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Creality CR-6 issue list (including listing of motherboard issues)

Creality CR-6 issue list

This is an initiative to create an overview of the issues found with the Creality CR-6 SE.

As of this writing (2020-09-19) the large number of the motherboard issues have not been publicly acknowledged. Hopefully this overview forces Creality to acknowledge the issues with the Creality CR-6 SE leveling free 3d printer.

Update 2021-07-17 from Creality

According to Creality all issues should be resolved in the newer models:

Here are the improvements we did as below: 1, remove the step-down IC, from 24 V to 12 V. After many times verified, There is no difference from 24 V. 2, use new motherboard, from the design aspect, remove the buck IC, better circuit design. 3, the fuse is the self-recovery fuse, the principle is to absorb current, but easy to cause smoke. After experimental evidence, 0 Ω resistance can play the same role, and will not smoke. 4, increase the PVC sheet, insulating tape, etc., the purpose to block the hot bed bare position, to prevent the circuit > conductivity. 5, Remove the ground wire and organize the circuit conduction.

They've also been sending some kits to some users so they can fix the issue on their own printer.

Power switch failure

The power switch fails. This can cause it to turn off mid-print, not turn off at all, or smoke coming from the switch. It appears that the issue is two-fold:

  1. Creality used the wrong crimps for the switch: the switch is rated 10A, but 16A crimps were used for connecting the wires to the switch.

Crusty pins

  1. The switch itself is of bad quality and does not make good contact internal contact. Eventually the switch fails.

Some users have been replacing the switches proactively. It is very hard to get into contact with support, and otherwise it takes weeks for something as trivial as a switch to arrive.

This issue has been sort-of acknowledged by Creality.

ACK not?

It appears that in the newer batches Creality has switched to a new switch. You can identify this switch by that it has three prongs.

UPDATE 2020-12-08: From printer produced in November a new switch has been used with three pins. This doesn't have the sparking issues.

new switch

Auto-bed leveling not leveling

In multiple reported cases the auto-bed leveling system can't level the bed. That is especially annoying because the print bed does not have bed leveling screws. There appears to be a workaround by manually leveling the bed tightening screws.

Filament run-out sensor has run out

The filament run-out sensor seems to have a high failure rate. There appear to be multiple issues happening:

  1. The PCB of the filament run-out sensor is not fixed in the housing. This appears to be fixable by the user though (video on YouTube).

Filament runout sensor fix

  1. The wiring to the filament runout sensor can become loose due to vibrations. Fixable as seen in this video.

  2. The filament sensor fails entirely: it never detects filament. It is not fixable, but can be bypassed by using a 10K resistor.

Filament runout sensor bypass

Motherboard issues

The largest issue with the CR-6 SE is the motherboard issues. It cannot be worked around by the user and requires a replacement.

UPDATE 2020-12-08: It appears that there is a new motherboard revision 2020-06-12 v4.5.3 now

These issues have not been (fully) acknowledged by Creality

There appear to be several issues happening:

USB issues

  1. The printer motherboard can be powered up via USB, and this causes boot failures because the motherboard gets confused. This can be worked around by using an USB optocoupler or preventing the USB 5V pin connecting.

  2. The printer works fine, but connecting it via USB blows up the USB host ports on the Raspberry PI or computer attached.

  3. The printer work fine, but plugging in an USB cable blows up the printer. Sparks may occur.

USB sparky

Overheating or burning of the motherboard

Several reports have been made that the motherboard PCB itself melts down, accompanied with smoke. Sometimes this happens shortly after first power on or shortly after the first print. However, it can and has happened after two weeks too.

This issue has been partially acknowledged by Creality, stating that 0.15% of the motherboards are affected.

0.15% - yes

Back on the envelope calculation: 0.15% means that on 10.000 units only 15 motherboards are affected. That seems reasonable, but as of this writing only 4000 units were received. Count maybe 1000 sold in retail and you come to about 5000 units "in production".

