this new in my CR6 and now I have reconnected one dead raspberry to measure the tension between the aluminum plat of the bed and the ground of the raspberry, I have always 24V so I have disconnect the earth cable of the bed to not burn an other raspberry.
Now, I tried all firmware compatible with the 4.5.3 motherboard but the hotend crash into the bed, the Z prob is down, probably because the 24V destroy the circuit on the modular head of the printer...
Is any body have this issue? bought this printer one month after the kickstater campain be over.
Sorry for my bad english...

Someone above had the same issue, your manyal stated an incorrect pklace to connect the Z axis, J2 or J4 is mixed I believe with the new motherboard. Switch those and it will work just fine.

Search for "J2" in this topic and you will find it. By the way, read the whole topic here and then you will be wiser and not ask stuff that has been fixed before....

Hi, thanks for your answer, I should have specified I tried all port for the prob, J2, J3 and J4, and on this website: https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/blogs/news/cr6-se-updates

This is the J4 port for the Z sensor and on an other this is J2. Which is the good ?

E3371AE7-0AC7-4E8A-94C7-BFDC33EC9557
D2724072-320D-445B-9CB0-179722074857

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@ChrisWeiss ChrisWeiss commented Feb 28, 2021

Wow, I had no idea these issues were so widespread, I assumed I just got a bad unit. I did replace my power switch after it started sparking early on and now my main board appears dead - thankfully, it hasnt taken down any USB devices attached to it.

I've already ordered a replacement SKR board, I'm not going to wait for Creality to do anything about this. I do steer my friends towards other printers now, though.

@danloic

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@danloic danloic commented Feb 28, 2021

Ok, I know where was the problem. After the first crash with the bed, I changed from J4 to J2. I upgraded the firmware of the motherboard and I start a zero point cycle. When the Z axis began to go down, I wanted to test if the Z axis stop with the hotend sensor, but if you don't have the optical sensor switch at the same time, the printer don't stop with the Z axis.
So now, almost everything is fine, but the earth cable under the bed is disconnect and it's very dangerous if the bed have a problem...

I did some measurements and the heat bed insulation is fail, this is the problem I think. Maybe if the 24v negative of the power supply is in common with the earth, the raspberry or other computer connect to the printer don't burn, but the fuse on the motherboard burn.

@danloic

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@danloic danloic commented Feb 28, 2021

First of all let me say that if you're not sure what to do, you shouldn't be doing it. Would you troubleshoot the computer in your vehicle based on a users forum on the Internet? If the answer is no, you shouldn't be cutting the earth ground to your printer. That last thing you ever want to cut is the earth ground. A bad design isn't fixed by cutting wires. Good luck!

you are absolutely beautiful! first i didn't cut the earth wire i disconnected it. then you say that you have to insulate the clips with kapton tape, but once isolated reconnect the earth wire to give yourself a clear conscience comes back exactly to disconnecting it! so don't give a lesson please!

@cyberfluke

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@cyberfluke cyberfluke commented Mar 11, 2021

Jebus H... This thread is half useful information, half bin fire that belongs on something like r/oldpeoplefacebook

Eventually teased out the info I needed though:
Kapton tape under the bed clips to prevent shorting the heater to ground (which helps fry the USB port) is good practice, but the board will still try and backpower the machine and fry things unless you sever the +5v line in the USB cable used to connect to the machine.

@DavidPaget

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@DavidPaget DavidPaget commented Mar 12, 2021

Kapton tape under the bed clips to prevent shorting the heater to ground (which helps fry the USB port) is good practice, but the board will still try and backpower the machine and fry things unless you sever the +5v line in the USB cable used to connect to the machine.

Hi Cyberfluke. I have put kapton tape under the bed clips, it made no difference. I also do not believe the main issue is with the USB power supply trying to back power the printer.

On my machine there is ~20V between the USB ground (measured on the metal shroud of the USB plug and USB ground wire) and machine ground (measure on any bolt head on the machine). I think that the issue arises when the metal shroud of the mirco USB socket on the board contacts the metal housing of the printer. Then, on the equipment you are connecting to the printer, if that equipment has a common ground between the USB ground wire and the outer metal surround (which I believe should be normal) the equipment will be getting 24V instead of 5V

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