Skip to content

Instantly share code, notes, and snippets.

Embed
What would you like to do?
Hacking the Rectangular Starlink Dishy Cable
@MooreDoing
Copy link

MooreDoing commented Jul 14, 2022

Very interested to hear the outcome if this is tried. 🤘🏼

@tuckdog
Copy link

tuckdog commented Jul 14, 2022

@MooreDoing
Copy link

MooreDoing commented Jul 14, 2022

That’s amazing! Starlink install 2.0 for me at some point. 🍻

@maxengel
Copy link

maxengel commented Jul 27, 2022

What connector...

Neutrik NE8FDY-C6 and NE8MC6. I'm using them with a travel trailer and I repurposed an existing port (I made the round, aluminum plate inwhich the panel-mount connector sits):

Outside_port_cropped

This is great! @oetkb: I have a newer Dishy McFlatface and have read it needs Cat8 and that some people have experienced issues. Have you found that the NE8FDY-C6-B works without issues?

@oetkb
Copy link

oetkb commented Jul 28, 2022

It's extremely unlikely that you'd need Cat8 since the stock cables are Cat5e. The Neutrik connectors work great; no issues.

@maxengel
Copy link

maxengel commented Jul 28, 2022

It's extremely unlikely that you'd need Cat8 since the stock cables are Cat5e. The Neutrik connectors work great; no issues.

Got it! That's great to know. I'm going to try that setup with my camper. Out of curiosity, are you using foam or something else to form a seal? FWIW, I was looking at using this.

@oetkb
Copy link

oetkb commented Jul 28, 2022

Out of curiosity, are you using foam or something else to form a seal?

Since I repurposed the cable/satellite inlet most of the seal is supplied by the rubber gaskets for the inlet. Neutrik makes an optional gasket for the panel mount connector that I found and purchased on eBay.

@jmartin83
Copy link

jmartin83 commented Aug 18, 2022

Hi ,
Regarding the excess cable and coiling, on regular Ethernet word seems to be that it doesn't put out enough power to create a strong magnetic field, but seeing that this is PoE could this be a factor ?
I need to do more testing but, I basically had the dish on the ground level, lots of obstructions but cable uncoiled, 125 to 270 Mbps , average in the high 180 Mbps ( 13 samples )
I've moved the antenna to the roof this week, no more obstructions, but cable is coiled nicely ... and speeds are 96 to 188 Mbps , average in the 140 Mbps. ( 13 samples )
I guess a lots of factor are at play like network jitter and possibly weather . But what used to be my average dl speed , is now just the max it reaches on occasion .
Thoughts ?

@Missoulajeff
Copy link

Missoulajeff commented Sep 2, 2022

Hello All, Thanks for the detailed and expert comments. Total newb here. Sorry in advance!

Problem Set: I need to mount my Starlink Gen 2 Dishy approximatley 195' from the ideal router location inside our cabin. As you all know, the longest pre-made Starlink cable is 150'

Potential Solution One:- Place Starlink Router in weather proof box <75' from Dishy location, then use Starlink ethernet adaptor and run 23 gauge Cat5e from Router box all the way to cabin router location and install a third party router there.

Does anyone have corrections or comments on this strategy? Can someone give me good links to high quality ethernet cable? This is going to be running underground, in a 3/4" schedule 40 PVC conduit, about 6" from a 110v electrical cable buried in second conduit.
I'm assuming this ethernet needs to be shielded. Correct? And do I need to ground one end of it?

Potential Solution Two: Cut custom 90 degree Starlink cable termination off, use weather-proof cable coupler to join the cut end of the Starlink cable to new 23 Gauge Cat5e cable, then attach the cut-off starlink termination to the far end of the Cat5 cable and plug that into the Starlink router located in the cabin.

Does anyone have corrections or comments on this strategy? Is this coupler recommended and appropriate for this situation?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FLY7233/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A130RVB6PSAL46&psc=1
What ethernet connectors / terminations do you suggest for the cut starlink cable and the Cat5 ethernet cable at the location of the coupler?
Do you have any advice on how a novice like me can get the wiring correct? I see reference to "type B" wiring but have no reference. Are ther diagrams out there?
And will the POE that is required from Starlink router to Dishy work in this arrangment?

Thanks so much for any and all assistance. My preference is to go with Potential Solution Two because it eliminates the extra energy used by the second router and eliminates the need to stash the starlink router out in the outdoors.

Jeff

@jfpdazey
Copy link

jfpdazey commented Oct 25, 2022

@oetkb Planning on doing basically the same setup in the "wet bay" of our RV with the components you've mentioned. After a lot of searching, it seems like yours is the best option to get quality components, full shielding, and a measure of waterproofing/dust resistance - at a reasonable price.