Let's count

Let's count. To protect the privacy of the people who posted it I'm using the initials of the people, so you can see there is no double counting.

  1. 4 August by JL Just received my CR6 SE yesterday. But quickly notice this major issue. The moment it is turned on the heat bed automatically heats up without touching anything. Luckily I have a good and responsive reseller that is sorting out with Creality now.
JL
  1. 17 August by JW - Put the cr-6 se together last night, ran an eevee test. It worked awesome. This morning turned it on and it popped with a puff of smoke.

JW

  1. 15 August by /u/The_Sqeuakening I wish I had looked for this place before assembling my printer, the motherboard on mine burned as soon as I started it. [...] I had set the power supply to the correct voltage for my region so I am fairly certain it was not the power supply.

  2. 25 August by /u/Prymus142 Prints great. Rather it did, Now the screen won't come on. So I have a brick.

  3. 29 August by /u/Kingpenny1 Second Time Turned On, Smoke Poured Out. Be Careful!

Kingpenny1
  1. 1 September by TI Well my CR-6 SE just went up in smoke. I just set it up. It was heating and then started smoking.
TI
  1. 4 September by HW it printed once perfectly. The 2nd time turning it on it started smoking
HW
  1. 4 September by "Mike" *In case you were wondering what it looks like when a CR6 burns up, here is my buddy Mike's. Smoked on first start up... *
Mike
  1. 4 September by DP After a week or so of small successful prints I was looking forward to a weekend off work of putting the CR 6 se through the paces and really testing it. So far I have only printed when I could be around to monitor it and I have been turning off the power to it when not in use. Apparently I am the latest victim of the faulty motherboard issue apparently. When I least expected it I just leveled the bed and was ready to start another small print when this happened. Reaching out to support to see how they handle it.
DP DPb
  1. 12 September by JJ 3 weeks ago my machine would not turn on. Checked the power cable, the fuse and figured it was the switch; it was not making as sound when turning on or off and all of the wires where on tightly. Ordered a new switch and replaced it by following [redacted]'s post using the Digi-key switch and fuses. Was finally able to replace it today and then my motherboard threw off a large spark who do i need to contact for a replacement because this is so frustrating. It worked for almost 2 weeks in the beginning and has been down ever since
JJ
  1. 14 September by RB So here's a pic of the traces that are burning on the back of the main board. My board next to one that is burn't. The Stepper motor 10.7v trace is burnt open as well as one of the 24v traces.
RB
  1. 15 September by JH *plugged in my USB cable to my computer. Fried both the computer and the printer... USB Port on the Printer CB was shorted the gnd and D+ pins. *
JH
  1. 15 September by CH Looks like I’m now a member of the burnt motherboard club... I’ve had mine for over two weeks with no issues and had just finished a 20 hour print.
CH
  1. 16 September by MB Mine cant boot after spark and smoke, plug in usb for octoprint and electrical spark coming out.. cant even boot, already raised a ticket to creality and hopefully they reply soonest..

  2. 16 September by AD So I plugged in my microUSB cable to connect it my PC and it looks like my USB shorted itself, smoked a little, and I saw a flash of flames.

  3. 17 September by JR Decided to try to try my hand at octoprint. Set it up on my windows machine and decided to try it out for this print. Did my level, and went to connect usb first with the 5v pin blocked as I have seen recommended. My cable started to smoke and quickly hot enough to melt. Pulled that out quick. Picked up another cable, plugged it in to my pc and then went to plug it in, and it started parking as soon as it touched the micro usb port shield! What am I doing wrong?

  4. 19 September by Joel Telling HOLY CRAP. Went to plug in a USB cable on the @Creality3dprint CR-6 SE and THERE WERE SPARKS. Power cycled printer, and now it’s stuck at this screen and dead. :(

  5. 19 September by /u/dominos789 My CR6 is currently stuck on the loading screen and does not boot. Have tried updating the main firmware and the display firmware without any luck. Tried formatting the SD card, changing the file name, keeping the SD card pushed in. I am able to connect using octoprint and it seems to be stuck in a boot loop (printer sends a "start" command when already on, per octoprint).

  6. 19 September by NO We connected the Printer with the micro USB to the PC to start the first test prints quick. It starts to smell and the usb cable become very hot. Now the printer restarts every time with every action. To be a bit more specific: after the usb plug was removed, we killed the power and had it restarted.The display started up as well, like it should, but as soon as you went to leveling or any other option and you pushed 2-3 buttons it restarted everytime.

  7. 21 September by LR Well there goes my mainboard. I went to change the e-steps with pronterface, the second I plugged in the usb. There was spark no magic smoke though.

LR
  1. 23 September by /u/McNick97 Thought I checked everything... Apparently not. First time powering up the printer and flashing the firmware worked. Then I tried lowering the x gantry. Didn't move and suddenly I heard a poof sound and smelled the magic smoke.
McNick97
  1. 24 September by almumen When I turn on the printer, it immediately heats up non stop that I had to stop it before it catches fire! look at the heat bed temperature against the target temperature! Here I set the target @60 thinking that 0 is the problem. but the heating continues past 60 non-stop!

  1. 28 September by /u/Yeraze Just happened. After a few days of successful prints, I just had a long 20hour print finish successfully. Was removing it from the bed when there was a sudden “hiss” and flash visible from inside the case.. a few flames and a ton of smoke. Opened it up, you can see the burn where something blew. Ironically, the blue fuse right next to it is perfectly fine. That part under the heatsink is visibly loose now, all the traces burnt.
Yeraze

Seems not as horrible as it seems, but it does seem that the failure rate is slightly about 0.15%. Remember that 50% of the 10,000 backers did not receive their unit yet (as of writing at most 5000 units have arrived) - but also an unknown number has been sold through resellers (1000-3000?).

Final thoughts

We're not at the end of the Kickstarter yet. The units sent on 4-10 August are now arriving in Europe. This means that over 50% of the units did not arrive yet.

Secondly, this has already been a horribly handled Kickstarter. Creality has been either dishonest about shipping ("express shipping" "we will ramp up production to three shipments per week") or has switched their decisions multiple times ("no sorry, we ship by top countries first, oh and we forgot to mention that add-ons orders will be shipped last").

If you live in Europe or Australia, and ordered add-ons, that means you're at the back of the line when it comes to shipping. Those printers are now (mid-September) being shipped. With shipping times being over 40 days, imagine receiving your printer at the end of October, only to have it go up in a puff of smoke.

Alternatives

If you're looking to buy the Creality CR-6, note that there are plenty of alternative printers that work just as well (or even better). For the price of a Creality CR-6 SE, for instance, you can get a BIQU B1 with a BLTouch and TMC2209 drivers in UART mode (sold separately).

@speters
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speters commented Jan 12, 2021

In Reddit: r/CR6 user Q_not commented that apparently diode D601 was left out in board revision CR-ERA_V1 1.0.3.

@DavidPaget
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DavidPaget commented Jan 28, 2021

Hi, I have suffered the USB short destroying my main board issue. In my case the display was also burnt out. Creality have sent me a new main board and display. However, I still cannot heat the hot end or the bed. I do not see any sign of damage on the bed and when I try to preheat the bed there is no voltage across the bed power supply on the main board. I have tried two main boards and the result is the same. Has anyone any ideas on what to look for?

@Sebazzz
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Sebazzz commented Jan 28, 2021

@DavidPaget
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DavidPaget commented Jan 28, 2021

Thanks Sebazzz, I thought that too.
I see that there is a new firmware version today, I will try it.