Looking at the instructions on the NE8FDY-C6 (on the Neutrik website), step "J" indicates a "Grounding Option" where you are instructed to "Insert contact only if screen should be connected to front panel". See the screenshot included below.

My question is, if I'm aiming at maintaining the full shielding from Dishy to router by using these Neutrik components, letting the router/power cable take card of ground, should I skip this "Grounding Option"? My gut says 'yes', but I'd like to be certain.

Thanks in advance!
John

image

@oetkb
Copy link

oetkb commented Oct 25, 2022

@jfpdazey: The short answer is, "Yes, skip the panel grounding".

It's unlikely to actually make a difference with the types of mounting we're using (i.e., non-conductive "panels" unconnected to any possible ground path) but better to be safe than sorry.

@jfpdazey
Copy link

jfpdazey commented Oct 26, 2022

@oetkb Perfect! Thanks for your quick reply. Makes sense given your point about the “panel” itself not being connected to ground.

@francc01
Copy link

francc01 commented Oct 26, 2022

Hello All.
I want to do a similar thing.
To remove the starlink router, as i find it to limited in terms of configuration.
Besides that, i want to be able to connect most equipment via cable.

One issue, i am unable to order the provided PoE injector, as amazon does not list it anymore for sale.
Would the following one be a good option?
(ps i can only order from Amazon spain due to my location).

its 90W output, and has a power supply integrated.
A bit more€€€ but thats ok.

The idea is to put dishy V2 more or less 150 to 200 meters from my main house on a high support.
The PoE injector will only be used for powering Dishy V2. No other devices.

I have for that a uws-litle-16-PoE switch and a edgerouterx.
I am aware of the switching of the pairs to match up as well dishy and as well the PoE injector.

Trying to avoid bricking first connection of dishy ;) would be a shame after waiting so long...
Thank you

EDIT: I have at the moment the following injector:
48V 0.5A 24W PoE adapter from tp-link (TL-POE4824G). Its a passive 1 GB injector
If i can use this one, then it should be ok and i do not need to buy the more expensive mentioned.

@WIMMPYIII
Copy link

WIMMPYIII commented Nov 15, 2022

Hello All. I want to do a similar thing. To remove the starlink router, as i find it to limited in terms of configuration. Besides that, i want to be able to connect most equipment via cable.

One issue, i am unable to order the provided PoE injector, as amazon does not list it anymore for sale. Would the following one be a good option? (ps i can only order from Amazon spain due to my location).

its 90W output, and has a power supply integrated. A bit more€€€ but thats ok.

The idea is to put dishy V2 more or less 150 to 200 meters from my main house on a high support. The PoE injector will only be used for powering Dishy V2. No other devices.

I have for that a uws-litle-16-PoE switch and a edgerouterx. I am aware of the switching of the pairs to match up as well dishy and as well the PoE injector.

Trying to avoid bricking first connection of dishy ;) would be a shame after waiting so long... Thank you

EDIT: I have at the moment the following injector: 48V 0.5A 24W PoE adapter from tp-link (TL-POE4824G). Its a passive 1 GB injector If i can use this one, then it should be ok and i do not need to buy the more expensive mentioned.

There has to be less then 100 meters between each switch. So to get 200 meters you need an inline switch in the middle of your run.
This run will just be for getting data to your dishy. ( this can be done for several 100m jumps)
https://www.amazon.com/Cudy-POE15-Waterproof-1000Mbps%EF%BC%8C1-Wall-Mount/dp/B085S1R5NX/ref=sr_1_38?crid=2NZHHBO1DZL4U&keywords=PoE+Extender+outdoor+gigabit&qid=1666769394&sprefix=poe+extender+outdoor+gigabi%2Caps%2C195&sr=8-38&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840#customerReviews

You need to run power on a 2nd run of wire. ( I don't think cat6 wire is going to be good on more than 100 meters)
snip the end and tie in half the pairs to negative and half to positive on a power pack. (For 200m i think you would need proper DC awg 12 wire) and possibly a higher voltage then this listed below like 56v you would want to use a voltage calculator and also voltomenter the end before attempting to power it.
(If you can get AC power at the dishy end you could run the stock router in bypass mode in an enclosure and just do the above for data to a router into the house)
https://www.amazon.com/Reolink-Adapter-Compatible-RLN16-410-RLN8-410/dp/B07WL7R26Z

You will need this at the dishy side
Option 1 (needs pins set properly) https://www.ispsupplies.com/McCown-Technology-Corporation-800-GIGE-POE
Option 2 (needs an enclosure) https://dishypowa.com/

Sign up for free to join this conversation on GitHub. Already have an account? Sign in to comment