@Manuelbi
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Manuelbi commented Jan 28, 2021

@DavidPaget
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DavidPaget commented Feb 4, 2021

Sebazzz,

You were right, updating to the latest firmware solved my problem, although how they could be sending out boards with firmware is a mystery (the firmware I had installed was only a week old).
So now... hot bed and nozzle heat up.
But... machine will not auto level. It does not detect the Z direction and crashes into the bed.
The photoelectric switch voltage supply is 3.3V. According to the specs for this switch the operating voltage is 5 - 20V. Creality state that 3.3 volts is normal.
The little blue light showing detection of deflection on the print nozzle mount lights up when the print head crashes into the bed.
Again any ideas?

My guess is that your board has the wrong firmware. Met vriendelijke groet, Sebastiaan Dammann

________________________________ Van: DavidPaget notifications@github.com Verzonden: Thursday, January 28, 2021 6:58:21 AM Aan: Sebazzz Sebazzz@noreply.github.com CC: Sebastiaan Dammann sebastiaandammann@outlook.com; Mention mention@noreply.github.com Onderwerp: Re: Sebazzz/ACrealityCR6Issue.md @DavidPaget commented on this gist.
________________________________ Hi, I have suffered the USB short destroying my main board issue. In my case the display was also burnt out. Creality have sent me a new main board and display. However, I still cannot heat the hot end or the bed. I do not see any sign of damage on the bed and when I try to preheat the bed there is no voltage across the bed power supply on the main board. I have tried two main boards and the result is the same. Has anyone any ideas on what to look for?

@Sebazzz
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Sebazzz commented Feb 4, 2021

The photoelectric switch voltage supply is 3.3V. According to the specs for this switch the operating voltage is 5 - 20V. Creality state that 3.3 volts is normal.

That is on the BTT board - but leveling works fine there.
Maybe you have plugged it into the wrong port.

Best of luck!

@DavidPaget
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DavidPaget commented Feb 5, 2021

  • Maybe you have plugged it into the wrong port.
    Yippee - you are right. The manual wrongly designates the photoelectric switch as the port nearest the display port (and is was on the old board). On the new board the correct port is the one labelled J4 in the manual but it is labelled J2 on the board
    Screenshot 2021-02-05 075818

@Flatlinezor
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Flatlinezor commented Feb 24, 2021

So guys, apparently I am just about to buy one printer, everything is solved now? I dont plan to USB it to my pc btw, memory card is just fine as it has an adaptor anyway.

The blowing up and going up in flames concerns me more obviously, how can I make sure that the board I get is a proper one?

@esunayg
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esunayg commented Feb 24, 2021

Just got mine 2 days ago, which came with fw 2.0.1.2 using with octopi with removed +5v (to affraid to connect to pc :D) works very nice for now. But it seems they have not changed the power switch, its feels very spongy. My first printer, and its ok for me. Used almost 500gr of filaments, still no smokes :)

@Flatlinezor
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Flatlinezor commented Feb 24, 2021

Just got mine 2 days ago, which came with fw 2.0.1.2 using with octopi with removed +5v (to affraid to connect to pc :D) works very nice for now. But it seems they have not changed the power switch, its feels very spongy. My first printer, and its ok for me. Used almost 500gr of filaments, still no smokes :)

The switch has been changed earlier I believe to have the 3 tap in or maybe you refer to another defect i havent read earlier.

@sternrulez
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sternrulez commented Feb 25, 2021

@jacverberne
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jacverberne commented Feb 26, 2021

So guys, apparently I am just about to buy one printer, everything is solved now? I dont plan to USB it to my pc btw, memory card is just fine as it has an adaptor anyway.

The blowing up and going up in flames concerns me more obviously, how can I make sure that the board I get is a proper one?

I believe they solved the problem, assure that they send the printer with the new 4.53 mainboard and you will be fine. i installed the new board and works fine for me....

@esunayg
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esunayg commented Feb 26, 2021

Just got mine 2 days ago, which came with fw 2.0.1.2 using with octopi with removed +5v (to affraid to connect to pc :D) works very nice for now. But it seems they have not changed the power switch, its feels very spongy. My first printer, and its ok for me. Used almost 500gr of filaments, still no smokes :)

The switch has been changed earlier I believe to have the 3 tap in or maybe you refer to another defect i havent read earlier.

I opened it up, and it has 3 pole power switch but there is a "but". I have 10 of those mini switches at my house (6 poles), they definately cliks wayy lauder. This one doesnt. It feels very cheapy.

@api182
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api182 commented Feb 27, 2021

So guys, apparently I am just about to buy one printer, everything is solved now? I dont plan to USB it to my pc btw, memory card is just fine as it has an adaptor anyway.
The blowing up and going up in flames concerns me more obviously, how can I make sure that the board I get is a proper one?

I believe they solved the problem, assure that they send the printer with the new 4.53 mainboard and you will be fine. i installed the new board and works fine for me....

😔 I ordered from their official store on the 17th Feb, arrived 25th Feb, still has a V4.5.2 board in it, a serial number that seems to date back to May 2020(?) and none of the Kapton tape under the bed clips...

This is me...
Reddit - How to decode the serial number?

@danloic
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danloic commented Feb 27, 2021

Hi every one,

I join in your discussion about CR6 SE issue. Mine explode two raspberry pi with 24V trought USB port, Creality send me one new motherboard (before I had V4.5.2 and now V4.5.3 motherboard). I installed this new in my CR6 and now I have reconnected one dead raspberry to measure the tension between the aluminum plat of the bed and the ground of the raspberry, I have always 24V so I have disconnect the earth cable of the bed to not burn an other raspberry.
Now, I tried all firmware compatible with the 4.5.3 motherboard but the hotend crash into the bed, the Z prob is down, probably because the 24V destroy the circuit on the modular head of the printer...

Is any body have this issue? bought this printer one month after the kickstater campain be over.

Sorry for my bad english...

@Flatlinezor
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Flatlinezor commented Feb 27, 2021

Hi every one,

I join in your discussion about CR6 SE issue. Mine explode two raspberry pi with 24V trought USB port, Creality send me one new motherboard (before I had V4.5.2 and now V4.5.3 motherboard). I installed this new in my CR6 and now I have reconnected one dead raspberry to measure the tension between the aluminum plat of the bed and the ground of the raspberry, I have always 24V so I have disconnect the earth cable of the bed to not burn an other raspberry.
Now, I tried all firmware compatible with the 4.5.3 motherboard but the hotend crash into the bed, the Z prob is down, probably because the 24V destroy the circuit on the modular head of the printer...

Is any body have this issue? bought this printer one month after the kickstater campain be over.

Sorry for my bad english...

Someone above had the same issue, your manyal stated an incorrect pklace to connect the Z axis, J2 or J4 is mixed I believe with the new motherboard. Switch those and it will work just fine.

Search for "J2" in this topic and you will find it. By the way, read the whole topic here and then you will be wiser and not ask stuff that has been fixed before....

@danloic
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danloic commented Feb 27, 2021

Hi every one,
I join in your discussion about CR6 SE issue. Mine explode two raspberry pi with 24V trought USB port, Creality send me one new motherboard (before I had V4.5.2 and now V4.5.3 motherboard). I installed this new in my CR6 and now I have reconnected one dead raspberry to measure the tension between the aluminum plat of the bed and the ground of the raspberry, I have always 24V so I have disconnect the earth cable of the bed to not burn an other raspberry.
Now, I tried all firmware compatible with the 4.5.3 motherboard but the hotend crash into the bed, the Z prob is down, probably because the 24V destroy the circuit on the modular head of the printer...
Is any body have this issue? bought this printer one month after the kickstater campain be over.
Sorry for my bad english...

Someone above had the same issue, your manyal stated an incorrect pklace to connect the Z axis, J2 or J4 is mixed I believe with the new motherboard. Switch those and it will work just fine.

Search for "J2" in this topic and you will find it. By the way, read the whole topic here and then you will be wiser and not ask stuff that has been fixed before....

Hi, thanks for your answer, I should have specified I tried all port for the prob, J2, J3 and J4, and on this website: https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/blogs/news/cr6-se-updates

This is the J4 port for the Z sensor and on an other this is J2. Which is the good ?

E3371AE7-0AC7-4E8A-94C7-BFDC33EC9557
D2724072-320D-445B-9CB0-179722074857

@ChrisWeiss
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ChrisWeiss commented Feb 28, 2021

Wow, I had no idea these issues were so widespread, I assumed I just got a bad unit. I did replace my power switch after it started sparking early on and now my main board appears dead - thankfully, it hasnt taken down any USB devices attached to it.

I've already ordered a replacement SKR board, I'm not going to wait for Creality to do anything about this. I do steer my friends towards other printers now, though.

@danloic
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danloic commented Feb 28, 2021

Ok, I know where was the problem. After the first crash with the bed, I changed from J4 to J2. I upgraded the firmware of the motherboard and I start a zero point cycle. When the Z axis began to go down, I wanted to test if the Z axis stop with the hotend sensor, but if you don't have the optical sensor switch at the same time, the printer don't stop with the Z axis.
So now, almost everything is fine, but the earth cable under the bed is disconnect and it's very dangerous if the bed have a problem...

I did some measurements and the heat bed insulation is fail, this is the problem I think. Maybe if the 24v negative of the power supply is in common with the earth, the raspberry or other computer connect to the printer don't burn, but the fuse on the motherboard burn.

@danloic
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danloic commented Feb 28, 2021

First of all let me say that if you're not sure what to do, you shouldn't be doing it. Would you troubleshoot the computer in your vehicle based on a users forum on the Internet? If the answer is no, you shouldn't be cutting the earth ground to your printer. That last thing you ever want to cut is the earth ground. A bad design isn't fixed by cutting wires. Good luck!

you are absolutely beautiful! first i didn't cut the earth wire i disconnected it. then you say that you have to insulate the clips with kapton tape, but once isolated reconnect the earth wire to give yourself a clear conscience comes back exactly to disconnecting it! so don't give a lesson please!

@cyberfluke
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cyberfluke commented Mar 11, 2021

Jebus H... This thread is half useful information, half bin fire that belongs on something like r/oldpeoplefacebook

Eventually teased out the info I needed though:
Kapton tape under the bed clips to prevent shorting the heater to ground (which helps fry the USB port) is good practice, but the board will still try and backpower the machine and fry things unless you sever the +5v line in the USB cable used to connect to the machine.

@DavidPaget
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DavidPaget commented Mar 12, 2021

Kapton tape under the bed clips to prevent shorting the heater to ground (which helps fry the USB port) is good practice, but the board will still try and backpower the machine and fry things unless you sever the +5v line in the USB cable used to connect to the machine.

Hi Cyberfluke. I have put kapton tape under the bed clips, it made no difference. I also do not believe the main issue is with the USB power supply trying to back power the printer.

On my machine there is ~20V between the USB ground (measured on the metal shroud of the USB plug and USB ground wire) and machine ground (measure on any bolt head on the machine). I think that the issue arises when the metal shroud of the mirco USB socket on the board contacts the metal housing of the printer. Then, on the equipment you are connecting to the printer, if that equipment has a common ground between the USB ground wire and the outer metal surround (which I believe should be normal) the equipment will be getting 24V instead of 5V

@docgrumpy
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docgrumpy commented Dec 13, 2021

I can confirm the frying of the USB Port and support chips due to lack of quality control on the heated bed.
I received my printer last year bot did not bother to unpack it until now.
After assembling it, on first powering on, there was a cracking plop sound and the usb Port is unresponsive since.
After examining the voltages, i can measure around 20 volts DC on the metal shielding of the usb port.
On visual inspection, i found a burned U9 ic and the ch340 (U9) next to it has a hole in the package.
After controling wiring, a short between 24V from the heatbed an the ground connection on the heatbed was found.
One of the clamps has mounting holes near the outline of the heating meander on the heatbed, poorly positioning of the foil carrying the
traces for the heatbed the reason.
So the clamp and one of the screws for this clamp damaged the isolation of the coating and shorted the 24v line to the chassis.
After removing the clamp and screw, the short is gone, but the mainboard is still destroyed, so i wonder, how will i get a replacement for it?
The U9 Ic is not available in Europe in any decent delivery timeframes, so even a simply replacement of broken components is not possible.
I own 6 different Creality printers, everyone of the has serious flaws due to lack of quality control or simply dumb design decisions,
and i will certainly never again finance a Craelity kickstarter campaign.

@speters
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speters commented Dec 13, 2021

U9 seem to be the usual TVS diodes. You can use different ones, no need to match the exact type.

Maybe you find one of those cheap serial-to-USB modules which comes with TVS diodes of the same pinout and a CH340, so you could transplant the parts. Might be cheaper than buying the bare parts.

If you can not do this kind of soldering, then just remove the CH340 and hook a serial-to-USB module directly to the serial data lines.

@docgrumpy
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docgrumpy commented Dec 14, 2021

Soldering is not the problem, i have half a cenrtury of experience.
From the pinout, the one fat pin and the marking on U9, the first suggestion is a AD6315 Voltage reference supervisor,
are you shure about the diode?
I have a handfull of CH340 modules to strip for parts, but i did not find any ic near USB port with this kind of 143 Layout.
But i will try, after waiting for an answer from Creality Support.
My guess is, there are more damaged parts, because GUI comes up, some functions work, but if you try to start a print from TF,
it homes, then comes up a message saying "this could take minutes", maybe the autolevelling routine, but it hangs there without going further.

@speters
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speters commented Dec 14, 2021

@docgrumpy:
I could not find any reference to AD6315 other than a VFD driver, and thats definitively no the case on this board. So yes, I'm pretty sure about U9 being TVS diodes (board 4.5.2, 4.5.3 has different numbering with this part being U8 and CH340 being U9). The pads of this part should only have connections to VUSB, GND and D+, D-. If this TVS array is toast, also check D18 (D17 on newer revision).
USB would work without these TVS (and the Chinese leave them out regularly to save a few deci-cents), but better safe than sorry...
From the pictures, P1 looks like a candidate for carrying vcc, tx, rx, gnd. So maybe just rip out those defective parts and hook a serial-to-usb module directly to the board as I wrote before.

@docgrumpy
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docgrumpy commented Dec 14, 2021

Ok, i will try replaceing CH340 and D18 later or tomorrow.
D18 is dead also
PCB Creality Cr6SE

@docgrumpy
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docgrumpy commented Dec 22, 2021

Hi again,

after replaceing the obvious defective parts, i reassembled the printer and checked for any further shorts between 24V, 5V, and Gnd, did not fin´d any further.
After powering on, the display comes up, i can select movment in control and the printers moves in every direction on manual selection,
but Autohome stalls after testing all the endstop positions and moving the printhead to the buildplate center, display showing "this could take minutes" infinitely.
Changeing the pcb against a BTT replacement shows also weird behaviour:
Autohome moves to all endstop positions several times and, after finally reaching the center position on the buildplate, stalls like the Craelity PCB.
Trying to Autolevel starts at position1, raising z-position several mm, moving to 2, raising z-position further and continuing to the end, always raising z, never touching the buildplate.

Maybe the Extruder PCB with the electronics for the autolevel sensor is also damaged by the initial shortcircuit from 24v to gnd.
Did anyone have had an similar behaviour?

@michelle11227
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michelle11227 commented Apr 11, 2022

IF ANYONE COULD HELP PLEASE. No display on touchscreen after firmware upgrade on cr6. did the touchscreen first,and it flashed fine, all the weird numbers showed up, 001,002,006,000 ect. It ended, i shut off and took out card. Went to flash motherboard, and blue light started to flash, so i thought it was good, but now when i turn cr6 on, the screen is just blank.

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